Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992I never has to troubleshoot the opto's before. I was under the impression that either it worked or it didn't. I got an error at boot up saying that optos 1 through 4 was not working, so I ordered a new top and bottom opto boards and replaced them. After replacement, it still didn't register in the switch test. I also checked the opto board under the playfield and I can see the red light is on.
Any suggestions?
Broken common wire on column 5? Green / black trace. Shooter lane is involved I'd have a look see on that. But check your matrix chart for a couple of others in that column chain.
I can trigger the other switches in column 5 and they work fine. I don't see any broken wires and broken/cracked diodes.
All 10 wires toned out good.
What's the best way to test the opto board that is under the playfield?
I am able to short the anode to the optos on the opto board and get them to show up on the switch test. But still unable to trip the opto's on the bookcase.
Edit: I also got 13.6vdc at the bookcase. I'm starting to think that I got some bad parts.
I did the test as described on the PinWiki site and I was not able to trigger a signal on the switch test. I had some LM339AN on hand so I when ahead and removed the old chips and I lost two pads. 
I install 2 sockets to replace the removed chips and tested continuity on all pins.
I installed the LM339AN chips and I now have a "Ground Short, Row 3" displayed on the switch test. I removed the chips and hook the opto board back up and the error when away.
Do I have the wrong chips, do I have another problem or did I just mess up the board.
Just to clarify, I don't know if the bookcase has ever worked. The game is fairly new to me and when I did realize that I had a problem, I found J3 connector removed from the opto board and started troubleshooting from there.
Quoted from Brewchap:I did the test as described on the PinWiki site and I was not able to trigger a signal on the switch test. I had some LM339AN on hand so I when ahead and removed the old chips and I lost two pads.
I install 2 sockets to replace the removed chips and tested continuity on all pins.
I installed the LM339AN chips and I now have a "Ground Short, Roll 3" displayed on the switch test. I removed the chips and hook the opto board back up and the error when away.
Do I have the wrong chips, do I have another problem or did I just mess up the board.
Just to clarify, I don't know if the bookcase has ever worked. The game is fairly new to me and when I did realize that I had a problem, I found J3 connector removed from the opto board and started troubleshooting from there.
Just replace the opto board?
5.9.1.1 WPC 7 Opto Board Problems
What Goes Wrong?
The resistor discoloration is cosmetic, and rarely causes problems. The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced.
If the short was from the 70V supply, multiple LM339s may be damaged.
Replacing LM339s on these boards needs to be done carefully, as it is easy to lift traces and pull the through-hole plating. Always socket replaced ICs.
I just found this, so I'm going to replace the diodes and see what happens.
I'm not getting very far on this and I just realized that Attack From Mars has the same opto board. So I'm going to pull that out and use it for testing.
So what's the problem? The optos don't register in switch test? Or the bookcase test does not work? To me, it's unclear what your problem is.
Quoted from Brewchap:The optos do not register in the switch test
So go back and do the Pinwiki test.
Potential analysis:
NOTE: This assumes you have isolated the problem to the 7-opto board. The problem could be somewhere else (such as the CPU board). Don't shoot from the hip. Divide and conquer.
Quoted from DumbAss:So go back and do the Pinwiki test.
Proceed to switch edge (T.1) test.
Short the C to each individual E on J2.
Record whether the switch registers as closed and then open.
Report your findings.Potential analysis:
If all switches register then you have a problem with the opto pair (either transmitter to receiver or both).
If some of the switches register then you have to figure out where in the switch state logic detection the problem is.
If none of the switches register then you have a fundamental problem. Such as no power to the board or broken wire.NOTE: This assumes you have isolated the problem to the 7-opto board. The problem could be somewhere else (such as the CPU board). Don't shoot from the hip. Divide and conquer.
All switches register in the PinWiki switch edge test.
I also tested the voltage according to PinWiki and it tested correct. 13.4 vdc
Like you said above that if all switches register, then there is a problem with the opto pair. But, I just replaced the pair as the 1st troubleshooting step that I did. I also double checked with the pictures that I took before removal of the wires and they are wired the correct way.
I also toned out the wires from the opto board connector to the opto pairs themselves. I got power to the opto (dark lens). I can even register the opto on the switch test at the opto's itself with a jumper.
Quoted from Brewchap:All switches register in the PinWiki switch edge test.
If the switches are open and then close (register) when you short the pins and then open when you remove the short then there's nothing wrong with the logic detection. It MUST be the opto pair.
I assume the other opto pairs controlled by the 7-opto board register correctly. This would be switch 57 (Bumper Lane Opto).
