Best club dayyy is!!

Grats!

Just got done finishing up my Taxi playfield swap, turned out great. I’ll be posting a for sale for an original Marilyn used unpopulated playfield soon if someone is interested in a restore as CPR playfields are tough to come by.

B5DF7CE6-AF27-4BA6-A2D2-C3F43ACFA253 (resized).jpeg

F409EAE7-C6BD-4568-A263-C6CB6E9080C2 (resized).jpeg

EFB25FF5-DEB8-4C01-9DBC-2C268F5ACD5B (resized).jpeg

60E15AA6-8C4C-44C6-8FF3-C674C78C0E7B (resized).jpeg

Looks great! How was the swap? Any components that were misplaced on the new PF or did things line up?

Everything lined up nicely, small tweek at the Gorbie hole. The spin out ramp now goes around 4x’s with a full plunge. Really brings out the fun factor, I was lucky to get a 25,000 x1 25% of the time.

Here are some pictures of the original Marilyn playfield I pulled from my game before the playfield swap, shoot me a pm if anyone is interested in buying this playfield. It has Mylar that could be removed from the bottom half of playfield, could be used for a restore or sand it down for a hardtop application or use it as wall art.

66694C15-EA64-4741-BD86-4497486EFF5F (resized).jpeg

CAE57E52-2673-46BD-94A8-C659A2EAD6A1 (resized).jpeg

F539B562-699E-4431-BEF3-37EC5886D288 (resized).jpeg

55D783A6-E15A-49DB-9E0D-D78806F30397 (resized).jpeg

864B97A3-3BA9-4BC4-96A2-3CBAC03E342B (resized).jpeg

73D3F936-CC53-4878-AF10-FC7D6A4E6DAF (resized).jpeg

Taxi help requested: although good news is we got the bell working!
- all pop bumpers are dead, nothing during game or coil test.
-F3 fuse blows at power up, which is for these unless I'm mistaken
-everything else is functional, save the knocker which is missing.

Going through the thread here, I was going to start with replacing Q73,75,77 transistors. Bumper assemblies all appear in good physical order. No binding etc.
I remember mention of fusing the bumpers individually as a precaution, was going to do that to under the playfield.

Any other things I should be checking here?

Wow! 4x is incredible. I'd like mine to go through twice and I'd be happy.

If anyone has a Taxi Cab plastic, the long one that fits across the plunger lane - my new one just cracked in two!!

Looking for a CPR Marilyn back glass for my upcoming restore project. Let me know if you have one to sell or know where I can order one.

So ordering the necessary parts to fix the boards and coils in case one is shorted. Before doing so, can a Taxi owner help me out with the following?
1. picture of bell wiring, as it is working, but looks like it was fixed creatively
2. picture of pop bumper wiring and what diodes etc are on that switch if you know.

Want to get this operating on the first crack hopefully.

Thank you!

Ok, so I am thinking of joining your fine club. Currently own some EM’s , a Blackout and STLE ; a real mix of styles so why not a System 11 right? What are the top three things I should look out for before buying and /or do to this pin to improve it?
Thanks a lot!

I just installed a Hardtop, and it plays fast and super smooth. I highly recommend it to anyone with a lost cause playfield; or anyone who wants a perfect playing Taxi. Kudos to Outside Edge!4C978E3D-756A-4EBD-9EDE-AEF1CFEDFAEF (resized).jpeg

95C118F7-8177-4E74-8200-2ABF1F22882D (resized).jpeg

3893014F-DD3E-4FE4-A594-4A945CE1E43F (resized).jpeg

054EF3EC-EC40-46A1-A0D3-F27CB18DDD86 (resized).jpeg

I've got one for you. Shoot me a pm.

sawbill - looks fantastic!! Do these stick onto the pf? Great idea to produce these, so much easier to restore!!!!

-Nate

Looks fantastic!

Volkdrive
I hope these help. The diodes should be 1n4004.

