(Topic ID: 206891)

Taxi 2018 HEP

By High_End_Pins

6 years ago


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  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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There are 599 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 12.
#401 6 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Threaded like a needle through the hole.

Got it. Great idea

#402 6 years ago

This is such a good thread. This one is more of a manual than just documentation of work.

Marc

#403 6 years ago

I greatly appreciate your restoration threads. I have learned a lot. Now I just need the skill

#404 6 years ago

Working towards finishing the upper GI sections it will be a good time to address the burnt and hacked snubber board wiring as well.
This is what was pulled.
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This is where I want to tap the strands as a dual method of repairing them and of course gaining a source for my own wiring configuration. This is what I had left after cutting away the hacked snubber.
One yellow goes in one comes out same for the Violet although it will not provide a point for the white strands(and yellow and Violet)
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I would like a clean tap/ connector for the lamp board from up top which runs off the Yellow strand.
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I will go with a connection for this GI section of the Violet strand also as a way to much more cleanly join my newly run scheme together as they run a good distance apart now because I wanted to avoid sloppy close jumps in highly populated areas like the jet bumpers. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#405 6 years ago

First I desolder the burnt Pins and connector out of the board. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Next I identify and isolate the entry wires from the exit wires.
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#406 6 years ago

New wires are direct soldered to the board and then covered on the topside with hot glue.
This will insulate and reinforce them.
It might not be pretty as an individual item because it was pretty burnt at some point but it will be covered or camouflaged once in place and it is yet to be determined if it works. I don’t see these as bad often so I doubt and I do have spares if needed.

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#407 6 years ago

Now I can mount the board and route wires, make connectors. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Looks pretty confusing
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#408 6 years ago

For the incoming wires they are keyed so they cannot be connected to anything else and it is housed in a black connector to further identify.

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#409 6 years ago

Same type of keying is used but this is placed in a 3 pin housing for the exit wires.

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#410 6 years ago

A tap and connection is made for the topside GI lamp board.
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The two pin connector used is female on the pass through side because that is the only configuration that will easily pass through the small hole in the playfield.
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#411 6 years ago

The newly made Violet strand is joined together
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Then the Violet strand is tapped. I was able to create one of these off the snubber section repair/reconfigure but will need to find a clean place to tap the white Violet side elsewhere.
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The white sections do not pass through the relay so I can go back in the harness to tap it.
Clear tubing is used to protect better than shrink tubing. It is hidden within the harness and zip tied away from sight in a manner that will insure the tubing cannot slide off or really at all.

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#412 6 years ago

The tap is complete and the connection.

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#413 6 years ago

I can start placing the coil assemblies now as I continue to map out the wiring.
It is important at this stage so I can make sure my newly run strands do not get in the way of anything

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#414 6 years ago

As the assemblies are placed I am able to finish the GI sections
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In some areas added protection are needed like this because of the potential risk of the prop rod catching a wire.

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10
#415 6 years ago

Insane. I used to think HEP was all about cosmetic restoration, but now I've learned that you make the most rock-solid, maintainable, playable games that also happen to be beautiful.

#416 6 years ago

Almost finished placing the coils.
The catapult runs close to the side and it has a sharp edge on the bracket so clear tubing is used
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A hole is drilledimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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The switch wire is then anchored to the bracket with a zip tie. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#417 6 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Almost finished placing the coils.
The catapult runs close to the side and it has a sharp edge on the bracket so clear tubing is used

A hole is drilled

The switch wire is then anchored to the bracket with a zip tie.

BRILLIANT!!! Simple but extremely effective

Is the owner of this Taxi here on Pinside??? Would love to hear his/her opinions as they are watching this unfold.....

#418 6 years ago

As I run the solenoid harness I can start choosing connectors and pin out patterns that will either make things interchangeable or not interchangeable.
What does that mean?
It means I am making sure that certain parts and lines can never be plugged in wrong but others could if done on purpose for testing.
As an example these two kickers run close and could easily be confused if being serviced
One runs off the Yellow/Violet group
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The other off the brown group
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I am using three pin housings for both but I configure the plugs in a way where two things cannot happen.
The first is that the hot sides won’t ever connect and the second is that the coils will not work at all anyway if plugged incorrectly.
This is why the three pin is chosen on these assemblies.
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Another unknown challenge specific to this operation is keeping the wires out of harms way. That being Mavericks curious teeth image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#419 6 years ago

Good lookin' pup/apprentice.

Man's best right there.

#420 6 years ago

As I finish the connectors I zip tie and secure working my way up.
I try not to bury any plugs and leave them in plain sight where aI can.

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#421 6 years ago

The jet bumpers are placed on two pin housings and are interchangeable by design.

The color coded wire makes them specific and easy to identify but the ability to swap the connectors around can be advantageous if trying to troubleshoot later down the road.

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#422 6 years ago

Maverick is soo adorable! Awesome work as usual !

#423 6 years ago

With all the harnesses now in place and connections made I am ready to install the Flipper mechs. This placement is going to have a big impact on how smooth the transition will be from the inlane guide to the bat.
What is most ideal in this situation is to have a little extra adjustment but that is going to be limited most by how much wiggle room is built into the bushing/bat holes
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With the mechs just placed there I can get a feel for if I have enough room to work with within the holes as is or if I would be better off with a touch more.
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I find the holes leave very little room to dial in the placement of the mech so I will just slightly enlarge them.
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It is not much but it provides at least a little more room to play with.

