Quoted from High_End_Pins:Threaded like a needle through the hole.
Got it. Great idea
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Threaded like a needle through the hole.
Got it. Great idea
Working towards finishing the upper GI sections it will be a good time to address the burnt and hacked snubber board wiring as well.
This is what was pulled.
image (resized).jpg
This is where I want to tap the strands as a dual method of repairing them and of course gaining a source for my own wiring configuration. This is what I had left after cutting away the hacked snubber.
One yellow goes in one comes out same for the Violet although it will not provide a point for the white strands(and yellow and Violet)
image (resized).jpg
I would like a clean tap/ connector for the lamp board from up top which runs off the Yellow strand.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
I will go with a connection for this GI section of the Violet strand also as a way to much more cleanly join my newly run scheme together as they run a good distance apart now because I wanted to avoid sloppy close jumps in highly populated areas like the jet bumpers. image (resized).jpg
New wires are direct soldered to the board and then covered on the topside with hot glue.
This will insulate and reinforce them.
It might not be pretty as an individual item because it was pretty burnt at some point but it will be covered or camouflaged once in place and it is yet to be determined if it works. I don’t see these as bad often so I doubt and I do have spares if needed.
The newly made Violet strand is joined together
image (resized).jpg
Then the Violet strand is tapped. I was able to create one of these off the snubber section repair/reconfigure but will need to find a clean place to tap the white Violet side elsewhere.
image (resized).jpg
The white sections do not pass through the relay so I can go back in the harness to tap it.
Clear tubing is used to protect better than shrink tubing. It is hidden within the harness and zip tied away from sight in a manner that will insure the tubing cannot slide off or really at all.
Insane. I used to think HEP was all about cosmetic restoration, but now I've learned that you make the most rock-solid, maintainable, playable games that also happen to be beautiful.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Almost finished placing the coils.
The catapult runs close to the side and it has a sharp edge on the bracket so clear tubing is usedA hole is drilled
The switch wire is then anchored to the bracket with a zip tie.
BRILLIANT!!! Simple but extremely effective
Is the owner of this Taxi here on Pinside??? Would love to hear his/her opinions as they are watching this unfold.....
As I run the solenoid harness I can start choosing connectors and pin out patterns that will either make things interchangeable or not interchangeable.
What does that mean?
It means I am making sure that certain parts and lines can never be plugged in wrong but others could if done on purpose for testing.
As an example these two kickers run close and could easily be confused if being serviced
One runs off the Yellow/Violet group
image (resized).jpg
The other off the brown group
image (resized).jpg
I am using three pin housings for both but I configure the plugs in a way where two things cannot happen.
The first is that the hot sides won’t ever connect and the second is that the coils will not work at all anyway if plugged incorrectly.
This is why the three pin is chosen on these assemblies.
image (resized).jpg
Another unknown challenge specific to this operation is keeping the wires out of harms way. That being Mavericks curious teeth image (resized).jpg
With all the harnesses now in place and connections made I am ready to install the Flipper mechs. This placement is going to have a big impact on how smooth the transition will be from the inlane guide to the bat.
What is most ideal in this situation is to have a little extra adjustment but that is going to be limited most by how much wiggle room is built into the bushing/bat holes
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
With the mechs just placed there I can get a feel for if I have enough room to work with within the holes as is or if I would be better off with a touch more.
image (resized).jpg
I find the holes leave very little room to dial in the placement of the mech so I will just slightly enlarge them.
image (resized).jpg
It is not much but it provides at least a little more room to play with.
Next looking from underneath I do my best to perfectly center the bushing in the holes.
This doesn’t mean anything it is just my preferred starting point. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Now I will put only two screws in opposite corners of each mech to simply hold it in place until I can better dial it in.
By using only two screws per right now I am insuring that I have a blank canvas of sorts to really secure it and adjust it later.
With all underside parts now in place and the wiring mostly tied up Iwill then start picking and placing loom locations and sizes.
Truth be told the wiring is so tight and well routed I do not really need any but it helps further complete the job.
Quoted from Rob_G:I don't like the brand. It's just not very legible.
Rob
Once the scar heals it’s pretty easy to read...
Quoted from Rob_G:I don't like the brand. It's just not very legible.
Rob
It is the company logo which is not an easy thing to pull off in too much detail with a branding iron.
How well it transfers varies depending on the wood and if it has sealer. If it has been sealed (like this Taxi pf)it smokes more and burns outside the lines but that can be sanded to get a cleaner look if desired.
The the real purpose of it is to permanently mark not impress though. It helps identify HEP games and the location can be changed at times to help further differentiate years and builds.
All i know is that if im paying for a HEP restored playfield it better damn well have a brand on it that cannot be removed or replicated !!! Period !!!
Now that the playfield is pretty much in order I can finish the cabinet build up and wire so I will have a place to put it.
image (resized).jpg
I am settling in on this Flipper button combination because it matches the artwork well and has a similar scheme to the W logo.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The lane change switches need to be angled in a way that doesn’t interfere with the button switch so I map that out and make dimples. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
The switch is then placed and adjusted. image (resized).jpg
I change the 1/4 hex that used to hold the switch to a Phillips set up because that is what the button switch uses and I do not want anyone to have to change tools or bits when working or adjusting this area since it is likely if you needed to work or remove one you may need to do the other also.
image (resized).jpg
Next is fitting the subwoofer
The one previously in place was too large to allow the playfield to come to rest properly.
On a game like Taxi the sub mounts directly to the floor.
I have some slightly lower profile speakers here on hand that should work well.
First I solder color correct wire direct to the terminals because I know there are some wiring issues from the previously installed speaker.
This will allow me to turn it straight as well. Then I place it roughly in place.
image (resized).jpg
After that I center it from underneath. image (resized).jpg
Now I can mark the screw holes back up top. image (resized).jpg
A plastic grill is place instead of the metal one which was missing anyway. image (resized).jpg
Ahhhh... I remember those pretty pink anti static bags.
Like Christmas morning when they arrive...
Great job HEP!
Starting to neatly run the lower cabinet wiring.
I prefer the closed looms for that to best secure everything
It needs to dip low before the stop block for playfield clearance when raised then it can come up a bit.
image (resized).jpg
An open loom is used at the rearmost location just in case the wires get tight when the head is folded. If so that harness will just come out and give more slack. image (resized).jpg
That is doubtful though because I have extended both the transformer GI and direct power portions.
The GI extension was covered during the previous post when it was reconfigured
The other connector was done by making an equally long pigtail. image (resized).jpg
It makes the wires flow evenly and further reduces the risk of tugging on anything when folding the head down.
My goal is to make set up as easy and trouble free as possible in addition to the cleanest possible assembled look.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:All of that work and no NVRAM? Just curious why, very much enjoying this thread.
No specific reason on the NVRAM. I send the boards out and utilize whatever method is chosen by the service provider for memory retention.
As long as the batteries are off the boards I am happy.
Heading towards the first power up.
The game came in with a unique speaker set up.
It didn’t look bad there was some effort put into setting it up.
So much so that the actual wooden display panel pretty much requires sticking with it or replacement so I will clean the install up and reuse it.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-2018-hep/page/9 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.