Hey all I have some switch issues that I'm having trouble with. I was hoping you could help me figure out what is needed please. I'm not an expert but eager to learn and have some experience but not a lot.

BACKGROUND:
Last week I started to troubleshoot a THING opto issue first (Thing down opto S-84). At this time I was ONLY getting one thing error, S-84 thing down. I removed the hand to inspect the opto board, re-seated the connections and after I couldn't get the "down" opto to register during the thing test so I just ordered a new opto board (assuming I just had a bad opto..easy fix right). Yesterday the new opto board came in so I was eager to install it. I installed the new opto board and to my surprise, I still have the same issue. I made sure that the little arm was traveling all the way across the optos, it's aligned perfectly. I also checked for any loose wires and pushed down on everything firmly.

Tonight I wanted to try and troubleshoot this issue some more so I opened the top and made sure all the connectors were seated properly on the driver board and re-seated some of them. Still had the same one error, S-84 thing down. When I ran the THING test, the "DOWN [X]" would always show as if the switch was stuck on. Even when I un-plug the opto board and reset the game I get the same S-84 opto error.

I figured since I just replaced the opto board, the optos were not the issue so I could go ahead and install the thing hand again back on to the playfield as it is a big PIA to have to keep the playfield up and try and read the DMD. I installed the thing hand and now all of I sudden I was getting 2 errors on the thing... S-84 down opto and now S-85 up opto also.. How did that happen? :_( double checked all the connections, ended up taking the thing hand back out and still have both opto errors @ startup. I put the old opto board back on as a test and still get the S-85 error with that one also. These issues are definitely coming from somewhere else, not the opto board.

The strange thing now is that when I do a thing test, the UP opto actually tests fine..the down does not (same with the other opto board).

There are 2 others issues observed (in case there may be a relation)
@ startup I now get 3 errors in total
Bookcase opto #2
Thing down opto S-84
Thing up opto S-85
When doing a switch test, all of the cousin IT targets on the left are not working now either... there are 4 of them.

I didn't notice any blown fuses but I guess next stop would be to check them with a DMM or would you guys suggest I do something else first?

Thank you so much in advance!

Thank you for the reply sir.

I took some pictures of my connectors. As I was doing that I noticed a burned pin I didn't notice before. The connector is J121 and it's the last brown wire (what is that?). I think that connector is for lighting. I didn't notice any lights out.. hmm.. looks like I need a new connector. What are those called and what tool would I need to replace?

I don't think I have any connectors on backwards that I can see. Should I focus on a specific connector?

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I don't see any burn marks anywhere else. The 2 opto boards I have for the thing both look great no burn marks (one is brand new). I didn't take apart the bookcase but I can see a little bit from below the playfield and I didn't notice any burn marks there.

Would you say it is safe to assume the burned pin is not related to the opto issue?

I'm starting to think I have a driver board issue maybe (??)

Never really looked at that board. The one under the play field? According to the manual it is "Opto PCB switch assembly" A-14977 is that the same one?

If there's a chance this is the problem, I'll grab this one
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14977

I'm fine with sledgehammer approaches right now. I'm not good at soldiering and just want to get to the bottom of this issue even if it costs me.

Yes sir. I got the part number A-14977 straight from the TAF manual

Also on Great Plains, may I ask for confirmation:

Part Number 09-50-8111
or
Part Number CS156-11-LR

and for tools
Part Number 63813-3503 / Part Number 11-03-0016?

Oh wow, look at that! I think you're on to something.

Please forgive my lack of experience but how and where is this checked? I will check in the manual again I think I remember seeing the switch matrix somewhere in there.

Thank you sir! I was able to identify the yellow and white wire at the thing motor and also at the IT targets and I don't see a break in the wire. I checked to make sure the targets were not stuck in the "on" position. Looks good to me but I didn't take the bookcase apart. I did also notice I have a jet out, sure enough it is also on the same matrix line (center right jet)..

When you mentioned "all switches after (or included)" I am not sure if the thing and IT targets would be considered "after" the bookcase (center right jet is actually first..). I have to check the plumb bob tilt. Maybe I need to take the bookcase apart? I didn't notice a white and yellow wire going in there, it connects to the bookcase optos with a connector with different colors but I might be missing something also.

FYI - I ordered the switch matrix.. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14977 I am sure it was probably a costly mistake.. I figured it would at least be one more thing ruled out if it doesn't help. Could these issues also be the switch matrix?

