Fun moving a game in a modern era Jeep Wrangler
(Topic ID: 151383)
Salem, OR
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Picked up an early 1960's vintage Hobart 250A gas powered welder yesterday, just for the engine. They used a Willys L134 flathead in these, same as my old '47 CJ2A. Small differences - Intake manifold, distributor, head, carburetor are different - but the important stuff is same (block, crank, rods, pistons), plus on the industrial blocks the exhaust valve seats are hardened. It turns over nicely with the hand crank & feels like it has good compression.
Most of these old welders were low hours & are governed to max out at 1800RPM. I would wager that the internals are all standard size.
Quoted from dasvis:[quoted image][quoted image]
Picked up an early 1960's vintage Hobart 250A gas powered welder yesterday, just for the engine. They used a Willys L134 flathead in these, same as my old '47 CJ2A. Small differences - Intake manifold, distributor, head, carburetor are different - but the important stuff is same (block, crank, rods, pistons), plus on the industrial blocks the exhaust valve seats are hardened. It turns over nicely with the hand crank & feels like it has good compression.
Most of these old welders were low hours & are governed to max out at 1800RPM. I would wager that the internals are all standard size.
Cool, I like the way you think!
79’ CJ5 owner here at the beach in NC. Purchased as a project. Slowly getting it back together. It was a Golden Eagle at one point, not much left of it. Body was swapped to fiberglass which is good here minimizing future rust. I recently received an original front bumper I’m changing soon and taking all the aftermarket stuff off. Been looking for original rims to match the original gold ones but haven’t had much luck. 2nd CJ5 and 6th Jeep, not sure why I keep going back but it’s in my blood. Glad to be back in the club!
7E28E09B-CB73-4F59-9675-F07ECD2A3FEF (resized).jpegA90758B3-D208-4CA7-A9BC-CD0F52EEE697 (resized).jpegThere is a definite parallel between pins and jeeps... So many mods and tweaks and Easter eggs. I love this thing!
1 month later
I picked up another project yesterday -- 1953 Willys CJ3A. All the major parts are there, just missing engine. Good thing I picked up the old Hobart gas powered welder with the L134 engine last month. It's going to take a bit of wrenching, but that's the fun part.
As usual, I'm leaving the patina as it is... rust & all. Came with all new leaf springs, brakes, shocks, gas tank, tires with zero miles, & it sports a PTO drum winch up front!
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Quoted from dasvis:Wow- that's a lot of work! Factory bodies or replacement?
Replacements. I think that makes it a lot harder because. nothing. fits. properly.
Quoted from schudel5:Replacements. I think that makes it a lot harder because. nothing. fits. properly.
Yeah, that's what I hear. They say the new SGI bodies out of India are pretty decent. Pete Debella is the sole distributor in the USA.
3 months later
Quoted from dasvis:Got a rear locker kit & a Saturn overdrive setup for my '47. Debating getting a front locker as well.....
Let me know how the overdrive install goes. Do you plan on dropping the transmission to get better access to the PTO end? I've thought about an OD kit for my 45 2A but not sure if the mph or rpm gains are worth it. Good luck!
Okotoks, AB
Quoted from schudel5:Let me know how the overdrive install goes. Do you plan on dropping the transmission to get better access to the PTO end? I've thought about an OD kit for my 45 2A but not sure if the mph or rpm gains are worth it. Good luck!
From what I have heard from the guys on the CJ2A page, the overdrive is a pretty easy install as the jeep sits. Removal of trans tunnel & slight modification of it for the extra shifter of course. But everyone I have talked to that has one says it's way worth it.
12 forward gears & 4 in reverse = cool! You don't get a lot more top end speed, but a 25% reduction in engine RPM's will be welcome at 45MPH.
& really, do you want to go much faster than 50-ish in one of these anyway?
Hoping to get a spot in the Colorado fall color tour. Had one last year, but my daughter decided to get married that week...
Quoted from ls1chris:no 4xe owners here?
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Wifey loves her 4xe! Good to see another one representing. Red looks sharp
So I bought a small car to drive to work. I took advantage of a nice midwest day to start a refresh. My old trimmed stock fenders have flapped in the wind so much it ate the paint down. On amazon there is a fender and its cheap. here it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JC3HZZT
So it has the compression bolt tool. Cheap going to coat them and where the fenders attach.
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1 month later
picked up a locker kit for the Dana 25 front differential on my '47 CJ2A to pair with the rear locker I had already bought.
Now all that remains is installing them.... Planning on swapping out my old well worn Bendix type front axles for the Spicer type when funds allow.
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Got the overdrive installed on my '47 CJ2A... still need to do a little more heating & bending on the OD shift lever & transfer case levers, but test drive went fine. 25% reduction makes a HUGE difference... before at 45mph the little L134 was just screaming, now it purrs along at a comfortable level.
Not going to gain much in top speed as it only has 60hp to push it along.
Quoted from dasvis:[quoted image][quoted image]
Got the overdrive installed on my '47 CJ2A... still need to do a little more heating & bending on the OD shift lever & transfer case levers, but test drive went fine. 25% reduction makes a HUGE difference... before at 45mph the little L134 was just screaming, now it purrs along at a comfortable level.
