(Topic ID: 251547)

TAF Addams Family WPC no 5v


By Haidon

4 months ago



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  • 11 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by monkfe
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#1 4 months ago

I've had this game for almost 20 years now. I had some of the reset issues at a previous residence due to line voltage issues, but otherwise, it's been a solid machine.

Last night, I went to power it up, and barely got into the boot process before it 'shut off.' Power was still there, could hear the speakers working, but no actual sounds. Turning off and back on, you can hear power being applied, but no "POST beep" and D19, 20 and 21 are off. LED 2 and 3 on the power driver board are off as well.

My voltages on the power/driver board:

TP1: 15.03
TP2: .2 (<--- yeah, makes me sad)
TP3: 11.86
TP4: 1.62
TP6: 74.7
TP7: 22.16

I tried unplugging all ribbon cables from the MPU, no change. I also unplugged/reseated J101, J102, J114 on the power board, and J210 on the MPC, no change.

I found a blown fuse (F113). 5A, 250V. I replaced, and got a short sound out of the speakers, and the fuse blew pretty much instantly. Anyone got an idea of where I should start looking to find the cause? The machine hasn't been moved, and no work has been done on it, excepting my checks after this issue cropped up.

#2 4 months ago
Quoted from Haidon:

Anyone got an idea of where I should start looking to find the cause?

Pull the driver board and check bridge rectifier 2 and see if it's shorted.

LTG : )

#3 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Pull the driver board and check bridge rectifier 2 and see if it's shorted.
LTG : )

Eureka!

Well, maybe not eureka, since I have to (presumably)replace BR2. But still, definite issue here. Black arrow to red arrow, diode test gave me a 0. Also, with black on the odd leg and red where the black arrow is started super low and slowly climbed to 4.75, but took almost 30 seconds.

Also, note the HORRIBLE solder joints on BR3. The ones on BR4 aren’t exactly pretty either.

As for BR3, the pad on the underside of the board is gone on the odd leg. Also, check the 2nd pic. The trace on BR3’s odd leg is way up off the board.

I have fair soldering skills, so it looks like time to replace some bridge rectifiers.

Thanks for the help thus far. So, am I correct to assume that it's time to replace BR2?

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2 weeks later
#4 3 months ago

Fuse replaced, BR1 and BR2 replaced. Took so long because I didn’t have a big enough tip for my desoldering gun.

The fuse doesn’t blow any longer, but the game still won’t boot. D21 lights, but not D19 or D20.

TP2 has much better voltage, though maybe still a bit low. Perhaps I should go back in and replace the caps for BR1/2 as well?

Voltages:
TP1:14.57
TP2: 4.85
TP3: 11.85
TP4: 0.88
TP6: 72.8
TP7: 21.35

(I chose not to mess with BR 3. That raised trace scares me a bit. )

#5 3 months ago

I don't have a manual in front of me but off the top of my head there is a flasher power supply (20v?) and the lamp power supply (18v), you seem to be missing one of them...I'll guess another cap and or bridge is shot....check them all...also that 5v seems a bit low....change those caps while your in there...

#6 3 months ago

Any burnt/tarnished pins on J101, especially of the 2 red wires? This the 5v coming in from the transformer.

#7 3 months ago

On J101, pin 1 is a bit dark. The other pins are nice and shiny. The IDC that connects to it is a bit brown where pin 1 connects to it.

#8 3 months ago

I went through, replaced the other 3 bridge rectifiers, and all 5 caps. I also cleaned up pin 1 on J101. I’m still getting 4.85 on the 5v line. Checking the voltage on J101 at pin 1 I get 6.3v.

I really appreciate all the ideas. Anybody got another? Am I down to replacing LM323K and/or C31?

#9 3 months ago

Problem with the new LM323k parts is that most are coming from China and are either DOA or you will have even a lower 5volts, so the game may not even boot.

Better alternative is this one and I suggest upping it to 5.1v.
https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html

#10 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Problem with the new LM323k parts is that most are coming from China and are either DOA or you will have even a lower 5volts, so the game may not even boot.

This guy has NOS originals for sale:
ebay.com link

#11 3 months ago

If C31 is the small electrolytic on the 5v supply, I have heard of that cap going bad and causing issues....I did install those newer 5V regulators on my board, but both died and I went back to my originals....

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