C0D5DA89-FBE3-414D-867A-162AD34373B1 (resized).jpeg

B540357A-4503-4C32-87BC-92FC6723ACE9 (resized).jpeg

21148582-738B-4D87-B7C4-595B52B063D0 (resized).jpeg

Yes, that will get us going for sure. It’s the first machine a buddy from work bought and the pops are dead so we will be starting with the drive trans on board and go from there. Just want to have a good reference so we can get it up and running. Thanks again

The spoon switch has a 22uF capacitor and a 100ohm resistor out of view in the pictures above.

I've found this a useful reference in the past: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Special_solenoid_problems

Haha, Santa lost his head on mine!

Ok, so had a tech come to the house for my pop bumper issue ( kept blowing the fuse right from start up), I’m trying to remember what he said the problem was. I think was not getting power to release? (I could be way off.) the solution though was to jumper the front bumper to one of the others. Has anyone seen this? He also said it’s a problem in the board, but hoping by describing the solution he put in place it might help someone know what’s going on. Can take a pic.

Sounds like the bumper was getting locked on because of a board issue and he just hacked it so two bumpers fire at the same time if either is triggered.

Anybody have a part number for the spring on the ball gate at the rear left of the playfield?

That doesn't sound like a solution at all. Might be time for a better solution to your tech problem...

Get a better tech. The board issue could be a little bit to chase down if it's in the logic, but most likely a shorted transistor. A long as there's not corrosion on your board it's pretty straight forward to fix.

Here is the spring used on ball gates:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3661

10-194 spring 2 1/8" long

Thanks.

Great work mate, looks great!!

I’ve just a complete rebuild like yourself, new cpr, plastics, ramps, redecalled cab, the works. I’ve put LEDs throughout but am disappointed with the warm white in the Marilyn, Drac, Santa etc insets. Yours like great, what colour bulb are they?

Also, the Drac catapult is now all over the shop. It throws balls into the side, out of the plastic ramp and sometimes falls the wrong way down the Departure Ramp. Any chance you have any close up photos of this ramp? I have a feeling they may have been bent.

Thanks

Right, that’s what’s happening. He is the first guy I had brought out to look, I have been figuring things out myself more on the Space Station I have as until recently the taxi was fine. (That’s what I get for cleaning and waxing.). But I also just learned about how to check continuity, so maybe I’ll start there and work my way back just to confirm it’s something in the board. (They guy said he did that already but I need the practice and like to confirm anyway.) where from the board do the bumper lines start?

I had it wrong, looks like the pop bumpers are fine, it is the flipper he jumped from one to the other. I think it is the right dflipper that is connected to the pop bumpers correct?

Also, new issue that started my third game in tonight ... the drop targets for pinbot don’t reset? Once down they don’t come up at all, not during the game, not during the solenoid test. I don’t see any obvious connection problems. Where does this run through? I also need to look up the fuse, but they all look fine, and Lola still works.

Hmm, no continuity between the solonoid connectors of the pinbot drop target. I appear to have it on the yellow-purple side, but I don’t see where the brown with blue line runs to, but as there is no read between each tab on the solonoid that has to be the break.

How do solonoid work? Is it running any way through the optos board next to it?

Newbie to the pin scene and my first pin I now own it taxi. I had to replace a flipper sleeve today and after replacing it and powering it back up the machine defaulted back to factory settings. Not a big deal but I cannot get it back to free play. I hit the advance switch and it goes to the music test and will got go any further in the options. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

The switch in the middle is depressed. Two of your buttons are just push buttons but the middle one is a two way switch. Push it to release and then enter the menu again

Of course factory settings restored usually means the batteries are dead. You should replace those if you haven’t already

I understand the switch concept but when I press the advance button it only advances to the first test which is the music test and will not advance to any other audit or test modes.

It will only go to music test if the middle switch is depressed. If the middle switch is released it will go first into audits and then adjustments which is where you need to be in order to set it to free play.

The auto/manual up/down button is a bit weird because it does more than one thing.

