(Topic ID: 7237)

Tales of the Arabian Nights - No power to table or DMD

By woofer768

11 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Cliffy
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 11 years ago

I have an Arabian nights that was working fine when it stopped booting up and gave the dreaded "check fuses F101 and f106" error. The fuses were not blown.

For this and other reasons I decided to replace the power driver board and had the MPU board, that was damaged, repaired.

When I powered up after I installed the new components I immediatly blew the main fuse in the power box under the playfield. The fuse looked old and rotten and I replaced it. When I tried again the table booted up perfectly and I played 2 balls. All was well. At the plunge of ball 3 everything stopped. No power to the table or DMD. The main fuse is all right and I have lights on the power board. When I try to boot the table now I get one beep and that is all.

If anyone has any ideas of where I check next it would help me a lot. I am getting smarter fast but not quite fast enough. Thanks in advance.

norman

#2 11 years ago

Besides checking fuses on the power driver board, next up I'd check the line filter coming in. See if it's blown.

LTG

#3 11 years ago

Check that the power cord going into the game in back hasn't come unplugged
If it has a metal cord cover simply remove the 4 screws holding it and this will allow you to plug and unplug the computer style plug.

Then, like Lloyd says, you may need to get into the power distribution box but obviously unplug the game first. If the game is a re-import it may have an incompatible metal oxide varistor or bad thermistor.

#4 11 years ago

Thanks for everything so far,

The line filter is the box on the floor of the table, isn't it? If so the fuse is good there and the components inside look new and perfect. I have checked all fuses (I think) and nothing is blown. I still have power to the back box, the boards in the box and the board under the table, but nothing to the DMD or lights on the table. I get one "bong" sound when I start up and that is all. On the Power driver board led104 and led105 are not lit and led203 on the MPU board is blinking fast. leds 201 and 202 are on. How do I check the Thermistor?

Not a clue.

Thanks,
norman

#5 11 years ago

For a start why don't you measure the voltage test points on the power driver board and report back here. That may provide clues as to what next.

They look like little stand up metal posts and are marked TP ( as in test point ) and have a number there too. 50V for 50 volts, 5V for 5 volts, etc.

LTG

#6 11 years ago

O.K. some strange voltages here. I do not know what "vp" or "vd" mean.

TP1 Should Be +12vp My Reading 14.02
TP6 SB +50v MR 75.1
TP7 SB +20v MR 22.18
TP3 SB +12vd MR 11.78
TP8 SB +18v MR 18.27
TP2 SB +5v MR 4.9

TP4 does not have a suggested value near it. it is not located where the others are. I get 39.98v there. All the leds on the driver board are now lit. They were not all lit before. Something very goofy is going on a TP6. Also, there is a bank of large diodes on the right side of the power driver board that appear to getting pretty hot. I do not know how hot they are supposed to get but I can feel them radiating.

Thanks a lot. This is fun... but depressing.

norman

#7 11 years ago

Problem has been isolated to the MPU board. The BLKING light is on all the time indicating, I am told, that the board is having trouble seeing the MPU. I am looking into it. Thanks for all the input here.

#8 11 years ago

TOTAN runs very hot. Do you notice any burnt connectors or areas on the board or capacitors on the board that need to be replaced? Did you repair the boards yourself or have someone else do it? If someone else did them then I would get in touch with them to see if they can't figure out what is going on.

#9 11 years ago

Worth mentioning, if you suspect a CPU issue you may want to re-seat it. It is best to use a PLCC extractor, but it can be done with very small screwdrivers. In fact, it does not even need to come all the way out, just a little wiggle on the pins can do it. Worth trying, keep us informed.

#10 11 years ago

Crazed has a very good tip and that has worked before. Just please do it with the game off The ASIC chip on this generation can work loose or lose connection and sometimes even just pushing it in can bring her back to life. I'm sure you've already pulled and reseated all the ribbon cables too which are also notorious for causing boot problems among other things. If these don't do it then we're on to the blanking circuit itself.

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