(Topic ID: 127912)

TAF - keeps blowing GI fuse....help?


By pinnaf

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by dgarrett
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

i have to double check but its in the F106-F110 group.... they are all GI common slo-blo fuse

(its the upper left string of GI lights and ties to the lower left sling GI and outlane GI)

When I got the game that group of lights didn't work, I put a new fuse in and it worked fine.. then at some point during a deep shop job, LEDing , Moding and such during a test -upon turn on - I noticed they were not working (I guess blew upon start up)

I switched the fuse.. and no more issues

I think at some point the fuse blew again and I changed it and again many plays and tests and shopping, full LEDing and deep cleanup done.. and all good

Recently the power board had fatal Fuse error issue, board sent to Clive. in the meantime I put in a working WPC board and game working again and no fuse issue.

Just last night I click it on (haven't played it in 2 weeks or so) and the same set of lights is out... blown fuse, put good on it, lights on, start a game and play and during game play that string of lights blew again.

I think the GI string blowing is a more historic issue (before I got the game)... some wire is touching somewhere??

hummmmmm

I guess the question is where so I start? I doubt is the board. I looked at the connections and etc and all good.

thanks for any assistance

#2 4 years ago

Pull 120 and 121 and turn it on, leave the game on for 5-10 minutes, see if it blows. Turn off, plug 120 and 121 back in, turn on, if it blows, you have a short happening somewhere on the playfield (this seems likely based on your background to me).

#3 4 years ago

After you do what The_Director posted.

Things to consider - bad bulb, bad socket. Not always an obvious short.

When you do as he suggests, at least you narrow down some of it.

LTG : )™

#4 4 years ago

Did you put LEDs in the Gis? It's very rare, but I once had an LED which had some internal issue and was causing my machine to blow the fuse related with that strand. After a ton of troubleshooting, I started to pull LEDs and finally discovered the cause was in one of the bulbs. After replacing the LED, all was fine.

#5 4 years ago

Go look at every light on the playfield in that GI string. Inspect them thoroughly. Check for bent wire lugs that are touching each other or very close to touching (vibration might make them touch intermittently), a loose socket that is moving during the vibration of gameplay and touching something near it, any of the wires frayed or being pinched by another component near by, a wire surrounding any of those GI sockets that has come off another component and touching the socket. A solder splash on or inside the socket could do it too. Take out the light in each socket and really inspect the inside for any solder splash, metal shaving, etc. My buddy had that happen on his TZ and it would the GI fuse intermittently and it was very hard to spot the tiny splash of solder inside the socket deep in the cracks. If you have to, you can desolder each socket one at a time starting from the last one in the daisy chain and moving up the chain until it no longer blows. That's how I found his bad socket on his TZ....was very hard to spot, even knowing it was the socket causing the problem.

#6 4 years ago

Do the coin door lights go out with that fuse blowing?

#7 4 years ago

thanks guys for the ideas/help

crud- this is probably going to be a big sleuth job! ahhh

I tend to think not a prob with the bulbs themselves as it was blow like this when I got it...

didn't look at coin door lights.. hum

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from pinnaf:

crud- this is probably going to be a big sleuth job!

A bit of work unless you get lucky.

LTG : )™

4 months later
#9 3 years ago

4 MONTHS REMOVED... and I finally got time to REALLY investigate every socket -- YEP 4mo....!

pulled every socket on that GI string that was blowing the fuse dedicated to that line...... pulled out ever bulb... and THERE IT WAS... a solder lug/pin that was pushed back touching the bottom of the bulb housing. I have no idea how that happened.. or it just finally got close enough that I make the assumption that it was causing the short!

YES YES YES.. we have light!

went I went to start in on it though... I checked for "fuse 120 and fuse 121" that I as directed to pull first then turn game on and then off and check to see if prob on board or playfield..... and lone behold. I CANT FIND OR DONT SEE WHERE FUSE #120 or #121 are on the TAF!!!!!!

bottom line - problem solved - I think.. I have yet to play 10 games to MAKE SURE

but thanks for all your help Pinside.. and it took 4 months for me to get off my ass! but hey I wasn't going to start in on it and just rush - I took my time and dedicated a night to it!

TAF is back at 100%!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from pinnaf:

4 MONTHS REMOVED... and I finally got time to REALLY investigate every socket -- YEP 4mo....!
pulled every socket on that GI string that was blowing the fuse dedicated to that line...... pulled out ever bulb... and THERE IT WAS... a solder lug/pin that was pushed back touching the bottom of the bulb housing. I have no idea how that happened.. or it just finally got close enough that I make the assumption that it was causing the short!
YES YES YES.. we have light!
went I went to start in on it though... I checked for "fuse 120 and fuse 121" that I as directed to pull first then turn game on and then off and check to see if prob on board or playfield..... and lone behold. I CANT FIND OR DONT SEE WHERE FUSE #120 or #121 are on the TAF!!!!!!
bottom line - problem solved - I think.. I have yet to play 10 games to MAKE SURE
but thanks for all your help Pinside.. and it took 4 months for me to get off my ass! but hey I wasn't going to start in on it and just rush - I took my time and dedicated a night to it!
TAF is back at 100%!

Congrats! Light socket problems can be the most painful thing to diagnose.

The fuse #'s you got were wrong. I'm sure the reference is the CONNECTORs J120 and J121. These are for the GI string of wires, are on all the time, so if the game is on location - these were the connectors that always had current through them and they'd burn the plastic connectors. Also, the wires were too thin, and should have been a thicker gauge. I have redone my Addams with 18 guage wiring, new molex connectors and its working fine. It will probably never again get the stress of being on 12+hours a day, because it will probably never leave my collection.

Hope that clears up the references.

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