FYI #2: Some good news, oddly thing opto switch UP S-85 error went away.. now I just have the same bookcase opto 2 and thing opto switch down S-84 errors. Does it matter if the error was in Parenthesis? S-85 was without and (S-84) has parenthesis around them.

Thank you

I just did a switch test for the plumb bob tilt and it is working.

I opened up the top and found J208/209 on the CPU board. I re-seated it (actually moved it from J208 to J209) and still had the same issue.

I figure I could always use the tool to push down on the wires also. I did order this tool "IDC Insertion Tool, 0.156", but the connector J208 connector is a little smaller. Do I need to order a different size tool for J208? Noob question, sorry.

oh and just read this, seems helpful:

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

" Note: Switch columns and rows are not wired in the same order as they are shown on the switch matrix. For example in column 6 the physical wire might go from "Left Ramp Enter" to "Thing Eject Lane" to "Train Wreck."
Note: On WPC games switch 24 is always closed (there actually is no switch) and the blocking diode is located on the coin door board.

Partial Row or Column Failure
The only way you can get a partial row or column failure is a wiring problem under the playfield. The switches before the problem will work and the switches after the problem will not work since they're daisy-chained. Use switch diagnostics while following the wire downstream and closing each switch (remember the manual will give you the wire color) until you find the point where the switches quit working.

Somewhere between the non-working switch and the last working switch the wire is broken or there's a bad connection. The usual problem is a wire has become broken at the solder joint on the switch, which can often look like it's still connected so you should gently tug any suspect wires. "

Hmmm.. so could I use a DMM continuity test or would that be sending voltage I shouldn't be sending?

Thank you so much for the reply. I have been busy with the little one and work so I will have to get to this when I can. The new opto switch board also came in, that should be pretty easy to swap out and test, I'll reply with the results.

To all reading this I hope you are having a great day

Update:

Good news! I was able to figure it out. No little one today so I was able to get some quality time with the switch matrix issue. It actually was a loose connection on the opto board connector. No errors now, game works great, thanks so much for everyone's help. I took the time to change some bulbs out. Next stop, some Carnuba wax after the cleaning it got.

Two more questions please:

(1) Is there a way to suppress the "pop" from the speaker when you turn on/off the game? I am thinking of installing my Rottendog driver board in this before I sell it. Think that would help?

(2) The connector I ordered doesn't seem to be the right one. I went to Great Plains and found Part Number CS156-11-LR but it isn't the same connector I am replacing. Could I please get some help identifying the correct connector and tool needed?

Thanks!

Just to refresh:
J121

I didn't get a reply so I just guessed. I ordered two of what I thought was the right one... both were wrong. I need more help please the pictures on that site aren't the best.

https://i1.pinside.com/9/c6/9c6ac38718ca3abf71733e49e316bdf1cbf2cc3a/resized/740/9c6ac38718ca3abf71733e49e316bdf1cbf2cc3a.jpg
https://i1.pinside.com/4/d5/4d5cdd36dca0cf233667f84925a3ed1059ab6ad5/resized/740/4d5cdd36dca0cf233667f84925a3ed1059ab6ad5.jpg

Ok.. thank you very much. I already purchased CS156-11-LR so I guess I did get the right one. What it seems I am missing is the pins that go with it and the crimper. I looked up the crimper and it is $110 for the crimper? EDIT: I see another one for $28...

The original connector is a different style. Can you (anyone) recommend the same style where I just lay the wire across the connector and push it down and it bites into the wire? Like the stock connectors? Seems this is going to be more costly.

Thanks I have a new driver board I am installing so I don't need to worry about the pin on the board (at this time).

I could be missing something.. but that link looks to me like the same connector I already bought where I would need to insert pins into it. The one I am looking for is the one shown in the picture. Do they still make these? It looks so simple.. put the wire on and push down with the tool, no?

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Hmm.. How about these?

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1607 (I'll just trim one off to make it 11)
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1590

That would be like a $10 fix
Approve?

Thanks for your help, just ordered them up. Bought a new coin door too, I just don't like the one from it's arcade days. It's like a pretty woman with a beard lol Gotta clean'r up. Seems like any easy swap.

Yup, that's the one.

Got some new goodies in the mail. Will update with new pics this weekend if anyone wants to see the progress.

Updated pics here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-addams-family-3#post-4341533