(Topic ID: 230283)

TAFG Weak Right Flipper, Missing diode?


By jp1985

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 43 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

My right flipper has been pretty weak since I acquired the game which makes hitting the bear ramp harder than it should be. I have cleaned the flipper switches.

I think I may be missing a diode on the right flipper coil and have attached pictures incase someone can chime in on it, would this cause a weak flipper?

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#2 1 year ago

Yes. It should have two oriented like the other coil.

#3 1 year ago

Weak probably means the high power side isn't firing, just the hold.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Yes. It should have two oriented like the other coil.

Which diode should I order or should I just get a new coil that has them installed?

#5 1 year ago

1N4004 or 1N4007. Buy 100pcs as these are used everywhere and are dirt cheap.

The missing diode will have no effect on the power of the coil but it will prevent damage to the electronics in your machine.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Homepin:

1N4004 or 1N4007. Buy 100pcs as these are used everywhere and are dirt cheap.
The missing diode will have no effect on the power of the coil but it will prevent damage to the electronics in your machine.

Swamp eject #45 errors after a dozen games without seeing any ball not eject, possibly related?

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Homepin:

1N4004 or 1N4007. Buy 100pcs as these are used everywhere and are dirt cheap.
The missing diode will have no effect on the power of the coil but it will prevent damage to the electronics in your machine.

Cut the diodes off your WPC flipper coils and see if they noodle...

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from jp1985:

Swamp eject #45 errors after a dozen games without seeing any ball not eject, possibly related?

No. You have a switch that isn't registering in the swamp.

#9 1 year ago

Get a diode on there.

Clean the optos on the flipper button opto boards.

If that doesn't do it. Remove the coil stop, slide coil off. Check if the end of the plunger has a sharp edge or is mushroomed. If so time to rebuild the flipper. I'd do them all then so your game plays like new.

LTG : )

#10 1 year ago

I cleaned optos and still having the same issue. I haven't added the diode yet. What do you think of these pictures? Do I need a rebuild?

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#11 1 year ago

No looks good how is the stop?

#12 1 year ago

Red arrow - dirty and worn. White arrow - what the heck is that ?. Yellow arrow - end looks okay, where arrow points is that sharp ?

LTG : )

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#13 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Red arrow - dirty and worn. White arrow - what the heck is that ?. Yellow arrow - end looks okay, where arrow points is that sharp ?
LTG : )
[quoted image][quoted image]

The white arrow is a hole, not sure if it should be there or not it's like that on both flippers.

Red arrow doesn't feel sharp, picture attached.

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#14 1 year ago
Quoted from jp1985:

The white arrow is a hole,

Not the hole, the round brown thing that looks glued on.

LTG : )

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not the hole, the round brown thing that looks glued on.
LTG : )

The thing my allen wrench is in is a hole in the metal. Is there something else I'm missing?

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#16 1 year ago
Quoted from jp1985:

The thing my allen wrench is in is a hole in the metal. Is there something else I'm missing?

No, my mistake. Sorry.

LTG : )

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

No looks good how is the stop?

It seems ok.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, my mistake. Sorry.
LTG : )

After you mentioned it I thought it looked like a piece of card board and took it apart again to verify. It's an optical illusion.

#19 1 year ago

Replace the bushing? Make sure the flipper shaft is totally smooth.

#20 1 year ago

Uh...diode?

#21 1 year ago

Alright so I’m buying a flipper rebuild kit and some diodes, anything else?

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from jp1985:

anything else?

Nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in. Not usually included in rebuild kits.

LTG : )

#23 1 year ago

Just ordered everything, I appreciate all the help and glad I can learn from the pros. Thanks everyone.

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in. Not usually included in rebuild kits.
LTG : )

This one does.

http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildk/kt-wflip-06.jpg

#25 1 year ago

I added the diode and did a full rebuild on that flipper and still have the same issue

Any other ideas?

#26 1 year ago

Just an idea, but maybe they wired the coil up incorrectly? Is the power wire on the correct lug?

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from inhomearcades:

Just an idea, but maybe they wired the coil up incorrectly? Is the power wire on the correct lug?

What do you think? I didn't change the wiring other than adding the diode.

