I use the EXACT same setup...

Got mine from Kragen on a clearance for 20% off $99!

Just remove the retarded handlebars and it makes a perfect dolly

I bought a Sears Craftsman motorcycle lift. Then my wonderful GF found a weldement bracket that a guy on the net makes that fits that exact model. <$150 total Best BDay ever. My back thanks her.

If interested mail me and I will ask her this evening if she remembers where she bought the bracket.

Works great and lets the machine down nice and slow.

This may be of some use to anyone looking to go this route. I've seen this setup in person and it worked very well.

http://www.pinballlifter.com/index.php/pinballlifter

Thanks Dude

That is the exact item I was speaking of. Then went to sears and found the motorcycle dolly on sale under $100. It works great never had any trouble. (except that my truck is about 2 inches too high)

I could put shims in on the jack side but my son and I just lift the last little bit to get it in.

It looks like either the price went up or she fibbed to me about how much it cost.

Either way very well built product and has a nice thick powder coat on the outside.

About the thickness of bedliner. As for the jack they make larger wheels to put on the front.
( I would highly recommend this)

I use this one from Harbor freight. Just wait for the monthly 20%off coupons.

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-lift-table-94822.html

I also have this one. You have to be careful the head side doesn't tip when up from the weight in the head. Having a longer board under or some long pieces of wood helps. I really just use mine when I'm moving games in and out because I have a narrow bottom area by my basement staircase. Otherwise the dolly and game won't fit in the area.

I copied this guy:

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/dolly/dolly.html

It includes the tilt bed and it only costs about $130 with all the wood and the lift when purchased on sale.

The harbor freight hydraulic table is probably the best $$ I've spent on pin related stuff. I also have pin skates and those are great to take along when buying a pin and you need all your vehicle space for the pin itself.

+1 . Had to buy a second one so I could have one upstairs and one down. It also doubles as a great stand for the little ones to play from.

Made cart for a motorcycle jack, has nice large wheels, dheck it out here on pinside
https://www.google.com/url?q=http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/motorcycle-jack-used-for-pin-mover&sa=U&ei=E3KUT_-ZI-L66QGb7Oy6BA&ved=0CAsQFjAD&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNGlk0e04XW1ELhx2rqxwHfow2rFWQ

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000VIC49Q/newcodeaz-20

Mine is like this one. Use it all the time. Easy to move the pins within a room.

That's what I'm using as well. Had to put hinges on it to get the handle out of the way (to allow for the lift to be well under the pin) and works very well. Got the idea from novarcade:

When you do it you will need to loosen the nut on bottom of lift securing the wire that runs to the release handle. You need to give the wire the right amount of slack so handle can go up and down without lowering the lift but tight enough to drop the lift with handle up a bit and release handle squeezed. Not too tough but will take some effort.

Lift as is with fixed straight handle does not allow you to place lift under the pin enough to maximize stability IMO. The hinge allows you to fold handle down and store lift under a machine which is nice.

I have the HF cart and mounted an extended platform on it.

I prefer the handle fixed so I can push and pull without risk of hitting the cab. I still need to do a pipe bending to about 45 degrees as verticle doesn't allow me to center the pin's weight enough. If I lift from the rear with the head down it works best for now.

Couldn't move a pin easily without it.

saw this same cart mentioned 2 or 3 more times but Dude posted the weldement bracket for me.

I have this and still think it is the best setup you can get.

http://www.pinballlifter.com/index.php/pinballlifter

It gives you an extra foot and a half. Unsure how wood would work well unless loading into a car.

I'm relatively new to pinball, and bought this one as well:
http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-lift-table-94822.html
works fantastic as long as you find the center of gravity with the backbox up ( usually come in on the rear ) and with the backbox down ( about center from the side ). The other issue is the rubber is not secured and it slides under the cabinet. I used velcro to hold it down and works great. Keep in mind only 2 wheels turn and the other 2 are straight. Still all in all this has made moving these beats a simple task.

