New scoop! Some repro parts are better than NOS. The repros have more welded spots.
Quoted from zerbam:do you make all of your own coil wrappers?
Nope. Rick is the only one who makes them like the originals. You can get them at Bay Area Amusements or Planetary pinball.
Quoted from NYP:do you do anything to keep the coil wrappers from unraveling? I have had problems with new wrappers unraveling and used double-sides scotch tape at the end of the wrapper, curious how others handle that.
I've had that happen before but I always figured it was because I didn't let the coil dry enough. A week later when I went to put the coil in, I simply pressed it back down and it stayed.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Exactly. I've had plenty of games with corrosion so bad damn near every fastener had to be replaced. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Same here. With the addition of trying to have anything that's on the playfield shine. So it's either shiny out of the tumbler, it goes to the buffing wheel, it gets plated, or it gets replaced.
I really like your part drawer labeling setup Bryan!
I also REALLY need to find a few sets of those drawers. Any idea where I can find some?
Quoted from Whysnow:I really like your part drawer labeling setup Bryan!
I also REALLY need to find a few sets of those drawers. Any idea where I can find some?
If they look familiar, they're from an Ace Hardware store. You can't buy them, they're made strictly for Ace. I bought 36 five drawer units at an auction for about $300.
Of course they had been sitting in a pole barn for years. Many of them still had the parts in them. Some had mouse nests. It took me about a week to clean them all out, strip off all the old labels and clean them all. It fucking sucked!!!
They're made by Hillman, if you want to check them out.
Hey Bryan, I see your coils still have plenty of solder on the tips, do you simply melt the solder and pull the wires, or cut them?
Quoted from KornFreak28:100 are made at a time
You flipped that one diode in that batch !
Quoted from Plumonium:Hey Bryan, I see your coils still have plenty of solder on the tips, do you simply melt the solder and pull the wires, or cut them?
I never cut wires. Too many times, there's just enough as is. However, before pulling the wires, I'll take a picture of each of the coils showing wire colors.
Speaking of solder on the tabs, that gets removed. I didn't show it but I call it my redneck method of solder removal. Simply heat the tab and bang the coil on the bench top. Works like a charm.
Quoted from JDD:You flipped that one diode in that batch !
Thank you!!!!
For those who don't know, a reversed diode on any switch will cause all kinds of odd switch issues. It can drive you crazy!!
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Thank you!!!!
For those who don't know, a reversed diode on any switch will cause all kinds of odd switch issues. It can drive you crazy!!
You owe me $50
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Did you want your game back in one piece?
On second thought....I better be quiet
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Yup. And how many types of screws are in a pinball machine with all the different lengths? Maybe 50? There are some real common ones I buy new, but I just can't see throwing away perfectly good fasteners simply because I can buy new. I do throw away a number of them that have issues and use new also.
It may sound stupid, but I guess I pride myself in being able to restore and reuse as many parts in a game as I can. It's kind of a game in itself.
I agree and I should have clarified what I meant. The most common - #6 & #8 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", etc. are more cost effective and easier to replace than reconditioning but the other more unique or oddball screws are certainly worth trying to to refurbish. You could go crazy or nuts (no pun intended) trying to replace every single screw in a particular game.
Quoted from KornFreak28:On second thought....I better be quiet
Keep it up and he'll make you drink one of his beers!!!
Seriously, Bryan thanks for all the pics!!! You do a great job on your restorations and it's always great to be able to follow the resto and see how and what you do!!!
I have to admit, I feel a bit stupid. Since I had to make and install a new bottom, I could just as easily moved the power box hole more to the back. I guess keeping with originality sometimes gets in my way.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I have to admit, I feel a bit stupid. Since I had to make and install a new bottom, I could just as easily moved the power box hole more to the back. I guess keeping with originality sometimes gets in my way.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I have to admit, I feel a bit stupid. Since I had to make and install a new bottom, I could just as easily moved the power box hole more to the back. I guess keeping with originality sometimes gets in my way.
Just as soon as you did that, somebody would be groping for the hole to find the switch, and complain that somebody put it in the wrong place... don't feel stupid for keeping it original.
Quoted from Sheprd:and complain that somebody put it in the wrong place.
I agree, You really shouldn't mess with Kornfreaks hole!
Quoted from Skypilot:I agree, You really shouldn't mess with Kornfreaks hole!
LMAO!!!!
Quoted from Skypilot:I agree, You really shouldn't mess with Kornfreaks hole!
That's just wrong right there.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:That's just wrong right there.
You brought it up. I figured it was the shitty beer talking.
Quoted from Skypilot:You brought it up. I figured it was the shitty beer talking.
There will be a thread eject from here on in if anyone says anything about any man's hole!!!
Whether there's beer involved or not!!
Quoted from Skins:I think it's cute how you stick up (in?) for another man's hole. You're a good egg Bryan.
OK. Where's a moderator when you need one!!!!
Quoted from BrianZ:Bryan, do you know the partner number for the connector to the coil on the TAF knocker? In my machine, the knocker was missing. I've built a new one from parts, but I don't have the connector. I've attempted to buy some, but keep getting the wrong part.
You want this one.
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