Delivering it to my friend who does the touch up/paint and clear.

I wish I had someone local to do mine.

I am working on restoring a Taxi. Does anyone know the color codes for the cabinet paint?

Thanks

Full repaint of the cabinet then decals.

Anyone have success getting a decent match w rattle cans?

Anyone have a extra jackpot decal (the one that looks like a taxi limo that goes above Gorbie) and the "1" cone decal (goes below Express Lane 1) they don't need and are willing to sell me?

I mucked up mine and hate to have to buy a whole new decal set ($60 with shipping) for just these two decals.

Or should I post a WTB ad for these?

Thanks for any help fellow Taxi club members.

Hey guys! Just joined the club yesterday. Got a fairly beat up taxi. I can live with the playfield wear around the bumpers and a couple nicks in the cabinet. But all the plastics in my game seem to be warped like it was sitting in direct sunlight or something? The colors are good and not faded but every plastic including ramps are warped.

Does anyone have a spare set of ramps and or plastics they would sell? Used is fine as long as they are usable. More interested in ramps than plastics as it makes the game super hard to play with bad ramps. Bad plastics just dont look good but the game plays fine with them.

I've had good success placing warped plastics in the oven on a clean cookie sheet at the lowest temp setting possible (around 180).
I just turn on the oven light and watch for a few minutes. They start to curl up at first, then eventually lay perfectly flat. Like the old Shrinky-Dinks toys. Also, I have both ramps, cracked but useable-PM me if you want some pics.
-Dave

Does anyone have a spare set of ramps and or plastics they would sell? Used is fine as long as they are usable. More interested in ramps than plastics as it makes the game super hard to play with bad ramps.

PM sent

I joined the club last week. Great condition Taxi overall but I would like to do some cabinet touch ups. If I figure out a good color code I'll post it.

I'm in.IMG_20150928_141154912.jpg

Congrats. Best system 11 of all time... and possibly the best pinball ever! (in my book)

*Update - I was talking to another friend and was told the Gorbie Gate opens via a coil when that shot is available which makes sense so we'll check out that coil.

Hello folks, the majority of the time the ball is rejected at the Gorbie shot on my friends Taxi at the 1-way Ball Gate Assembly that leads to Gorbies saucer hole. I took a brief video of it yesterday and it seemed as maybe the gate was opening the wrong way, but from looking at the manual it looks like its installed properly. I assume the ball goes under the gate itself?

Any feedback would be appreciated.. thanks!

Here's a generic code, but every game is going to be a little different from fade as far as touchups are concerned.

Taxi Yellow -

Behr Premium Plus Deep Base :3300 Semi Gloss, 1 quart
CLRNT OZ=384
C 0=86
KX 0=292
R 0=26
T 1=365

I recently joined the club! Man, what a fun game. I picked up a very nice Marilyn with clearcoated playfield. Thanks to Blackbeard for the lead. Bought from his friend in Buffalo. I spent top dollar, but worth every penny so far!

Question - does anyone know what size type of screws are used to secure the topper?

I'm in!
20151005_190016.jpg

Awesome solder! Great pin!

Hey guys my bell isnt working. Wanting to go do some troubleshooting on it tonight. I know that the bell is turned on in the adjustments and that it does not work in coil test either. The coil is there along with the switch and everything looks to be complete.

What would my trouble shooting order be? I have heard there is a fuse for the bell, does any one know which fuse on which board is directly related to the bell? If that fuse is still good what would my next steps be to hunt down the problem? Not really famillar with system 11's so im asking around before just jumping in.

Jason

There is no fuse specifically for the bell. Use a DMM to check for power at the bell (25VDC solenoid power). See if bell rings by grounding trigger wire BRN-GRN at the bell. It will either ring or it won't which will tell you which half of the circuit to check. If it rings, check solenoid driver circuit for solenoid 13 (Q15), if it doesn't the problem is local to the bell, check solenoid and disc capacitor.

thx for the reply. after looking at the schematic and figuring out it is a normally closed switch i figured out my problem because mine was in a normally open state. I bent one contact to touch the other and them i would get one ding from the bell which meant the solenoid is working but the switch is not. So after looking at it a little more i bent the "hammer" that hits the bell a little bit to make it so when the hammer went forward it would release the switch. This worked wonderfully. My bell now rings great.

Now im just waiting for some ramps in the mail from Bohdi. Thank you so much! My ramps are shot must have been left in direct sunlight or something because every plastic and ramp is warped really badly.

Ah thanks for this! Gonna run to Home Depot tomorrow

All this bell talk reminded me to attend to mine. Previous owner basically just snipped wires. Can anyone post photos of properly wired bell/switches/mechanism as a guide for rebuilding mine?

from the 'net:
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F49092976%40N02%2F4624110923%2F&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNHL142fIAC2phJD6VrfNTjr8sZxTw

Now i feel like a dummy - should've consulted the google.

i Just bought myself à taxi!
Only the pf is in very bad shape..
Would love to get my hands on à brand new cpr playfield.

Is there anybody who is willing to Sell me one? Would-be of Great help.

Hey guys, looking for a couple parts and hoping a pinsider can help.