Not going to gain much in top speed as it only has 60hp to push it along.
You're making me want to do this now.
Quoted from schudel5:You're making me want to do this now.
It's $1000 +-, but worth it.
Even if just because it looks cool with four shift levers. 
Installation would be a LOT easier with the tub off. Getting the oddball lock washer & snap ring on the planetary gear is a bitch. I finally bought a little $26 wifi endoscope off of Amazon so I could see up in there to line things up. Worked like a charm.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9C6P5D
Quoted from dasvis:It's $1000 +-, but worth it.
Even if just because it looks cool with four shift levers.
Installation would be a LOT easier with the tub off. Getting the oddball lock washer & snap ring on the planetary gear is a bitch. I finally bought a little $26 wifi endoscope off of Amazon so I could see up in there to line things up. Worked like a charm.
amazon.com link »
Yeah I should have done it when I removed the PTO and set the tub on. I'd only have 3 levers on the floor (column shift).
So I take it you didn't remove the drive shafts and drop the transmission crossmember? I remember seeing that the washer and snap ring would be difficult. I have a Harbor Freight scope I bought years ago to check cylinder walls.
Quoted from schudel5:Yeah I should have done it when I removed the PTO and set the tub on. I'd only have 3 levers on the floor (column shift).
So I take it you didn't remove the drive shafts and drop the transmission crossmember? I remember seeing that the washer and snap ring would be difficult. I have a Harbor Freight scope I bought years ago to check cylinder walls.
No need to remove driveshafts or crossmember.
The overdrive just goes where the PTO would be mounted. It's pretty slick.
2 weeks later
Decided to add disc brakes to the front end on my '47. Wanted to keep it all stock but also want to live.
Had a guy pull out in front of me the other day & it was a little dicey with the marginal (at best) 9" drums. Did some research & went with the Geo Tracker setup & special custom caliper mounts by Brennan's garage. Install looks to be a fairly painless bolt-on with no permanent modifications so it is entirely reversable, plus it's cheap at about $244 all in. It appears that these will fit behind the stock 16" wheels with no spacers.
Rotors, pads, calipers, & brake hoses all came from Rock auto $169 shipped
Brennan's garage brackets $75 shipped https://brennans-garage.com/collections/frontpage/products/trackick-disc-brake-conversion-bracket
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With this setup you can retain the original single reservoir master cylinder - or if you want to upgrade to a bit safer, but more costly dual reservoir master kit you can go that route as well - about $250 http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/brakes/master-cylinder-kits/cj-applications.
For now I am keeping the original single master. Will post pics of install when I start on the project, just collecting parts now.
2 weeks later
Quoted from schudel5:You're making me want to do this now.
Well? Did you pull the trigger on the overdrive?
On another note, I decided that if I was going to have the brake backing plate & axle out anyway, it would be a great time to replace my well worn Bendix type axles. Ordered a pair of new Spicer style axles, bronze bushings, & inner axle seals from Summit.
Typical case of mission creep. Hell, if I'm in that deep & have the carrier out to install the locker I should replace the pinion & carrier bearings as well........ & so on & so forth.
Quoted from dasvis:Well? Did you pull the trigger on the overdrive?
I'm building another 2A with disc brakes. I just might put the overdrive kit on this one instead.
PXL_20230503_210521596 (resized).jpgPXL_20230503_210529030 (resized).jpgQuoted from schudel5:I'm building another 2A with disc brakes.
Looks like a little overkill on the brakes for something that weighs 2400#.... but it's going to STOP for sure!
Way, way better than the original 9" drums & those shitty manual adjusters.
Quoted from dasvis:Looks like a little overkill on the brakes for something that weighs 2400#.... but it's going to STOP for sure!
Way, way better than the original 9" drums & those shitty manual adjusters.
My father in law started this and wanted disc brakes. He just passed away, so I'm finishing up what he wanted. My drum brakes are marginal at best.
Quoted from schudel5:My drum brakes are marginal at best.
Agree, especially if you have never driven a all drum brake vehicle before. You learn quickly to go down long steep downhill grades in 2nd gear & keep the speed down. It's downright dicey if you are riding them much at all when you get to the bottom.
What are you doing for a master cylinder & proportioning valve? Keeping the original pedal setup or??
Quoted from dasvis:What are you doing for a master cylinder & proportioning valve? Keeping the original pedal setup or??
I have the standard master cylinder and a proportioning valve. I'll probably use the standard setup and mount the proportioning valve on the frame rail somewhere accessible.
Any of you Jeepheads good at diagnosing a P0300 on an ‘09 Wrangler JK or proficient at OBD JScan?
My wife’s Jeep/pin-hauler has a flashing check engine light. It has 99,900 miles so I started with replacing plugs, wires and coil. I suspect bad gas/water in the tank because it started after all those atmospheric rivers drenched us for weeks in SoCal but I realize P0300 could be ANYTHING!
I’d love to understand the OBD JScan so I know what to look for. Any tips?
