Hello all, hoping someone can help me out. I installed LEDs into my Elektra today. Looks great, however one issue. The top left green target switch is no longer registering. In self test it identifies it as one that is stuck on, but it has a gap. When I close the gap nothing registers or changes. Any ideas what could be happening?

My guess was perhaps I caused a loose connection/broken solder somewhere along the way but the other two targets connected to it function. I've attached pictures- it's the target on the left with the bright orange cap.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

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I'll check again for a short. Anything else it could be?

With regards to the capacitor, I figured it was wrong. Stuck out like a sore thumb. What sort of impact does having that wrong capacitor have? I can get one and swap it, just curious if any problems it may cause. I may have some other areas with wrong caps as well from a previous owner.

I've been running the switch test this way, still #21.

I'll check the rest and report back.

So I took another look at this (frustrating) target. Given the power on the grey/yellow wire is going across the jumpers to the other two targets, in my mind that wire can't be the issue. Within the switch, the leafs aren't touching or jumping. That leaves the brownish colored wire. Is there any straight forward way to test that wire for a short or continuity?

Does this logically make sense? Is there anything I'm taking into consideration that could be a possibility?

I did find one break in a ground wire for some GI that I fixed, but that didn't impact the target switch. Still #20.

I just tested continuity- just like the other switches, no continuity with power off between the three terminals. I also checked continuity on the leaves in the switch itself, no continuity there either.

I wasn't able to find any strands of wire anywhere- here are a couple more pics.

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Under that electrical tape, the wire just has a little knick in the coating exposing the wires. Do you think that's enough to cause the issue? The wires don't look frayed underneath.

Okay- so I've got an interesting update. First, I checked to make sure there was continuity from the pins that connect to J2 on the MPU for each wire that work with that switch (the grey w/ yellow and brownish one). They had continuity.

After checking for continuity again at the switch with the power on and comparing how the other switches function, sure enough that target has continuity through it with the power on when the others don't.

I removed the wires and components soldered onto the terminals and reattached them one at a time. What I learned is that one of the brown wires produces the symptoms. When the one brown wire touches anything- the switch, a lamp socket, a set of pliers, anything metal- it sets off the "switch 21 on" portion.

So my question to you all- what on earth does this mean? My guess is the problem is along that wire somewhere? Do I try to remove it from the wire harnesses and see if there is an issue somewhere along the way?

Looking forward to your responses. Sorry to drag this thing on.

I attached a schematic to help out. The wires in question are A4J2-3 (93 or grey w/ yellow) and A4J2-12 (60 or brown).

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When they are connected and floating they set off switch 21 as closed, but disconnected and floating all appear fine.

Can you eloaborate what you mean by this? My appears to be black and yellow and I'm unsure for what purpose you're having me look here, sorry.

I'll check the other locations for brown also.

I appreciate the help!

So I worked through the brown wire (60 or A4J2-12), interesting results (in my opinion). So I realized that as long as both wires weren't touching like I mentioned before, it wouldn't be falsely closed. If I only connected the brown wire from the MPU board to the 21 switches, it would work properly. Connecting the other wire connected the other switches. I repeated with each mentioned on the matrix for that wire (unsolder, connect one, test, resolder both, move on). The middle #1 target switch, right outlane switch, and #5 blue switch all functioned perfectly and gave no false closed signals for #21 as long as both wires weren't connected at the same time. The moment they were, #21 didn't work.

So that leaves me very confused since each switch functioned properly, but when they are all connected it doesn't like #21. That left me thinking two things
1) Is there anywhere else I should be tracing that wire to test?
2) On the schematic I showed, it looks like they all somewhat go to the solenoid expander relay. Given mine is temperamental at the moment, could that play an impact? I have a new one on order. Unplugging my solenoid expander didn't make any difference (not sure if that's the same as the 'relay').
3) Could it be an issue with my MPU board? I would really think/hope not because my board is new and looks perfect.

Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks again.

Well isn't that tricky.... I'll be sure to take a look tonight.

A special thanks to @quench. Sure enough, he secret second 21 switch was the one with an issue (capacitor bend onto a terminal). This would have been a much quicker fix had I realized there were a few switches like 21 that register in two areas. Thanks for the help, man!