I have the HF cart and mounted an extended platform on it.
I prefer the handle fixed so I can push and pull without risk of hitting the cab. I still need to do a pipe bending to about 45 degrees as verticle doesn't allow me to center the pin's weight enough. If I lift from the rear with the head down it works best for now.
Couldn't move a pin easily without it.

Here's a pic up my setup. Not the best pic, but you can see the platform I strapped to the HF cart. The other photo shows my Tron move through my kitchen ... it's better balanced when I grab it from the rear, but this works well enough. IMG_4612.jpg IMG_4615.jpg

Pinster68,

Is that a rotary phone on the wall? Old school!

Dan

This is the route I think I am going to go. The vendor is going to be at Allentown for those going.

Do you use yours on carpet or hardwood? Are you using it with the Craftsman cycle jack?

Dan

Yeah ... not hooked up. I'm a "phone guy" and it's part of my collection of old stuff.

That's a bad ass toaster!

I bought this exact one from Northern Tool in Feb 12' when I got my XF pin from a local seller.

I bought two adjustable straps from Target and used them on the length and width of
the pin when I moved it from the back of my Expedition onto the table. Strapped the pin
in tight and it rolled right through the front door perfect.

Great pick up today. Special thanks to the HF employee who gave me a 20% coupon upon checkout. All I did was ask. Has anyone bent the handles to accommodate a machine or just remove them.

Any active links to what you're referring to? Seems that the above links are no longer living. It sounds like something I'd like to do.

me too

If done right it works very well and allows you to fold handle over lift to store under a pin without having to constantly remove the handle. Far superior to the other ways I tried to use the lift before the mod. Just remember you will need to give the release wire (at bottom of lift) more slack (but not too much)by loosening the nut that is holding it in place adjusting then tightening in place again. This is to provide the necessary tension to release when trigger is pressed but loose enough not to drop lift when handle is raised/lowered.

Here is a picture of the lift with hinges that alexlevy was kind enough to post in another thread here on pinside:

Lift_with_hinges.JPG

I have this one as well and will be looking to mod the handle at a static 45 degree. I was going to use a hinge, but not sure I'd like it wobbling around too much. right now, i just lay the handle down to get under the machine enough to keep it balanced once off the floor.

If you only did 45 degree though, to try to tuck it farther under the cabinet (front/back) then you could only go so low with it (maybe not the concern.. other than if you want to lower it to work on it) before the cabinet will hit the handle.

I'm awaiting my 20% coupon.

where do we get these 20% coupons? i signed up for the email offers hoping to get one and it didnt come.

Think you have to join their inside track club ($$ per year, mine was $20).. Then you get the "good" coupons

Try this?

http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/campaigns/localmedia/general_june2012/images/22.jpg

Some HF's don't take the coupons as they say the coupon excuses these "tool carts". Just a heads up... Sucks! There were some smoking deals to be had on their nice large tool boxes and same issues and 20% really saves a bunch of dough!

If my math is correct, at 45 degree, i should be able to get it from 10.2 to 11.3 inches further under the machine, depending on cabinet/leveler height. With the handle on and vertical, the table can just get most machines off the ground (precarious balance) with the head down, but won't lift the back if the head is up. Gaining the 10 or so inches may well get it to lift the feet when the head is up. If not, I have a few minor tweaks in mind that'd help it along.

right, my thing was getting the machine lower than leg height (i.e., legs off). I've seen people take advantage of this to do some work inside machines where having it lower isn't as hard on your back (depending on how short you are) trying to bend over a machine at full height / could sit on a chair and get into the machine. It's just in that case having the arm go full flat would be advantage. If you only wanted this to move machines, yes no need to worry about it.

Just picked up one yesterday. Googled HF coupon and some generator made one for me. They scanned it and I got the 500 lb lift and a die grinder kit for under 150. Now to 'mod' the handles.