Pictures of the Jeep in action for attention (and some cred 
)
We found that KISS machine while on a New Years road trip through the southwest. It spent a week riding in the back! More than once we’ve packed two machines in the back. And look how easily a Stern fits in there
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Took the '47 camping last weekend. Photo is of Summit lake, largest lake in Oregon with no maintained road access. 8 miles of steep rutted, rocky trail to get here.
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North shore of Crescent lake - that's a pumice beach, not sand.
Put 350 miles on the old girl over the four days we were there, only mechanical problem was the temp gauge died.
1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from dasvis:Don't forget to bolt the throttle linkage on the back of the block BEFORE the body goes on.
Are you running wheel spacers with the disc brakes?
Yep. I have the throttle linkage to bolt on as well as the coil bracket (which I've seen leak coolant). Still have a bit to do yet before running the engine.
Yes. Had to install 1.5" spacers to clear the calipers. It'll be interesting to see how it looks once the fenders and tub are on.
This is my 1953 CJ3A in progress- brakes just mocked up to test for clearances. I used Brennan garage's bracket kit to install Geo Tracker disc brakes. The fit is VERY impressive & it all installed with virtually no modifications. All I had to do was kiss the rotor stud holes with a 1/2" drill bit.
I may or may not need to run spacers & longer wheel studs, depending on which wheels I run. If I do I think it's going to just be little 1/4" shims.
Cant wait to try these out- those factory 9" drum brakes leave a bit to be desired.
Quoted from dasvis:[quoted image]
This is my 1953 CJ3A in progress- brakes just mocked up to test for clearances. I used Brennan garage's bracket kit to install Geo Tracker disc brakes. The fit is VERY impressive & it all installed with virtually no modifications. All I had to do was kiss the rotor stud holes with a 1/2" drill bit.
I may or may not need to run spacers & longer wheel studs, depending on which wheels I run. If I do I think it's going to just be little 1/4" shims.
Cant wait to try these out- those factory 9" drum brakes leave a bit to be desired.
I don't know whose kit was used got the discs on this one as they were already installed on the axles. I tried without spacers but there wasn't any clearance. Yours looks like the way to go. Any modifications with master cylinder or proportioning valve?
Quoted from dasvis:those factory 9" drum brakes leave a bit to be desired.
Indeed. Try crossing water with them then climbing a steep hill. lol.
Nice thing about the CJ-7 is it already has disc brakes. And we finally got some good rain last year.
Quoted from schudel5:I don't know whose kit was used got the discs on this one as they were already installed on the axles. I tried without spacers but there wasn't any clearance. Yours looks like the way to go. Any modifications with master cylinder or proportioning valve?
Several folks that have done this tracker brake upgrade have reported using the stock master cylinder. The only change is removing the residual check valve. They say it works fine once the valve is out, but I think I am going to add an adjustable proportioning valve to allow me to fine tune it a little.
Yes, the stock master is just a single circuit unit, but as long as they are maintained properly I am fine with it. They do offer a kit to upgrade to a dual circuit master & I may possibly upgrade at a later date.
If you want to go whole hog & do 4-wheel disc, the same bracket set will also work on the rear- but as light as these rigs are, I think that front disc is really all you need.
https://brennans-garage.com/
https://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/brakes/master-cylinder-kits
Quoted from o-din:Indeed. Try crossing water with them then climbing a steep hill. lol.
Nice thing about the CJ-7 is it already has disc brakes. And we finally got some good rain last year.
Yup. Been there, done that in my old 1970 Bronco. Had water up to the bottom of the brake & clutch pedals.
Once was enough. Wish I would have kept that Bronco... it was a pickup version with a 302, & zero options besides the engine. Not even a cutout for a radio. 4.11 gearing, 6.50-16 tires. It was an ex-county mosquito spray vehicle, low miles, zero rust, & uncut fenders.
What a great truck it was! Paid $1750 for it..... 1979 or 1980.
Jeep was a little late to the party with disc brakes. I think it was 1974. Can't remember exactly but it was easy upgrading older full size using Chevy parts that junk yards were full of. Been a long time, but I think I may have had to use Scout rotors and hubs for some of them. Don't remember exactly what I used for my '68 Bronco, but know I did it and it might have been similar.
That 48 CJ-2A I had remained stock and I had to pump the heck out of them with both feet on hills while trying to work the clutch and gas with my other two feet.
Quoted from schudel5:1946 Willys CJ2A build #4 is well underway. Added a Saturn overdrive to this one.
You will love the overdrive.. makes driving much nicer.
When I added my overdrive, I put in the specified 90w GL1 gear oil & found the shifting to be too stiff & was difficult to change gears. Did a little research & went with PENN GRADE 1 77296, Classic Multi-Purpose GL-4 Gear Oil SAE 80W-90. Says that - "it is designed to be used with “yellow” metallurgy (brass, bronze, copper) and other ‘soft’ metals used in synchronizers, bushings, thrust washers and other components typically found in classic manual transmissions and transaxles" -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009I9CAJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
As you know, you need to be careful on which gear lube that you use in the T84 & T90 transmissions- GL5 & most GL4 gear oils have additives that will eat away at the brass syncro rings & bushings used in these. Shifting with this gear oil is silky smooth.
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