My Addams Family was working fine, then when I hit both flippers, the bottom ones stayed up. I shut off the machine immediately, and the flippers came down. So, I turned it back on, started playing, and then when I hit the left flipper, the bottom one stayed up. So, turned off again. Looked at the flippers, and the diodes looked OK, though I know that is no guarantee. Looked at the flipper board, and a couple of the transisters, Q7 and Q9, clearly had funky soldering. Took it off, and this is what I saw.
Flipper_Bd_1_(resized).JPG
Flipper_bd2_(resized).JPG

So, it had been obviously fried and fixed in the past. There are so many burn marks, plus partially melted J802 connector, that I just decided to buy a new board. However, is there anyplace else I should be looking to make sure there are not problems beyond the board? Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Thanks for the suggestion. I can replace the diodes since I follow others suggestions to do that when testing since they have to be taken out of circuit anyway to test. I should just replace all the coils, not test them?

What is the correct amount?

Just a bump for any other thoughts

So today I received the Fliptronics board, and now am checking the coils and diodes for the flippers. Took each diode of circuit, and they all checked out OK. BUT, the readings on the coils seemed odd. From this site: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm, here are the instructions to check the coils:
Put one lead of the DMM on the outside common flipper lug (the one with the thin and thick coil windings attached to it).
Put the other lead of the DMM on the middle lug. A reading of about 4 ohms should be indicated. This is the high powered side of the coil.
Put the leads of the DMM on the two outside lugs of the coil. For fliptronics games, a reading of about 125 ohms should be seen.

My readings -
For both lower flippers
high powered coils - 4.3ohms
low powered coils - 365ohms

upper left flipper
high powered coil - 10ohms
low powered coil - 212ohms

upper right flipper
high powered coil - 5ohms
low powered coil - 163 ohms

Can anyone help me with understanding which of these coils are in spec or need to be replaced?

Much appreciated!

Morning bump, any suggestions greatly appreciated. Not sure what to do next, except buy all new coils...

I thought the lower flipper readings looked high, though it would be odd if they both went off exactly the same. The coils look fine visually. I have not tested the opto boards in the switch test, but I think that would require I put the new fliptronic board in, and was waiting to see if there was any other checking to do before taking that step.

I put the new fliptronic board in, and all the flippers work fine, and a game plays, then the machine freezes! The flippers do not respond, random lights seem to light, and the dmd image is replaced by a horizontal line that moves down the screen. If I shut off the machine, then turn it on, it starts as normal. I start playing a game, then another freeze.

I double checked to make sure all the connectors to the new board are in the right place, but this seems such a major error, I do not know where to start - any suggestions appreciated. Thanks!

I'll try to reset the cables and check that out tonight. Is there a best source for that cable?

I resat all the connectors, and that did not help. Repinning the connectors sounds like a good idea. I will do that with trifurcon pins - I have some but probably not enough. And might as well buy the ribbon cable - better safe than sorry.

Thank you for the clarification, was not looking forward to the redoing the trifurcon connectors. I will look at the pin headers. For this step by step reattaching the ribbon cables, I will give it a try, but I am not sure it will work because the machine plays fine at the start, and the problem does not occur till some time into a game. Maybe I will play till the problem shows up, then try this.

Thank you for the suggestion - will let you know what I find.

Sounds good - cables ordered.

It has taken me a while to get back to this, I hope you are still with me on this. I bought new cables and replaced all the old ones. The game still plays for a while, then freezes with horizontal lines moving down the DMD. I tried the suggestion from litz about adding the cables stepwise as described, and the activity I see is all as described, so appears fine.

Next step, I took off the CPU to look at the pins, and found something that looks pretty fishy, but before I do anything was hoping someone could confirm for me. The pins for the connections to the dot matrix board and the flipper board look fine. But the pix below show the pins to the power driver board. You can see that there appears to be a big blob of solder in the middle, highlighted by the arrow.

power-driver_to_cpu_back_(resized).JPG

Should I go ahead and remove the blob? And if this is the cause, why would it only be affecting the game now there is a new flipper board?

Thanks for your help

Thanks for the additional suggestions. I removed the blob of solder, and the problem persists. There is no battery damage, I took the batteries off the CPU while all was still fine. I inspected the slam tilt switch and they are bent very far apart.

I took off all the boards and inspected, and found the following issues - on the sound board, there is hack to replace a bad trace. I checked the connection and there is continuity from the back of the board at the connector to C28 on the front of the board. I also noticed that there was continuity to one of the legs to U3, but do not have schematics so not sure if this is correct or not.
sound_board_to_C28_(resized).jpg

On the dot matrix board, I saw heat effects from the sinks, but all looked intact -
dot_matrix_board_back_(resized).JPG
dot_matrix_board_front_(resized).JPG

So, I resat every connector, and turned the machine on. All the lights on the power driver are lit. The LEDs 201, 203, 202 act properly, the machine bongs, and it is ready for a game. HOWEVER, now, after about 10 seconds, the dot matrix changes to a horizontal line at the same time the LEDs 203 and 202 turn off. So, I guess it is a CPU issue as suggested above, but not sure what to do next.

Note - I have Kahr's daughterboard on the CPU, as the machine was still resetting after I sent out the power driver board for repair. Once I added the daughterboard, the resets stopped.

I appreciate any comments after reading through this long story!

One step forward, two steps back. I realize that there are no lights on in the playfield before the machine goes into the CPU freeze.

I did try removing the Kahr board. Interestingly, the game starts fine, goes through the diagnostics, and will start a game. The dot matrix is working fine, as are the sounds. The flippers work fine, but a ball is not sent to the plunger. There are still no lights to the playfield, but if I run through the diagnostics, I can get weak flashers when I test them. The fuses on the driver board all look intact.

Is there a specific connection from the driver board to the playfield that I may have messed up?