Quoted from Brewchap:But, I just replaced the pair as the 1st troubleshooting step that I did. I also double checked with the pictures that I took before removal of the wires and they are wired the correct way.
This assumes that the components are installed correctly.
Most board manufacturers don't provide the datasheet of the component they installed on the board.
You can use a camera without an IR filter to verify the transmitters are working. Try the "selfie" camera on a phone. It should show something. To check the receiver, use a DMM and measure the DC voltage at the emitter. This should nominally be 12V if the transmitter is producing IR light that is falling on the phototransistor.
Quoted from DumbAss:I assume the other opto pairs controlled by the 7-opto board register correctly. This would be switch 57 (Bumper Lane Opto).
Yes, this works
Quoted from DumbAss:You can use a camera without an IR filter to verify the transmitters are working. Try the "selfie" camera on a phone. It should show something. To check the receiver, use a DMM and measure the DC voltage at the emitter. This should nominally be 12V if the transmitter is producing IR light that is falling on the phototransistor
Will report back on this.
This is where I got the opto pair: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15017-18
20230210_201041.jpg20230210_201053.jpgQuoted from DumbAss:You can use a camera without an IR filter to verify the transmitters are working. Try the "selfie" camera on a phone. It should show something.
I'm not sure if I'm doing the "selfie" right, or even know if there is an IR filter on the phone. But, I don't see anything, even if I take a picture. Sorry that I don't understand. (In case you ask. I have a Samsung S21 Ultra) I don't see anything like I saw on PinWiki with a blue glow? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:OptoTestingWithDigitalCamera.jpg
Quoted from DumbAss:To check the receiver, use a DMM and measure the DC voltage at the emitter. This should nominally be 12V if the transmitter is producing IR light that is falling on the phototransistor.
If I Googled right, the phototransistor is the dark LED. It has 13.7 vdc just as the "emitter" does. Both side have 13.7 vdc.
Quoted from Brewchap:This is where I got the opto pair: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15017-18
It's not the opto board for the bookcase but it is very similar.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doctor-who-owners-clubtime-lords-welcome?tq=gulf&tu=
Scroll through. If you want to read less then start reading about post #5190. As mentioned, it isn't the same (it's the Doctor Who MPF) but the BOARDS are by the same manufacturer. This is NOT the first time that I have had to provide support for their product.
Quoted from Brewchap:I'm not sure if I'm doing the "selfie" right, or even know if there is an IR filter on the phone. But, I don't see anything, even if I take a picture. Sorry that I don't understand. (In case you ask. I have a Samsung S21 Ultra) I don't see anything like I saw on PinWiki with a blue glow? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:OptoTestingWithDigitalCamera.jpg
If you see a blue glow then you have IR light being emitted. If you don't see a blue glow you cannot draw any conclusion. It could be the emitter does not work or it could be the wavelength is being blocked by your camera. Try BOTH cameras (the regular and the selfie). If you want to check against a control (known good) then point the camera at the Bumper Lane Opto transmitter that you know works and see if your camera detects it.
Quoted from Brewchap:Quoted from DumbAss:
I assume the other opto pairs controlled by the 7-opto board register correctly. This would be switch 57 (Bumper Lane Opto).
Yes, this works
I spoke to soon, This is not working. I must have been hitting the wrong switch. I assumed that I was and did not look at the switch test to verify while doing so. Sorry I wasted your time, and I very much appreciate your help.
Quoted from Brewchap:Yes, this works
Will report back on this.
This is where I got the opto pair: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15017-18[quoted image][quoted image]
I had an issue with a pair of them from there too. I think the receiver board. They had the manufacturer send me a new set. Customer wanted all new so thought I was doing a favor but should have just gone with original and new opto parts that were bad and used original boards.
Quoted from DumbAss:If you see a blue glow then you have IR light being emitted. If you don't see a blue glow you cannot draw any conclusion. It could be the emitter does not work or it could be the wavelength is being blocked by your camera. Try BOTH cameras (the regular and the selfie). If you want to check against a control (known good) then point the camera at the Bumper Lane Opto transmitter that you know works and see if your camera detects it.
DumbAss Thank you for taking your time and effort to teach me how to work this problem. I learned a lot from of this troubleshooting experience.
I wanted to mark this thread resolved and what I did to resolve the problem:
Changed the LM339AN's on the Opto Board, fixed the issue of not being able to trigger a signal on the switch test during testing.
I also had a problem with the Opto Board and I ended up replacing the 100uf/35VDC to fix a "Jitter" problem.
Replaced the the transmitter and receiver (in pairs) using QED123 and QSD124 on the Bookcase and the Bumper Lane optos to fix the final issue.
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Dorset, VT
Vancouver, BC
