Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Discovered the right flipper was locked on my TAF (for a long, long time). The fliptronics I board was pretty scorched. Replaced the coil as it had slightly melted, put a rottendog fliptronics board in, the flipper locks on again. No fuse blown. So.... CPU board has a blown transistor?
Is the flipper switch shorting on anything?
Also: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Flipper_Problems
Quoted from LTG:Does it power up when you turn the game on ? Fliptronics board issue.
Does it lock on when you start a game ? Flipper button switch issue ( shorted ) or LM339 on fliptronics boards.
LTG : )
Yes, it locks on when the game is turned on. So I guess I have two bad fliptronics boards 
Quoted from LTG:And bad coil, bad diodes, a reversed diode, wired wrong, something like these causing it.
LTG : )
I replaced the coil, diodes looked oriented properly.
Quoted from Skyemont:Mosfet Transistor is the issue here. Ck your MPU board.
You thinking of the right game here ?
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Coil wired right ?
Something took out the new high power transistor - you can check if it's shorted.
LTG : )
So check the high power transistor on the fliptronics board if it's shorted?
Quoted from Brijam:So check the high power transistor on the fliptronics board if it's shorted?
Yes. If it went out right away. You have something else out in the game going on causing this. Coil wired wrong, diodes on backwards on the coil, bad diode, a short to wiring or to coil lugs, bad coil. Even if parts are new. Crap happens.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Yes. If it went out right away. You have something else out in the game going on causing this. Coil wired wrong, diodes on backwards on the coil, bad diode, a short to wiring or to coil lugs, bad coil. Even if parts are new. Crap happens.
LTG : )
Ok, so to confirm there is 0% chance of a problem at the MPU or power driver board. It's either in the wiring, coil or diodes.
The symptom is that the right flipper locks on immediately when the game is powered on, turning off the power drops the flipper.
Quoted from Brijam:Ok, so to confirm there is 0% chance of a problem at the MPU or power driver board. It's either in the wiring, coil or diodes.
Only if it blew the transistor again. Something is blowing the transistor.
LTG : )
Quoted from Brijam:Ok, so to confirm there is 0% chance of a problem at the MPU or power driver board. It's either in the wiring, coil or diodes.
The symptom is that the right flipper locks on immediately when the game is powered on, turning off the power drops the flipper.
You have direct power going to that flipper. Did u replace the coil? If so, did it come preinstalled with diodes or did u add them?
Quoted from Skyemont:You have direct power going to that flipper. Did u replace the coil? If so, did it come preinstalled with diodes or did u add them?
Yes, I replaced the coil; it was preinstalled with diodes. I checked that the they were in the same direction, but didn't unsolder them to test or anything.
Ok I'm baffled.
I had previously replaced the scorched fliptronics board and a suspect coil with a new rottendog and a new coil. When that didn't work, I put a /second/ new rottendog in.
Then I put in a second brand new coil and then a brand new rottendog power driver board in. I double checked the wiring at the coil. Fuses are good.
When I turn on the game the flipper did /not/ lock on. But I started a game and got no power on the flippers. All other solenoids tested.
While the power was on (but a game wasn't started), I tried to move the right flipper with my fingers and /then/ the flipper locked on. Powered it off, then it went down.
What the heck is going on???
Quoted from Brijam:While the power was on (but a game wasn't started), I tried to move the right flipper with my fingers and /then/ the flipper locked on. Powered it off, then it went down.
When J806 is pulled from the fliptronic board, does it no longer lock when R.Flipper is moved up manually ?
Quoted from zaza:When J806 is pulled from the fliptronic board, does it no longer lock when R.Flipper is moved up manually ?
Do you mean 906? I tried unplugging 906 and it didn’t lock on, but when I plugged 906 back in, it still wouldn’t lock on.
Neither flipper works now. I’m mystified.
Quoted from Mageek:Perhaps if you could post a clear picture of the flipper coil mech including EOS it may be helpful
Mageek here you go.
IMG_3673 (resized).JPGIMG_3674 (resized).JPGQuoted from Brijam:Mageek here you go.[quoted image][quoted image]
The EOS switch is needing adjustment. The long blade needs to be straight. The bottom short one should also be straight. Grab the plunger (not the link) and pull it down. Right before it bottoms out the EOS switches should touch. Adjust the BOTTOM leaf of the switch if needed.
I went ahead and adjusted the EOS, even though it was working fine before (touching just as the flipper was at full extension), but that made no difference.
I tried messing around more and found out a couple of things:
1) physically holding the lower right flipper up locks it on (buttons do not trigger any flippers)
2) physically holding the upper left flipper up locks it on, but it's more of a stuttering lock
3) physically holding the lower left flipper causes the upper right flipper to trigger when the lower left flipper triggers the EOS
Quoted from Brijam:I went ahead and adjusted the EOS, even though it was working fine before (touching just as the flipper was at full extension), but that made no difference.
I tried messing around more and found out a couple of things:
1) physically holding the lower right flipper up locks it on (buttons do not trigger any flippers)
2) physically holding the upper left flipper up locks it on, but it's more of a stuttering lock
3) physically holding the lower left flipper causes the upper right flipper to trigger when the lower left flipper triggers the EOS
Bump
Quoted from Brijam:Mageek here you go.[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good other than it's hard to tell what that schmutz is below the org / grn wire on the coil jacket, also roll pin on the plunger should be pressed in.
Have you replaced the ribbon cables? My TAF had a locked on flipper coil and my TZ had a locked on flasher both caused by bad ribbon cables.
Quoted from Mageek:Looks good other than it's hard to tell what that schmutz is below the org / grn wire on the coil jacket, also roll pin on the plunger should be pressed in.
Have you replaced the ribbon cables? My TAF had a locked on flipper coil and my TZ had a locked on flasher both caused by bad ribbon cables.
Turns out J805 and J806 were reversed on the fliptronics board, and I think J805 was off by one pin as well.
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Hopkins, MN
Ottawa, ON
Auckland, NZ