Hi.
I think you'll find that the knocker is in the solenoid test menu (T4). From memory its called the Thing Knocker.

Also, I believe there is a setting in the menu to disable the knocker. Be sure it is not disabled.

That's strange that T4.02 doesn't appear in the menu. I don't know what could cause that. T4.02 is the Thing Knocker. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than me may be able to shed some light on what could cause this.

Are the boards in your backbox original, or have any been replaced? Do you have a Rottendog driver board installed? I've previously read that there can be earthing issues with some models of this board.

Check connector J132 in your backbox. Make sure its plugged in and that pin 2 has a good connection, doesn't look burnt etc

I agree with checking J132 on the power driver board in the backbox. When a component stops working after a machine is shopped (and especially when that component wasn't replaced/adjusted), it's often because a connection comes loose or a connector/pin breaks while disconnecting and reconnecting things. And I believe that some games of that era skip component tests if they don't believe that the component is connected at all -- which might be particularly likely to be true for a knocker, which is often disconnected intentionally.

Also check the power driver board itself to see if there's any visible damage, especially around the transistor at Q80.

And my suggestion would be to not replace the ROMs until you've diagnosed the issue. That's unlikely to fix it and may introduce more variables that make it harder to figure out the problem.

Are you able to post a few pics? One of the boards inside the backbox. One showing the connector at J132. And one showing the knocker assembly and the associated wire connector.

Also, can you provide as much info as possible on the new PCB game board that you mention.

You appear to have had a lot of work done on this machine. It must have cost you a fortune. Have you considered contacting the person who did the work and getting them to rectify the problem. I assume the knocker was working prior to any work being done.

The knocker can optionally be replaced with a mechanical coin counter, and that is why it is not operated in solenoid test.

To make the knocker operate normally, make sure you have adjustment A3.21 Coin meter units set to OFF.

Sorry but I couldn't help myself...lol

pasted_image (resized).png

Set the CPU country code to USA, all jumpers W14 -W18 in place or if there is a dip switch, switches on.

The CPU jumpers or DIP switches are at the highlighted location on the CPU board.

Addams Family CPU Switches (resized).png

https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_wpc_country_settings.html

This will help you.

LTG : )

All ON

LTG : )

Ah, that explains why things aren't lining up with the manuals; you're using a more modern replacement board. The behavior of those sometimes won't match what's in the manual.

Note that this board has the DIP switch settings documented on the board itself. You might also want to file this instruction sheet away for future reference: https://www.pinled.de/WebRoot/Store31/Shops/87959183/5E09/4038/EFA3/9B7D/9D59/0A0C/6D12/86C5/Einbauanleitung_fuer_PinLED_WPC_CPU_Platinen_Eng_v1.1.pdf

It looks like your board's DIP switches are currently set to a combination that isn't actually documented, which might explain some odd behavior.

(And "New PCB game board" on the restoration sheet might explain the presence of this board.)