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(Topic ID: 207111)

TAF: set of "regular" incandescent lights? Want "spooky"


By eju201

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by pintechev
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Hi everyone,

Maybe this is heresy but the TAF I'm buying has a full set of LEDs and we really hate the look. Way too bright, way too cool-white and garish, and the colored lights are crystal-clear green and blue and red, like a cheap electronic toy. Plus it has mini-spotlights on the upper playfield that are like police flashlights. I know all of this wasn't inexpensive for the last owner. However I always loved this game for its "spookiness", and maybe part of that was the original lighting design? I guess I'm also used to the look from original-ish examples in arcades.

Am I crazy to pull out the LEDs and install old-school lamps? Is there some actual downside to incandescent lamps in a game that won't be on for more than a few hours at time, besides that I might have to change them occasionally? And I see loads of LED sets out there, but I can't find a complete set of incandescents with fool-proof instructions like "put this one here, put this one there".

Or is there an LED set that will offer the benefits of LEDs but respect and preserve the spookiness of the original lighting design?

(I think I'm gonna pull Uncle Fester off that chair too! I know, I'm crazy.)

Thanks!

#2 2 years ago

Nothing wrong with going back to incandescents at all.

LEDs are a very personal taste. You can buy warm white LEDs that aren't as bright and probably get the look you want, but why bother if you really like the look of incandescents.

#3 2 years ago

I prefer incandescent GI in my Frankenstein and BK--warm white LEDs do not compare IMO. Some games just don't work with LEDs for my taste, but for others I go crazy with the LEDs.

#4 2 years ago

Do what makes you happy. It’s your game!

#5 2 years ago

The game was designed with standard bulbs to begin with, and warm glowing filaments can almost be compared to candlelight flames - perfect for any "spooky" themed game".

#6 2 years ago

I know this is a different kind of heresy, but I wanted some of that same “spooky” effect and decided to try replacing some of the back GI bulbs in my TAF with purple LEDs. It really worked out well! The area is lit up enough but the throw of the purple bulbs is different and enhanced the artwork in a way I was really happy with. You may consider that too. I prefer not to use incandescents due to the additional power draw and to minimise maintenance, but sometimes you just gotta do it...

One other thing you can try is buying a GIOCD from Herg. You can dial down the brightness of your GI lights, and this may have the same effect. In addition, “showtime!” multiball looks INCREDIBLE, the way the GI dims properly, with no flicker as was intended all along

#7 2 years ago

I went with All Incandescent GI (above the playfield) and warm white LEDs below the playfield and in backbox. A good balance, classic looks with nice bright inserts.

#8 2 years ago

I think LEDs in WPC games are an unacceptable option, unless you plan on using the LEDOCD board. Dimming effects on the GI are completely butchered without it, but then people go to incredible lengths to craft their LEDs to emulate the look of incandescents. At that rate, you might as well stick with good old fashioned 44/47s. Cheaper that way too!

#9 2 years ago

GIOCD board is a MUST for Addams. If you’re running LEDs, get it!

#10 2 years ago

Wow, thank you all for your advice. markp99 I like your idea a ton. I don't yet have the machine so I don't know: are the bulbs below the playfield colored, or do they get their color exclusively from the inserts?

And to implement markp99 's idea, what's my shopping list please? I would love some specific info and happy to pay a supplier for a custom bulb kit just so I don't have to think too hard about what should go where! Once I have it for a while I'm sure I'll get my own ideas but to begin I'd like to start somewhere "known"

Also, I forgot about the dimming of the GI's for multiball, that's awesome. So I can only get that effect from incandescent GIs or else I need the LEDOCD board?

Thanks again everyone!

#11 2 years ago

It's your game. Make it how you like it. Lighting is all subjective. I love how leds brighten up a game and bring richer color to inserts. I get that some guys are more sensitive to the brightness and prefer a more stock look. I recommend trying out warm white led bulbs and see if that helps. They should match up better with the look of incandescent bulbs but brighter. Comet also has sunlight which is between cool and warm white.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from eju201:

Also, I forgot about the dimming of the GI's for multiball, that's awesome. So I can only get that effect from incandescent GIs or else I need the LEDOCD board?
Thanks again everyone!

YES. GIOCD. Also get an LEDOCD while you're at it. To clarify: there are TWO boards: LEDOCD and GIOCD. This is the kind of thing you have to see in person to really 'get' it. GIOCD isn't really a big deal on many games, but it is very important for TAF and TZ. (unless you decide just to do incandescents, and then stay away from these boards, they will blow your game!)

