(Topic ID: 76600)

TAF restoring guidance

By vilant

10 years ago


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  • 34 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by RussMyers
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

I've neglected my pin recently, but no longer. I was just going to replace bulbs and do a general cleaning, but then I joined here and I wanted to more So I bought a "Tour the Mansion V4 package", and decals. Was going to do just that, but now I'm going to disassemble the play field and clean every nook and cranny (something that needs to be done). I have some issues and want some guidance on how best to correct. First, I think a previous owner put Mylar down on the play field (unless it came from the factory) and it starting to come up and dirt is getting under it. Plus I think some of the decals are coming off. Second, I have a couple of chips in the hole to the chair (I'll get to that next).
So my first question is was everything on the play field painted on, or is it all decals?
Here's the pics where either Mylar or decals are coming up.
TAF 002.jpgTAF 002.jpgTAF 006.jpgTAF 006.jpgTAF 003.jpgTAF 003.jpgTAF 001.jpgTAF 001.jpg
Not sure what's painted on and what's decals. If they're just decals I'll order new ones. What's the best way to take them off? Upside down can of air for dusting keyboards?

#2 10 years ago

Originally it was painted, silk screened and then clear coated. I know some were diamond plate clear coat which is a hard automotive type polyurethane. If I recall corectly not all of the Addams family playfields were though. Even with the diamond coat clear the house area was often an area of damage around the inserts. Even if you put down new decals you will still have to clear the palyfield over them.
Mylar can be taken off with the freeze spray method (upside down dust off) It works realy well but will leave the glue on the playfield. Use Goo Gone (not Goof off). Let it sit for 10-15 minutes and rub with flour (regular baking flour) It will ball up all of the old glue. Of course you do risk removing paint on a worn playfield. If you do a quick search here for Vids playfield restoration guide it will give you a much better overview of what is required.

#4 10 years ago

I just did a Addams Family . Complete tear down . All new plastics , new ramp , pop bumper caps , non ghosting LEDs from comet pinball , brand new bookcase and I added the decals to the back board and bookcase . I also added led lights to the scoops at the chair and swamp . I tore the whole thing apart and put it together again . If you have any questions just shoot me a pm . Good luck

#5 10 years ago

The inserts aren't too bad and your mansion is pretty good too. I wouldn't muck around with trying to restore the inserts with decals, just give it a good cleaning and live with it. Unless you're skilled at restoring inserts you can easily make it worse. If the Mylar around pop bumpers is fugly you can remove it.

#6 10 years ago

That thread Vid made is awesome. Thanks for posting the link, sc204. I wasn't sure when I first looked at the pf if it was original or it was overlays. Pretty sure its original and the paint on the inserts is starting to chip.
Although I have some skills to restore it, it would take me too long, and my time is valuable to me. I agree with you jackd, its really not that bad of shape. I'll just do a complete tear down and clean all the grit and dirt out and then remove that ratty piece of Mylar.
If I run into any problems, I'll give you a shout phatchit, thanks for the offer.

#7 10 years ago

Once the pf is cleaned, would you guys recommend waxing the pf? Is regular car wax OK, or is there something special that should be used? Or will waxing create more grunge?

#8 10 years ago

I just finished a full PF swap last month. There’s several of the overlays that I’ve seen in person look really good. I think a lot of that has to do with the person who installed them is very talented but you can make those inserts look decent again. If that was my game, I’d do as you plan and strip the game down, use the overlays, and replace or repair anything that’s broken with a full top side teardown, replace all the coil sleeves, rebuild the flippers and thorough cleaning. That game will really come out nice. It will also allow you to install the tour the mansion kit at the same time. I’d recommend the bookcase and Thing decals too if they’re not part of the kit you got.

Here’s my PF swap post. Yours wouldn’t need near as much work since you’re just tearing down the topside.

As for waxing: yes absolutely. I use this: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g7014j-gold-class%E2%84%A2-carnauba-plus-paste-wax/ Stay away from waxes that have cleaning in the name generally.

This was my teardown post: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-nutty-playfield-swap-taf-edition
Taf Before and After.jpgTaf Before and After.jpg

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I just finished a full PF swap last month. There’s several of the overlays that I’ve seen in person look really good. I think a lot of that has to do with the person who installed them is very talented but you can make those inserts look decent again. If that was my game, I’d do as you plan and strip the game down, use the overlays, and replace or repair anything that’s broken with a full top side teardown, replace all the coil sleeves, rebuild the flippers and thorough cleaning. That game will really come out nice. It will also allow you to install the tour the mansion kit at the same time. I’d recommend the bookcase and Thing decals too if they’re not part of the kit you got.
Here’s my PF swap post. Yours wouldn’t need near as much work since you’re just tearing down the topside.
As for waxing: yes absolutely. I use this: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g7014j-gold-class%E2%84%A2-carnauba-plus-paste-wax/ Stay away from waxes that have cleaning in the name generally.
This was my teardown post: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-nutty-playfield-swap-taf-edition
Taf Before and After.jpg 197 KB

Already rebuilt the flippers, decals and lights are here. Read your whole thread, really nice job on the restore. I don't understand how your playfield went from all those rough looking inserts in the beginning to flawless a few pics later. Did you use overlays? I was debating about the decals on the black bottom part (apron?), here's a pic of mine
TAF 007.jpgTAF 007.jpg
Did you remove the old artwork on the apron or just put the new decals right on top of it?