Auto/up is when the button is not clicked in, manual/down is when the button is clicked in

From attract mode, if you press advance, the auto/up/manual/down button selects what mode to go in to:
- auto/up will go to audits and adjustments
- manual/down will go to diag test

In audits and adjustments when you press advance with:
- it set to up will go to the next audit or adjustment
- it set to down will go to the previous audit of adjustment
- start button changes the adjustment
- you exit by advancing UP past the end of the adjustments. Going down past the start just loops to the end.

In diag test:
- press adv to move to the next test - you cannot move to another test unless the middle button is in auto/up/unclicked as you cannot go backwards (down) through the tests
- press manual/down to start repeatedly testing something. eg in the coil test, if you activate manual/down, the currently tested coil will repeatedly fire until auto/up is pressed.
- Start button steps through some tests (like lamps). If you advance through all the tests you will get to audits and adjustments mode as above.

As an example, say I want to set free play:
- In attract mode I put the middle button in the auto/up (unclicked) position.
- advance will enter audits and adjustments
- advance repeatedly to get to the adjustment I want to change
- If I go past it, manual/down and then adv to go backwards to the adjustment I want
- start to change the value
- auto/up position and then advance through all the remaining adjustments
- game should boot back to attract mode

Another example, I want to test a single bulb in the lamp test:
- In attract mode, I put the middle button in manual/down clicked in position
- advance
- auto/up
- adv to the relevant test
- start button a lot to walk through the bulbs
- adv to get to audit and adjustment mode

Quickest way out of audits and adjustments from the first one is to jump to the end then go up once.
- manual/down (clicked)
- adv to get to the last adjustment
- auto/up (unclicked)
- adv to return to attract mode

Clear as mud, no?

That’s the long versions for sure lol. To summarize...

Click the middle button once and then re-enter the menu.

Yeah, that one got away from me... Type type type... post... shit it's a book.

thanks guys!

Anybody looking for a cpr backglass? I was going to hang it, but would rather have it go in a game. ***SPOKEN FOR***

Scott

Pm sent

Nice!
I'm very happy with mine.

I need to get the newest ROM in the Marilyn version. What's the best way to do this?

I just did my first crimp job on an idc connector. Got a deal on the crimp tool and then got the courage learn to do this from now on. The connector that runs half of the back box lighting was burned. Easier than I thought it would be, don’t know what I was afraid of??? Haha

I also fixed my Pinbot drop targets ... optos just needed to be cleaned. Phew

I’m looking at the schematics, which connector controls the GI for the sling on the right side?

The only way I know to check which string controls which bulb is to peek under the playfield and look at the wires on the socket.

Those wires come back up to the lower right side of the interconnect board. From memory Playfield GI is printed on the board.

Man, you did it again ajfclark, following the wires I got to the transformer(?) board on the bottom right side under the playfield. There were some cracked solder joints on the connector down there. Reflowed solder (pumped I know what it means and how to do that now haha) and boom! All lights working! So much more light! The right sling was out, the lighting under the blue dividers by the C-A-B were out along with the under ramp lights. Instantly fixed!

I should take a picture of my plastics on the slings, I’m noticing everyone else has blue triangles. Mine probably came from another game, yet I kind of like them!

You mean a relay board? Yes, those things seem to have a habit of cracking their solder joints. eg. check the pads of the relay itself in the middle of the board:
pasted_image (resized).png

Yeah, that thing, works great now!

And that picture is interesting... on my Space Station, I had 3 lights out on the middle inserts. Saw some cracked solder joints on that connector too, so reflowed, and 2 of the 3 are going. The 3rd though, I can faintly see some light coming to it, so with that picture I’m wondering if I should look at the non connector things like that?

I’ve had my Taxi for about 4 months now, and i only recently noticed I have different plastics on my left and right slings than everybody else. I thought the news guy was on purpose, and the green kind of goes with other green on the playfield haha. Had no idea what the other guy was for on the right, but it’s a world where pinbot needs a taxi ride, so didn’t question it lol.

155E5126-30D3-4953-9289-7F4E47FCCF32 (resized).jpeg

Lol. Yeah in a world where Gorbie shares a cab with Santa, who cares right!

But they should be just plain ol blue.