#13 2 years ago

Just a heads up.I found flicker LEDs from "nifty" and they really do justice when you put them all on "greed"IMHO

#14 2 years ago

Titan LEDs are not super bright and the warm ones are very close to incandescent. I recommend them as a replacement.

#15 2 years ago

Get that junk out of there for sure. You only have one set of eyes and don't want to go blind before your time. If possible, use original GE bulbs just like the factory did.

6a528da7f2925728c31b4b3a1b3ac82a506bc394 (resized).jpg

#16 2 years ago

TAF and TOM are the only two games that I left incandescent bulbs in the GI.

I still color matched the inserts under the playfield with LEDs - just be sure to get an LEDOCD board if you go this route.

#17 2 years ago

I bought an Addams a few weeks ago and its all LEDs... it really is bugging me that something doesn't feel right, and I think that's it.

I hate to go back to standard bulbs just because of the heat they throw onto inserts and paint, but still may do it. What's really annoying is they put super bright LEDs in the flashers and it's just blinding.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Get that junk out of there for sure. You only have one set of eyes and don't want to go blind before your time. If possible, use original GE bulbs just like the factory did.

Haha! I like your LEDs under the ramp though. I ended up doing that to the left ramp on Scared Stiff. Otherwise incandescent in all games.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Haha! I like your LEDs under the ramp though.

Can't sneak anything by you, can I?

#20 2 years ago

If you are worried about heat of incandescents, use 47 and 159 bulbs in place of 44 and 555 bulbs. They are the low powered versions.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

TAF and TOM are the only two games that I left incandescent bulbs in the GI.
I still color matched the inserts under the playfield with LEDs - just be sure to get an LEDOCD board if you go this route.

damonator what do you mean exactly by "color matched" please? Sounds like you have a good plan for your TAF and I'm interested in doing the same. A little nervous about installing a board of any kind, my other pins are all EMs, but I'm sure I can figure it out.

radium the LED flashers in my game currently are enough to make you fall over. those have to go first thing!

kevmad I'm not worried about the heat...should I be? The game will really only be on a few hours at a time.

Thanks again everyone! I'll be leaning on the pinside braintrust even more as I go, appreciate all the insight tremendously. Next you'll have to help me get over the playfield decal that must be covering magnet burn (it's actually a little piece of the decal just over the clouds, but it's not a great match for color in between the clouds...I would have cut the color parts out before installing it myself, but now I'm reluctant to mess with it...I'm holding my breath and learning to live with it until I break down and replace the playfield one day. I'll start a new thread on this when I get the game and begin obsessing...)

e

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

What's really annoying is they put super bright LEDs in the flashers and it's just blinding.

Some will put LED's everywhere except the flashers. Leave them incandescent.

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from eju201:

damonator what do you mean exactly by "color matched" please? Sounds like you have a good plan for your TAF and I'm interested in doing the same. A little nervous about installing a board of any kind, my other pins are all EMs, but I'm sure I can figure it out.
radium the LED flashers in my game currently are enough to make you fall over. those have to go first thing!
kevmad I'm not worried about the heat...should I be? The game will really only be on a few hours at a time.
Thanks again everyone! I'll be leaning on the pinside braintrust even more as I go, appreciate all the insight tremendously. Next you'll have to help me get over the playfield decal that must be covering magnet burn (it's actually a little piece of the decal just over the clouds, but it's not a great match for color in between the clouds...I would have cut the color parts out before installing it myself, but now I'm reluctant to mess with it...I'm holding my breath and learning to live with it until I break down and replace the playfield one day. I'll start a new thread on this when I get the game and begin obsessing...)
e

The board is simple to install - unplug 2 plugs from
The PDB, Mount the board, plug those plugs on the new board, one cable from OCD board to PDB, add power, done. Herg also ships them with good settings so don’t even need to program anything

Don’t mess with the decal on the PF, they are hard to find and never match up anyway. You don’t want to risk additional problems.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from eju201:

damonator what do you mean exactly by "color matched" please? Sounds like you have a good plan for your TAF and I'm interested in doing the same. A little nervous about installing a board of any kind, my other pins are all EMs, but I'm sure I can figure it out.
radium the LED flashers in my game currently are enough to make you fall over. those have to go first thing!
kevmad I'm not worried about the heat...should I be? The game will really only be on a few hours at a time.
Thanks again everyone! I'll be leaning on the pinside braintrust even more as I go, appreciate all the insight tremendously. Next you'll have to help me get over the playfield decal that must be covering magnet burn (it's actually a little piece of the decal just over the clouds, but it's not a great match for color in between the clouds...I would have cut the color parts out before installing it myself, but now I'm reluctant to mess with it...I'm holding my breath and learning to live with it until I break down and replace the playfield one day. I'll start a new thread on this when I get the game and begin obsessing...)
e