#10 10 years ago

Just noticed this perfectly drilled hole in my play field. What is it? Alternate flipper spot?
TAF 001.1.jpgTAF 001.1.jpg

#11 10 years ago

The clear ramp is the most important part of any good TAF restoration. The difference is night and day.

#12 10 years ago

^^^ very true.

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from vilant:

Just noticed this perfectly drilled hole in my play field. What is it? Alternate flipper spot?

I have no idea why someone drilled the hole, but there is no reason for it to be there. I would either leave it be, or put a small square of mylar over it, or fill it with a tiny bit of bondo, or something, just to be sure it doesn't cause wear to spread around it.

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from vilant:

Already rebuilt the flippers, decals and lights are here. Read your whole thread, really nice job on the restore. I don't understand how your playfield went from all those rough looking inserts in the beginning to flawless a few pics later. Did you use overlays? I was debating about the decals on the black bottom part (apron?), here's a pic of mine

Did you remove the old artwork on the apron or just put the new decals right on top of it?

Great, you're set to go! Thanks; I figured the pics may help you for your teardown. I installed a whole new playfield with the inserts all part of it and clearcoated over. So no overlays as that is done as part of the IPB playfield.

As far as the apron, it appears that the TAF apron paint gets chalky on most. I clean them off until the chalkiness of what was left of the paint was gone (pretty much all was gone!), and then installed on top. Carefully done, they look great.

If you have any questions on anything, feel free to ask.

1 week later
#15 10 years ago

So, I'm re-assembling my playfield after a complete top side tear down and I am missing a post (was never there since I bought it, just never noticed before). Does anyone know what went here originally?
TAF rebuild 059.1.jpgTAF rebuild 059.1.jpg
P.S. this a pic from before the tear down.

#16 10 years ago

You are missing a ball guide. I will post a picture.

#17 10 years ago

Here you go
IMG_00000019.jpgIMG_00000019.jpg

#18 10 years ago
Quoted from sc204:

You are missing a ball guide. I will post a picture.

His ball guide is there. If you look at where the hole is in his pic, it's in the red....and there shouldn't be any hole there at all (see your pic). Someone at some point in time had added a nail or screw to deflect the ball or something.

#19 10 years ago

Yup you are right, pic was too small Hard to imagine why someone would want a post there.

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from MattElder:

His ball guide is there. If you look at where the hole is in his pic, it's in the red....and there shouldn't be any hole there at all (see your pic). Someone at some point in time had added a nail or screw to deflect the ball or something.

I'm wondering if this was a factory hole that ended up not bring used on earlier production games? My game has the same hole in the exact spot and didn't realize it until I started reassembly and boring was there and searched my teardown pics one found there was never anything there. If I recalled it looks looks a factory hole not some hole poorly drilled etc., anybody else have a hole in their PF?

#21 10 years ago

Ok this topic got me to second guess myself so I went down and looked at my game again and indeed my hole is in the same exact spot and also appears to have had a post there as it has a slight indent from being tightened. It also is countersunk on the underside just like all the other posts are, so I think this was an earlier design that was obviously an issue that was found to be fixed by removing it and later not installed at all. image-666.jpgimage-666.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage-775.jpgimage-775.jpg

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from Doot77:

Ok this topic got me to second guess myself so I went down and looked at my game again and indeed my hole is in the same exact spot and also appears to have had a post there as it has a slight indent from being tightened. It also is countersunk on the underside just like all the other posts are, so I think this was an earlier design that was obviously an issue that was found to be fixed by removing it and later not installed at all.

Mine was made Jan. 07, 1992, just a week earlier then yours. It was definitely from the factory because it has the same threaded sleeve nailed into the underside as the rest of the threaded sleeved holes on the playfield. I thought maybe someone took out either that pointed post with a small rubber bumper or one of the posts with the longer bumper that you see in front of the ramps. If I don't need it I won't worry about it, but if there is supposed to be something there I would like to put the right one back in.

#23 10 years ago

I'd just leave it off, mine doesn't have anything in it and plays great. If most don't have a hole there I'm guessing it caused balls to get stuck on occasion so they removed it from later games.

#24 10 years ago

Okay, I'm finally back home and saw the other pictures and responses, and went to look at mine....

I don't have a pic yet, but mine is yet a third variation! Mine had no hole drilled, but there is a large black circle around where the others are drilled, and no color in the middle of the circle. Oddly, the circle on mine is even bigger than the holes that are drilled on the others....so you'd think the black line would still be visible on theirs. Anyway, It is definitely clear that they made a change on the playfields getting drilled (and marked) at some point. My playfield is dated Jan. 29, 1992.

It's pretty neat to see these little changes over the course of a few weeks when they were pumping these out left and right.