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#424 6 years ago

Next looking from underneath I do my best to perfectly center the bushing in the holes.
This doesn’t mean anything it is just my preferred starting point. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Now I will put only two screws in opposite corners of each mech to simply hold it in place until I can better dial it in.
By using only two screws per right now I am insuring that I have a blank canvas of sorts to really secure it and adjust it later.

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#425 6 years ago

With all underside parts now in place and the wiring mostly tied up Iwill then start picking and placing loom locations and sizes.
Truth be told the wiring is so tight and well routed I do not really need any but it helps further complete the job.

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#426 6 years ago

#427 6 years ago

Looms are placed as needed.

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#428 6 years ago

Time to brand it
This is not as an exact science as I would like because different woods burn differently and some have a sealer on there but it makes for an undeniable marking nonetheless.

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#429 6 years ago

Keep that branding iron safe Chris. I would hate to see it fall into the wrong hands.

#430 6 years ago

I don't like the brand. It's just not very legible.

Rob

#431 6 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I don't like the brand. It's just not very legible.
Rob

Once the scar heals it’s pretty easy to read...

#432 6 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

I don't like the brand. It's just not very legible.
Rob

It is the company logo which is not an easy thing to pull off in too much detail with a branding iron.
How well it transfers varies depending on the wood and if it has sealer. If it has been sealed (like this Taxi pf)it smokes more and burns outside the lines but that can be sanded to get a cleaner look if desired.
The the real purpose of it is to permanently mark not impress though. It helps identify HEP games and the location can be changed at times to help further differentiate years and builds.

#433 6 years ago

All i know is that if im paying for a HEP restored playfield it better damn well have a brand on it that cannot be removed or replicated !!! Period !!!

#434 6 years ago

Now that the playfield is pretty much in order I can finish the cabinet build up and wire so I will have a place to put it.
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I am settling in on this Flipper button combination because it matches the artwork well and has a similar scheme to the W logo.
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#435 6 years ago

First I want to start placing the button switches.
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All were cleaned and polished then wired with correct combinations.

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#436 6 years ago

The lane change switches need to be angled in a way that doesn’t interfere with the button switch so I map that out and make dimples. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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The switch is then placed and adjusted. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I change the 1/4 hex that used to hold the switch to a Phillips set up because that is what the button switch uses and I do not want anyone to have to change tools or bits when working or adjusting this area since it is likely if you needed to work or remove one you may need to do the other also.
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#437 6 years ago

On the opposite side I flip the factory bracket so it will mirror the other side when placed.
By doing this I can measure the points off the previously installed side for a more symmetrical fit and look.

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#438 6 years ago

Now I can place the power box.
It needs to touch the braid to ground the housing.
Centering the plastic cover in the rear can be a bit of a pain solo.

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#439 6 years ago

Next is fitting the subwoofer
The one previously in place was too large to allow the playfield to come to rest properly.
On a game like Taxi the sub mounts directly to the floor.
I have some slightly lower profile speakers here on hand that should work well.

First I solder color correct wire direct to the terminals because I know there are some wiring issues from the previously installed speaker.
This will allow me to turn it straight as well. Then I place it roughly in place.
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After that I center it from underneath. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Now I can mark the screw holes back up top. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

A plastic grill is place instead of the metal one which was missing anyway. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#440 6 years ago

All boards are tested and serviced by Clive at The Coin Op Cauldron.

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#441 6 years ago

Ahhhh... I remember those pretty pink anti static bags.

Like Christmas morning when they arrive...

Great job HEP!

#442 6 years ago

Boards are being placed. Then I can finalize the wiring layout.
I will also place the LED OCD board at that time.

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#443 6 years ago

The wiring of the head is almost complete

I like to add more looms as needed and I do not mind it if they need to be screwed on at board mount locations.

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#444 6 years ago

Starting to neatly run the lower cabinet wiring.
I prefer the closed looms for that to best secure everything
It needs to dip low before the stop block for playfield clearance when raised then it can come up a bit.
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An open loom is used at the rearmost location just in case the wires get tight when the head is folded. If so that harness will just come out and give more slack. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
That is doubtful though because I have extended both the transformer GI and direct power portions.
The GI extension was covered during the previous post when it was reconfigured
The other connector was done by making an equally long pigtail. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
It makes the wires flow evenly and further reduces the risk of tugging on anything when folding the head down.
My goal is to make set up as easy and trouble free as possible in addition to the cleanest possible assembled look.

#445 6 years ago

Playfield is now set in cabinet.

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#446 6 years ago

All of that work and no NVRAM? Just curious why, very much enjoying this thread.

#447 6 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

All of that work and no NVRAM? Just curious why, very much enjoying this thread.

No specific reason on the NVRAM. I send the boards out and utilize whatever method is chosen by the service provider for memory retention.
As long as the batteries are off the boards I am happy.

#448 6 years ago

Heading towards the first power up.
The game came in with a unique speaker set up.
It didn’t look bad there was some effort put into setting it up.
So much so that the actual wooden display panel pretty much requires sticking with it or replacement so I will clean the install up and reuse it.

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#449 6 years ago

The right side was enlarged to accommodate the speakers used soI will go from there and install t nuts like the left. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
T nuts are installed

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#450 6 years ago

Panel is blacked out.
Speakers installed
Speakers wired.

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