"Color matched" - install the same color of LED bulb as the insert. Red insert = red LED, etc. However, just use Warm White for Orange or Yellow inserts - the Orange and Yellow LEDs aren't as bright as the others and you really can't tell the difference color-wise. For white inserts, you'll have to decide if you want it to be natural/cool white or warm white. I would probably stick with warm white under TAF inserts if you are leaving the GI as incandescent.

As for installing boards, you won't need a GI OCD if you are leaving the GI as incandescent. I would recommend an LED OCD however as it will allow for the ramp/fade effect on the inserts vs. a strobe light effect. LEDs don't dim and brighten like an incandescent bulb, but the LED OCD board turns the LEDs on/off at a very fast rate that makes them appear to be dimming. Don't be nervous about the installation, you are just unplugging/plugging in connectors - no wire cutting and everything is completely reversible.

#25 2 years ago

P.S. - don't buy "non ghosting" LED bulbs as they won't work with an LED OCD.

I like Comet bulbs - but there are many choices out there. I would stick with either a 1 or 2 LED SMD:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm

And you may need a few of these:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm

If you want some of the dual head flex LEDs, you'll need to grab those from cointaker as comet only sells the non ghosting variety.

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

"Color matched" - install the same color of LED bulb as the insert. Red insert = red LED, etc. However, just use Warm White for Orange or Yellow inserts - the Orange and Yellow LEDs aren't as bright as the others and you really can't tell the difference color-wise. For white inserts, you'll have to decide if you want it to be natural/cool white or warm white. I would probably stick with warm white under TAF inserts if you are leaving the GI as incandescent.
As for installing boards, you won't need a GI OCD if you are leaving the GI as incandescent. I would recommend an LED OCD however as it will allow for the ramp/fade effect on the inserts vs. a strobe light effect. LEDs don't dim and brighten like an incandescent bulb, but the LED OCD board turns the LEDs on/off at a very fast rate that makes them appear to be dimming. Don't be nervous about the installation, you are just unplugging/plugging in connectors - no wire cutting and everything is completely reversible.

In fact, DO NOT get a GIOCD if you are keeping incandescent. Not only do you not need it, but the additional power drawn by those bulbs (that’s why they get hot) will blow the board

#27 2 years ago

I'm in the same boat as you with my Addams. I put in LEDs a while back
and need to go back to incs on it to get that effect you also want. At least
change some leds and get more incs back in. It was never right went I first converted.
Its just too bright for me and will have to get around to it one of these days.

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

don't buy LED bulbs

fixed it for you

#29 2 years ago

We run our TAF in original play field configuration, no mods and all incandescent. I even put the blinker bulbs in the back box where needed. Only “mod” is I use dipped bulbs instead of the silicon rubbers. It looks amazing. If you want spooky, on top of that, if put in a Pinsound and load the OST mix or one of the other out there. You won’t regret it.

#30 2 years ago

Thanks again everyone! I’ll reply back when I get it all straightened out and will post photos.

And i will learn to ignore the magnet burn decal I guess. As rdoyle1978 says, I don’t want additional problems. I called one of the vendors who sells the decals and asked what it would take to just remove it (unless it’s terrible, I can’t imagine that the magnet burn is really that bad under there), he suggested Goof Off, and I asked again since it sounds extreme, but don’t you think Goof Off would ruin the playfield??

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from eju201:

Thanks again everyone! I’ll reply back when I get it all straightened out and will post photos.
And i will learn to ignore the magnet burn decal I guess. As rdoyle1978 says, I don’t want additional problems. I called one of the vendors who sells the decals and asked what it would take to just remove it (unless it’s terrible, I can’t imagine that the magnet burn is really that bad under there), he suggested Goof Off, and I asked again since it sounds extreme, but don’t you think Goof Off would ruin the playfield??

Freeze it off with an upside down can of compressed air (the way they recommend you remove Mylar) and then use GOO-Gone. NOT GOOF-OFF. Very very different. Regular goo gone is much less caustic. And be prepared to not like what you see :/

Make sure you google some pics of magnet-burned play fields first..

#32 2 years ago

I converted my game back to incandescent bulbs the day I got it and am very happy with how it looks. I swapped the playfield out about 6-months later and now it’s really a keeper!

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