#25 10 years ago

That is interesting, my machine serial is #20017. Towards the end of the production run, right? I think there was 22000 made. So I wonder if someone with an early model still has a post there. Got another question for ya's, I found this plastic bug underneath the wire harnesses.
TAF rebuild 084.jpgTAF rebuild 084.jpg
The holes don't line up on anything in my playfield. I know there is other plastic bugs you can buy. Do these critters go in specific places or wherever you feel like? I'd like to put the one shown some where but either have to drill another hole in it or leave one hole unused.

#26 10 years ago

20017 is I believe the game ID # your serial number should be the number after that, but they don't just start out on number 1. My serial number is 20017 594943. That bug plastic should go behind / on top of the vault. image-973.jpgimage-973.jpg

#27 10 years ago
Quoted from Doot77:

20017 is I believe the game ID # your serial number should be the number after that, but they don't just start out on number 1. My serial number is 20017 594943. That bug plastic should go behind / on top of the vault.

Oh, then my serial # is 590995. How can you tell when your pin was made in the production run? Now I know why I couldn't find a spot for the bug. I bought a safe for the top of the vault a while ago. I'll have to find a new place for it cause I like the safe. Thanks for info.

#28 10 years ago

I think there are a few sites that log serial numbers but never really looked into it much actually. A quick search on ipdb had a link to here but not much info on it there.

http://www.ipsnd.net/View.aspx?id=20

#29 10 years ago

Even though I haven't received my back wall decal, I decided to put everything back together cause I've been itching to play it. So I get all together and I run into a few issues.
First thing is, I kept blowing the fuse on the right flipper solenoid. Flip flopped 2 wires by accident so I fixed and everything's good.
Second, every time turn the machine off it clears all the settings. I did change the batteries, but I just used 3 regular AA batteries to replace the old ones. Is there some special battery I should be using (threw the old ones out thinking they were just regular AA) or do I need to set something other than time and date in the menu?
And finally I've blown 2 fuses in the left playfield GI circuit. Does anyone of common problem with the circuit tripping (pinch points, crappy sockets, etc) or do I need to a seek and destroy mission on 20 some odd light sockets for a short?
P.S. thanks in advance and for all the help so far

#30 10 years ago
Quoted from vilant:

Second, every time turn the machine off it clears all the settings. I did change the batteries, but I just used 3 regular AA batteries to replace the old ones. Is there some special battery I should be using (threw the old ones out thinking they were just regular AA) or do I need to set something other than time and date in the menu?

It takes regular AAs, nothing special.
It is usually recommended to replace with a remote battery holder or with Lithium AAs to reduce the chance of leaking batteries damaging the MPU board, which is common.
If your setting keep getting cleared when the game is off, the batteries power is not getting to the RAM on the board.
I'm assuming the new batteries you installed were good and you installed them correctly.
If there is previous corrosion on the battery holder, that can prevent current flow.
There may be a cracked solder joint or broken trace on the MPU board between the battery holder and the rest of the board. You would have to remove the MPU board and check this with a meter.

Quoted from vilant:

And finally I've blown 2 fuses in the left playfield GI circuit. Does anyone of common problem with the circuit tripping (pinch points, crappy sockets, etc) or do I need to a seek and destroy mission on 20 some odd light sockets for a short?
P.S. thanks in advance and for all the help so far

Something is shorting to ground on that GI circuit and blowing the fuse.
Those GI sockets are #44, and one of them may have the lugs twisted so they are touching each other, or one of the sockets is touching metal or another wire somewhere. You have to inspect them all carefully.
Less likely is that one of the bulbs is bad and shorted internally.

RussMyers

#31 10 years ago

One of the old batteries did leak. I tried sanding and cleaning the corrosion, but I guess a new holder is in order. The GI circuit was a long shot, was hoping to avoid the back breaking of bending over for an hour trying to reach all those hard to get to sockets in the back(cause you know that's where it'll be, lol). Thanks, Russ

#32 10 years ago

Do me a solid and take a couple of good close-up hi-res pics of the battery holder and the area just below it.

We need to see that area.

Corrosive spooge can flow outwards and start "electronic cancer" and we need a look.

RussMyers

#33 10 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Do me a solid and take a couple of good close-up hi-res pics of the battery holder and the area just below it.
We need to see that area.
Corrosive spooge can flow outwards and start "electronic cancer" and we need a look.
RussMyers

I missed your response somehow, sorry about that. The holder is all good now. When I removed the old leaking battery I sanded the holder with fine sandpaper. Apparently it didn't do enough cause there was still residue on it. So I folded and stuffed a paper towel directly underneath the holder and spritzed CLR on the terminals and let it soak for 10 min. Scrubbed it with very fine steel wool. Repeated that twice. There was still some small black pitted spots, so I tore a tiny piece of self adhesive fine sandpaper to one of my control screwdrivers and sanded til it was gone. All nice and shiny now.
taf REBUILD 013.jpgtaf REBUILD 013.jpg

#34 10 years ago

Looks like you dodged a bullet there. No corrosion on the chips below the holder that I can see.

ASAP, get a remote battery holder in there, and/or lithium AAs, instead of alkali batteries.

RM

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