Addams Family, The
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Quoted from JohnnyPhantom:Do you mean the kick out solenoid is getting stuck in the hole? if so, that's not the case, the plunger moves freely up and down, and when i power the machine, I can hear the knock and see that solenoid push its plunger up, and hold it there, and buzzes. When I power it off, it goes back down.
Have you checked your transistors/wiring?
Transistor may be fried, creating a path to ground for the coil power voltages.
Quoted from JohnnyPhantom:Curious, I read someplace that if i touch the top of the transistor with one probe on my MM and then the other probe to ground with the diode test, if it beeps its shorted.
If you jumper the tab to ground, your coil will fire - if it isn't already firing, of course.
Quoted from JohnnyPhantom:At thr moment Im thinking its the ls374 IC, looking up ways to test it
Why? Is the transistor's base grounded when you turn the game on?
I would disconnect the wire harness that feeds the driver (NOT power) for the coil.
If the coil fires when you turn the game on, then your problem is in the wiring. If the coil does NOT pop on when you power on the game, then the issue is in the PDB, yeaup.
The manual is your friend. 
According to the inside cover of the manual, the 'Thing Eject Hole' is J122-2. So, unplug J122.
By unplugging J122, you will lose the Thing Motor', 'Thing Eject Hole', 'Bookcase Motor', and the 'Swamp Release' coils. But that is okay. By unplugging it, you are separating the PDB from the field wiring. You're breaking a *possible*connection to ground via a shorted transistor or stuck driver. The coil will still be getting it's power -
Well, f*ck. Nevermind. Just looked at the coil wiring (see page 3-9 of the manual) - and the coils get both power AND driver fro mthe same plug - J122.
NORMALLY, with the coil still getting power, if the wiring was shorted (bad insulation rubbing against a mechanism, for example) the coil would still turn on when you turn the game on. However, in this case, we're cutting both the power and driver - so no matter what, the coil won't turn on because it's not getting any power.
So, have to do this test a different way: Disconnect J122. Put your meter on continuity (beep) mode. Place one lead on the SMALL wire leading to the kickout coil, and place the other lead on a ground braid. If you have a beep, then there's a short in the wiring. (The results of this test are the same as my discussion above - just it's usually a lot easier to just unplug the harness and turn the game on. But we can't here, so.. we have to do it this way.)
Quoted from JohnnyPhantom:Just wanna make sure i do it exactlt how you want me too, when you say small wire, do you mean on the j122 connector (unplugged) or right on the coil itself, im gonna drive back to the house and try this
On the coil. Honestly, either will work - it's usually easier to work off the coil though.
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Oakdale, CA
Auckland, NZ