(Topic ID: 222087)

TAF CPR PF Swap Issues

By LilRocky

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by pintechev
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

I just started a pf swap on my TAF to one of the CPR repros, and I'm running into a lot of differences with hole sizes and also have a few alignment questions.

Starting with the hole sizes, all of my bumper post holes are way too small, making me need to drill them larger. Is this normal? I've done a pf swap on TOTAN in the past and, aside from drilling dimples for wood screws, I don't remember having to drill so many post holes. I've attached two photos showing one of the larger drilled holes for a post, yet you can see where the hole is only big enough for the threaded section of the post. Across my pf, there are other holes which are even smaller than this, yet require parts with similar sized screw-bases as the bumper post.

On another note, I've found hole alignment issues with some of the longer parts that mount to the pf, such as metal guide brackets and even the outer wood rails. So far, the biggest difference I've found is to the metal guide that leads to the center ramp shot. My two holes are way off from the size of the metal guide, yet what's now confusing me even more is that when I look at my old pf, I see the same original dimples that my CPR pf has. I've attached a picture of my old pf to clarify this, where the top and bottom holes are what match my new CPR pf, but you can see on this pic where the metal guide runs from the bottom hole to that middle one, which does not exist on my new pf.

While I can continue drilling this pf, I'm starting to worry that my original pf is possibly using different parts. I'm basically looking for someone to tell me, "this is normal," before I continue this restoration. This is also a GOLD quality CPR PF, so I'm assuming it's passed all of CPR's inspection standards...although there are several small art blemishes, but not gonna cry over them.

If there's another thread about this, please just send me a link and I'll read over things there.

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#2 5 years ago

Over 20,000 tafs made means lots of variation from the factory.

I previously swapped a factory original taf pf that was in a junked game into my game. There were many differences in alignment and fit between the two originals.

With a game this big and multiple pf manufacturers back in the day that supplied B/W, there will be some differences in parts used over the whole run and of course to any new pf reproduction. Just gotta go slow and compare twice,measure three times, and drill once when needed.

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Over 20,000 tafs made means lots of variation from the factory.
I previously swapped a factory original taf pf that was in a junked game into my game. There were many differences in alignment and fit between the two originals.
With a game this big and multiple pf manufacturers back in the day that supplied B/W, there will be some differences in parts used over the whole run and of course to any new pf reproduction. Just gotta go slow and compare twice,measure three times, and drill once when needed.

Yeah, this is what I'm figuring is the issue, that different parts were being used over time due to availability, expense, and whatever else. With that said, is there an original parts list? If I could just get the right parts this pf was made for, especially for the posts, I'd rather go that route than drilling out numerous holes and possibly chipping the clear.

#4 5 years ago

Take a look at the TAF thread High_End_Pins posted. There were a few corrections/adjustments that needed to be done.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-taf-with-cpr-pf

Non-cpr restoration: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-taf-restoration

#5 5 years ago

Whysnow while that is all very true, I'm looking at the pics shown and it does not look like LilRocky cleared out the clearcoat from the holes which of course would make them tighter. Ron Kruzman talks about this in his topics and sells a kit to prep these holes.
I'm not sure you can take any repro playfield out of the box and just do a swap without some prep work first.
-Mike

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

whysnow while that is all very true, I'm looking at the pics shown and it does not look like lilrocky cleared out the clearcoat from the holes which of course would make them tighter. Ron Kruzman talks about this in his topics and sells a kit to prep these holes.
I'm not sure you can take any repro playfield out of the box and just do a swap without some prep work first.
-Mike

It's definitely not the clear that's the issue, as the hole I'm showing in particular is the largest of them all, which is not tight, but just not open enough for a fit. I've had some holes that I've had to go up 5 bit sizes to make a part fit snug.

#7 5 years ago

If anyone has a roached TAF pf, I'm looking for a cheap wall hanger. PM with offers.

#8 5 years ago

Opening up the holes is a normal part of doing a swap. I had to do it on my Mirco CV but not as often on the NOS TAF last year. Posts should be snug but not tight that you have to hammer them in crazy hard. Trust me on that last one - light tapping OK - hammering, you’ll regret...

#9 5 years ago

Also, when in doubt, take tracing paper and use that as your guide. The dimples are there from the original designs but the factory workers often tweaked things over the run of the game. If you read enough HEP threads, you will see him measure and use the original PF as the design of record.

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