(Topic ID: 51063)

Taxi blowing F4 fuse on driver board - SOLVED!

By treibj

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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#1 10 years ago

Hello,

My Taxi is blowing the F4 fuse on the driver board. I recently replaced the Driver board, MPU, and Power Supply with Rottendog and Pinballpcb.com boards.

I was able to play quite a few games before F4 blew and now it blows when I turn the game on. F4 goes to J11 on the Driver board so if I leave that unplugged it doesn't blow.

I have checked all of the coils and switches and none of them are stuck or binding.

Please let me know what I need to do to fix this, I am completely lost at this point since I know it's not a board issue.

Thanks,

Jeremy

#2 10 years ago

Get a meter, and check coils on that line, see if one is bad. You may have to remove the wire(s) from one lug to get an accurate reading.

LTG : )

#3 10 years ago

Do I do this with the power off? Also does it matter if the fuse at f4 is blown when I do theses tests? Lastly, what lug do I check and with what DMM setting?

Thanks Lloyd!

#4 10 years ago

Power OFF.

Set DMM to ohms, put one probe on one coil lug, put the other probe on the other coil lug.

You are looking for a shorted coil.

LTG : )

#5 10 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Power OFF.
Set DMM to ohms, put one probe on one coil lug, put the other probe on the other coil lug.
You are looking for a shorted coil.
LTG : )

I set my DMM to 2000k Ohm symbol. Each of the coils returned a 000 result on my DMM after I unsoldered the ground wire and tested each one. I'm trying to make sense of this manual but it's not happening. I'm not exactly sure what J11 controls, but it would have to be the items that are not working (both slingshots, eject catapult by Drac, kickout hole under the spinout skill shot, and both sets of drop targets).

Thanks for the help thus far Lloyd, any more suggestions?

#6 10 years ago

Coils still unhooked ?

Turn on and see if it blows the fuse, if not hook them back up one at a time until you hit the one that blows the fuse.

LTG : )

#7 10 years ago

Yes, and even with them all unhooked it still blows F4. There must be more that J11 controls but I can't figure it out by looking at the manual. I'm very confused.

#8 10 years ago

Get in touch with Jim at Rottendog and see what else you can unplug that is on F4.

LTG : )

#9 10 years ago

I posted this on the "other" forum and I got a reply that F4 through J11 controls J4,J5,J6, and J7 on the AUX Driver board.

I connected each (J4-7 on the AUX Driver board) until the fuse blew and my culprit was J6. I used the diode/continuity test on each pin and found that Pin 3 (free game knocker) was spiking. Unplugged the knocker and it plays right as rain. I'll replace the knocker coil down the road, it's low on my priority list.

Mystery solved, now off to play some Taxi!!!

photo(25).jpgphoto(25).jpg

8 months later
#10 10 years ago

This was a very helpful thread for me. My Taxi was doing the same exact thing and it too turned out to be the knocker.

#11 10 years ago

No lie, I just posted a thread about this same problem, but on my Big Guns. I wonder if it's the same problem...

#12 10 years ago

Classic pinball problem. Thanks for sharing. Everyone can learn from this. Why is it always the knocker?

#13 10 years ago

Welp, it's not the same problem, had the knocker disconnected and F4 it still blew out...

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from smokey_789:

Classic pinball problem. Thanks for sharing. Everyone can learn from this. Why is it always the knocker?

Just some guesses: The knocker gets more vibration from slamming the cabinet. It also tends to be ignored, being that it doesn't affect the ball - we notice right away if a sling or pop acts up. If it jams mechanically, it's not often noticed because of the infrequent triggering events (match/earning replays)

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