I'm getting this right that Bryan disassembles then tumbles the leaf switches? Does that cause any problems removing the plating at the point of connection?

Hi Bryan,

That is the same concern that I have always had. I think the inner side decals look great, but if you scratch them lifting the playfield then it isn't a simple touch-up with a black Sharpie marker.

I would guess that you would need to line the playfield sides with a soft felt and then still really be careful when lifting and lowering the playfield to avoid scratching the inner side decals.

Gord

One will certainly get you by. Things just take longer. Two smaller ones let me keep things organized. One will have the cabinet hardware in it and one will have all the playfield stuff. The larger one is needed for the larger pieces. I don't use that one much but when I need it, I really need it.

OK, let me explain those first few pics. For those who don't know what I coil is, It's a plastic bobbin with a tube inside with hundreds of layers of wire windings. The ultrasonic gets the cleaner throughout those layers. To get it out, I use compressed air blown into the small slot at the bottom. That blows air from the inside out. The bubbles shown are what I get when I do that. I'll blow then rinse, blow then rinse and keep doing that until I get no bubbles. Flipper coils can sometimes require that as much as ten times.

In order to fully dry them, I'll do that same process, only without the water, many times throughout the day.

Jeez....it's 11:30 am. I don't even crack a beer that early

I actually throw the entire switch assembly in the tumbler. I'll bolt things together first so it doesn't come apart. Once done, I'll remove the bolts and loosen things to remove any media. I've done this for years and had no issues with the contacts. However, they do get cleaned with denatured alcohol.

That's your problem, not mine.

Suppose when were up north tho, we'll have bloody Mary's with a beer chaser around noon. So, I guess I can see it at 11:30, BUT, your working. Keep up the awesome work BK

Let me just say this, if I can't have fun with what I do, I don't want to do it. Why do you think I retired as an electrical contractor. After 40 years, it got to the point where I hated what I did. It was time to move on.

Nice looking coils! Yep, Those minnisotans/ Canadians can drink beer that early.

Would felt applied the the PF edge protect the artwork a bit?
The application could be self stick felt along with some buried staples to hold it in place?

If I were putting that kind of money, time and effort into a restore, I would leave it original.

I wouldn't hack it up.

Yeah - sorry - the big flat circle that rotates to open the vault -- is what I meant. heh.

Agreed plus the insides where you're picking out the shells never get polished and looks crappy against the shiny tumbled part. It's much easier and relatively cheap to buy new screws and washers. A box of 100 #6 x 1/2" screws from BoltDepot.com cost only $1.66 and #8 x 1/2" cost only $1.90. A box of 100 external tooh washers costs $2.25.

Where do you source the new switches from?

I get all my generic stuff from Terry at Pinball Life. I buy the switches and diodes 100 at a time and will make up an assembly like process where I attach all the diodes myself. Most actuators are reusable, so I just transfer them to the new switch.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=830

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173

Thanks, as I am contemplating restoring my game after viewing this thread and would like to replace the switches.

Yup. And how many types of screws are in a pinball machine with all the different lengths? Maybe 50? There are some real common ones I buy new, but I just can't see throwing away perfectly good fasteners simply because I can buy new. I do throw away a number of them that have issues and use new also.

It may sound stupid, but I guess I pride myself in being able to restore and reuse as many parts in a game as I can. It's kind of a game in itself.

I have the same attitude. If it looks decent (my definition may vary from your definition) and it still works then I leave it alone. Of course, that is after cleaning and tumbling. Rusted and corroded ones get replaced. I've tried "rust busting" but it's just cheaper to replace them. Costs more in electricity to run the equipment than the new parts.

do you make all of your own coil wrappers?

do you do anything to keep the coil wrappers from unraveling? I have had problems with new wrappers unraveling and used double-sides scotch tape at the end of the wrapper, curious how others handle that.

Exactly. I've had plenty of games with corrosion so bad damn near every fastener had to be replaced. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.