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#28 1 year ago

You're still missing a diode.

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

You're still missing a diode.

That was the old pic, I have since added it.

#30 1 year ago

show us a pic with the new diode wired in

#31 1 year ago

I don't have a 1/10 the experience of folks on this board, but for the flippers I've worked on, the leaf switch should be normally closed so both coils energize at first. In other words, when the flipper is at rest, the switch parts touch. When the flipper is held up, the leaf switch opens, turning off the main (more powerful coil) and just the "hold" coil is energized. You still need both those diodes to protect the circuit boards from reverse current spikes when the coils shut down, but I don't think that's what's causing the weak flipper. In fact, for the flippers I'm familiar with, it looks like the leaf switch has been incorrectly installed.

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from gpmike:

I don't have a 1/10 the experience of folks on this board, but for the flippers I've worked on, the leaf switch should be normally closed so both coils energize at first.

That is on older games. This is a Williams fliptronics game. EOS leaf blade switch is open when the flipper is at rest. Closes when the flipper is energized and going up.

LTG : )

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

show us a pic with the new diode wired in

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#34 1 year ago

Can't tell but both diode bands face the same way right?

#35 1 year ago

OK, in your new pic if the bands on the diodes are facing right, the coil is wired correctly.

You should measure from ground to each coil lug 50-70 volts...whatever is correct, check the left flipper to verify.

Now if you connect a jumper from ground and quickly tap it on the coil lug with BLU/VIO wire (center lug), you should get a strong flip fire. Perform same test on left flipper to verify.

DO NOT leave the jumper connected for more than 1 second (just a quick tap).
Caution: it may emit a few sparks at contact, so don't have your face too close (wear eye protection).

NOTE: If this is the original coil that you have added the diode back, the other diode may be bad and in need of replacement.

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

OK, in your new pic if the bands on the diodes are facing right, the coil is wired correctly.
You should measure from ground to each coil lug 50-70 volts...whatever is correct, check the left flipper to verify.
Now if you connect a jumper from ground and quickly tap it on the coil lug with BLU/VIO wire (center lug), you should get a strong flip fire. Perform same test on left flipper to verify.
DO NOT leave the jumper connected for more than 1 second (just a quick tap).
Caution: it may emit a few sparks at contact, so don't have your face too close (wear eye protection).
NOTE: If this is the original coil that you have added the diode back, the other diode may be bad and in need of replacement.

The diode bands were both facing right and I replaced both for good measure. I'm getting between 60-70 on each lug on both sides.
I'll try to jumper in a few minutes.

#37 1 year ago

Both center lugs test exactly the same on the multimeter. I swapped the flipper optos to make sure that the right one wasn't defective and I still have a weaker right flipper.

One thing I did notice is that the stopper metal on the non coil side is bent (WILLIAMS/BALLY RIGHT STAKED FLIPPER BASE SUB ASSEMBLY), see attached picture. Could this be the whole issue?

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#38 1 year ago

Absolutely. That plate is supposed to be flat with a rubber plug in the hole. If it is allowing the plunger to be too far out of the coil, there is not enough metal there to be grabbed by the magnetic field.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

Absolutely. That plate is supposed to be flat with a rubber plug in the hole. If it is allowing the plunger to be too far out of the coil, there is not enough metal there to be grabbed by the magnetic field.

I think it is causing the plunger to be too far into the coil from start.

#40 1 year ago

I replaced the bent bracket and I'm still facing the same issue.

I've noticed the EOS switch is gapped wider on the left flipper which works properly, could this cause the problem?

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#41 1 year ago
Quoted from jp1985:

could this cause the problem?

No, if it wasn't there the game would ignore it.

LTG : )

#42 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, if it wasn't there the game would ignore it.
LTG : )

What else could it be? Coil?

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from jp1985:

What else could it be? Coil?

No idea beyond eliminating stuff.

I'd pull the flipper coil connector off the board in the head. And for each of the three wires. Measure ohms to see if one is drawing ohms and pulling current down.

From the flipper coil to the board, maybe a weak connection, solder joint, something.

Flipper bat isn't cracked and sapping power ?

LTG : )

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