I have a dreaded crack in the plastic above the Marilyn drop targets. Anyone know of or have an extra they could sell me?

Also wondering where I can find the little white plastic nuts that go over the some of the pf plastics?

Thanks for any help.

That drop target plastic is commonly cracked. Jeff at classic arcades sells them.

The plastic nuts are nylon nuts and can be purchased through pinball life or Marcos.

I also had the cracked plastic. Bought another online and replaced it, cracked that one 2 weeks later. I glued them back together and stacked them on top of one another. I guess what I am saying is you might want to make a clear plastic protector to install on top of the new replacement plastic.

Yes, definitely do that, I simply cut out a piece about a 1/2 inch larger than the original out of a juice bottle and placed it *below* the original, so that anything striking that plastic area is actually hitting the lip of my newly cut piece instead.........

Just joining the club and have a crap ton of work. Sound board is the only board in the back box. So I ordered a replacement MPU from rottendog and says I need the 2 ROM's and the microprocessor. In the manual it lists 2 sound and 2 game ROM's of the MPU. So I'm assuming I'll need all 5, right? Also the guy I'm getting the ROM's from wonders what microprocessor I need. He thinks a 6802. Can anyone confirm? Thanks

Yes, 6802. You'll need all 5 ICs.

Thanks so much wayout440!!

ok taxi owners, has anyone had issues with the catapult? I had mine on location and it blew q1 with the ball on the catapult. Q1 was melted right down. It was replaced but from what I know before I power it back up the catapult still did not fire. I am looking for the cause of the q1 before I go to far. board has burn from the q1 too. Any ideas will help alot.

Q1 has nothing at all to do with the solenoids. Q1 is for the sound section. Do you have sound?

As far as the catapult is concerned: If the mech is not jammed, coil ohms out ok, and coil diode is ok - the most likely place to look is the output section of the solenoid circuit for Q32. Usually the best thing to do is to replace the predriver when a driver transistor fails. Of course, it's hard to say exactly what the culprit is...not knowing board condition etc... and being a million miles away online.
So check out everything around the catapult, replace Q32 and Q28 - and your Q1

Aux driver board q1 looks on my schematic to be on j1 pin 6 for solenoid 3. Am I missing something?

No, you're not, I am ----forgot about the aux driver board on Taxi, my mind was on early system 11. I apologize. That would be the TIP36c 50VDC coil driving transistor Q1 that you are referring to. Q32 is the MPUs transistor that tells that Q1 to turn on. Sorry for the confusion.

I just joined the club! Unfortunately the jackpot display is bad. I got the Pinscore displays and now the jackpot only shows a few dimly lit segments. I swapped out the ribbon cable from my BK2K but same issue. Does any one have a clue where to look next?

Bad ribbon cable. I'm back in business!

Guys what's the cheapest source for new cabinet decals for this machine? You can hit me up by pm if you want. I have a Marilyn with a badly flaking cabinet and a Lola with a good cabinet.
Thanks !

Replaced q28 q32 and q1 and she runs like a champ.

Joined the club today with a Marilyn needing some love!

SCOTT

Hey - me again

Just wondering if anyone dumped tear down pics to somewhere like photobucket.

Im about to shop my Taxi and Im fairly certain Ive got a bunch of non-original parts.

CHEERS
SCOTT

I'm in the middle of something similar. I am certain i've got a lot of non-original parts. I hope somebody can come through!

Hi Guys. Just joined the club with a Marilyn!!!

Can someone please show me some pics of the wiring to both Flipper Mechanisms.

Kinda new to this and I dont want to mess up my new assemblies from PBL.

PRUE

This is the essential guide for rebuilding your flippers, very easy to follow: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Here is another thread with some photos: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-flipper-help

Looking an empty cabinet for a Taxi pinball if anyone has one they want to part with.

Thanks

Ok - HELP! I shorted out something in my lamp matrix, fooling around with a loose socket and light bulb for Marilyn, of course, the game was on and the socket touched some other metal and that's all it took to screw something up.

It looks like the whole column 4 in the lamp matrix is screwed up all the characters plus a few others. When I turn off the machine, Drac and Gorbie, along with the Ride Again light stay lit and then slowly fade out. I also noticed that the Santa light lights up at the start of the game and just stays on. It looks like those character lights are not blinking the way they should in attract mode.

I am stooopid with the electronics end. How do I find what is fried? Could it be the diodes that are attached to the lamp sockets?

I'm hoping there is no damage to the board - it looks like 1J6 controls this column.

I have a meter but don't know how to use it. Maybe someone can help walk me through this. I'm soooo bummed, I refurbished this Taxi and now caused a problem - I need to fix this before holidays and friends/family visit.

Thanks for your help ahead of time, I can move this to another thread or message me instead of hi-jacking the club listing here. I'll start a HELP! Taxi thread tonight as well.......

-Urgh, Nate-

Nate, the characters you listed are in column 4 and this is connector 1J7 pin 4 (not 1J6) Unfortunately, it appears you damaged the board circuitry. At minimum, probably the column driver transistor Q60 needs replaced. Hopefully, not more components upstream.

You can check the transistor as described in this guide:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
3b. When thing don't work: Checking Transistors/Coils (locked on coils)