Seems you're missing one GI connector. Must be smashed behind the power driver board?TAF (resized).png
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Quoted from rskb41:We have just replaced fuse F114 and all now the leds are on, but the 50v is still 76v.
Is the game booting up now? If not, reseat that top left ribbon cable at all 4 board connections.
Quoted from rskb41:Thanks, have done that a couple of times, we did accidentally reseat into wrong spot and kept blowing F112. Still does not boot up.
Try unplugging both ribbon cables at the top of the MPU. Does it boot up now? If so, I think you need to replace that top left ribbon cable. I had issues with where these come from. I think the female pins are much deeper than the original ribbon cables and make of very intermittent connections.
Can you unplug the small ribbon cable between the driver board and MPU? Remove the 2 just at the top of the MPU. MPU should boot up without any ribbon cables plugged in. If not still booting, there seems to be a MPU issue to deal with. Try and push on the ASIC chip, any luck?
This MPU was tested before? Maybe game ROM is plugged in wrong?
You can do a quick test. If you take the MPU out of the Getaway, plug in power into J210 only. Hold the MPU on the edges while powering on the machine. If it does not boot, I would be checking the actual voltage measurements on the power driver board, especially 5v and 12Digital. 12VUnregulated should still be above, 13v, but will not keep the board from booting up.
Quoted from rskb41:Thanks..is this ok ?
Yes, those are in correctly. The voltages sound good too.
It seems one side of the ASIC chip is not seated properly. Push firmly on the right side. The chip should be seated down in the socket just like the left side. Maybe it is just me, but looks like it is not seated in this picture.
Quoted from rskb41:Just tried this too, but no change . With the Getaway the D19 went out and D20 started flashing ..picture does not show properly .
Do you have the PLCC chip puller to remove the ASIC chip? I would remove it and look for any damaged pins in the socket and any bent pins on the chip and then reseat it back into the socket and try to boot it up again before getting another board.
Quoted from rskb41:We will take it with us to our guy that's got the mpu..
<You know that was a working TAF game ROM ?
If the socket pins look ok, try and press it down all sizes of the chip at the same time. Best having the board flat on a table.
I'm kinda worried that the ribbon cable that was plugged in wrong spot, causing the fuse to blow, may have damaged the MPU.
Hope your replacement works out.
All of us have done that or something similar. Not the best way to learn, but it is learning none the less.
Enjoy!
Oh, You can talk with who you bought it from to see where you can send it for repair. If they say send it to Rottendog, they likely will repair it under warranty. If so, it can be gone a while though.
Quoted from rskb41:We have success, thanks so much again for pointing us in the right direction, we picked up a new board this morning and everything works. ....that is everything except thing...but we are sorting that out now ...possibly a new motor .
That is very good news. I hope you get the thing sorted out soon so you can enjoy the game. Now the game only needs a ColorDMD. http://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-addams-family-pinball-machine/
Quoted from rskb41:Thanks...playing games now...just disabled thing for now..it's a great machine !! Also Just sorting out some really minor other issues , but it plays great .
And yes..colour dmd is next on the list, it's a must, now we have it working . thanks for the link
The LED display is currently out of stock until end of February. Though the LCD one is in stock, but the tall screen will sit high up from the speaker panel because of the *THING* lamps at the bottom. LED display would be a better fit for this game.
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