Man, what a great job. Pretty soon we may hear someone describing a game with the phrase "Thats a nice restoration, not a Sammons, but still very nice"
(Topic ID: 197932)
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Terminator 2: Judgment Day
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Quoted from Soulrider911:Power supply is in and Getting ready to move the playfield in this beast
Is that Powercoat or paint? Looks good either way!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Old mpu board repair time. Going to be like new. Thanks to dumbass for pointing me in the right direction
How come you're not using the rotten dog board?
Quoted from Soulrider911:Not awesome, so far this playfield has posed challenge after challenge. Next up try to resolve left outline being too tight due to inaccurate dimpling in the playfield
Damn. How do you solve it?
Quoted from Soulrider911:timberone oh I am using the rotten dog one. I fixed the old one and put it on eBay works like new!
That board is still full of corrosion that will only get worse with time. Please list accurately
Quoted from Soulrider911:Not awesome, so far this playfield has posed challenge after challenge. Next up try to resolve left outline being too tight due to inaccurate dimpling in the playfield
That sucks, man! Hope you fix it soon!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Finally got my side rails, so threw on the glass guides and the rails. this thing is really starting to look amazing
So beautiful! Please, stop! I'm so jealous already...
Quoted from Soulrider911:Not awesome, so far this playfield has posed challenge after challenge. Next up try to resolve left outline being too tight due to inaccurate dimpling in the playfield
That seems like a serious issue 
Quoted from KornFreak28:That seems like a serious issue
Perhaps its as easy as slightly elongating the hole the ball guide goes through and move it ever so slightly. It wont take much clearance for the ball to pass...
Soulrider911 look at your ball guide almost touching the insert...
You can see it should be a little to the left, exposing most of the insert ring...
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But it looks as the ball guide is tight to the rail, hmmm.
Are those the original rails?
flynnibus thankyou for your insight, I have th board in my hand and as far as "full of corrosion" I have to disagree. And it is listed accurately, with detailed photos,with a 14 return policy. I don't "need" the money... but I know people want these boards. So please advise me on what is best.
Quoted from Soulrider911:flynnibus thankyou for your insight, I have th board in my hand and as far as "full of corrosion" I have to disagree. And it is listed accurately, with detailed photos,with a 14 return policy. I don't "need" the money... but I know people want these boards. So please advise me on what is best.
You will need that board in the future, hold on to it.
Quoted from Soulrider911:flynnibus thankyou for your insight, I have th board in my hand and as far as "full of corrosion" I have to disagree. And it is listed accurately, with detailed photos,with a 14 return policy. I don't "need" the money... but I know people want these boards. So please advise me on what is best.
I think he is getting at the subsurface corrosion, i.e. the dark areas. These have not been neutralized so may corrode away again and cause issues in the future. The board still has value but it takes quite a bit of time to properly neutralize and clean corrosion to prevent it for good.
snakesnsparklers thanks for the clarification, whats the best way to neutralize it? From what I gather vinegar helps?
Quoted from Soulrider911:timberone oh I am using the rotten dog one. I fixed the old one and put it on eBay works like new!
Have you asked the of manufacturer about the the fault of the lane? Are all pf affected? What is he’s advice?
Quoted from Soulrider911:snakesnsparklers thanks for the clarification, whats the best way to neutralize it? From what I gather vinegar helps?
You need to remove all the components on the dark areas of the board, remove the green solder mask (typically by sanding it off) then neutralize to board with vinegar. Replace the mask on the bare copper traces (finger nail polish works nicely) or apply solder to prevent oxidation. Repair any traces that were eaten away, replace the components. Done!
Quoted from Schwaggs:You need to remove all the components on the dark areas of the board, remove the green solder mask (typically by sanding it off) then neutralize to board with vinegar. Replace the mask on the bare copper traces (finger nail polish works nicely) or apply solder to prevent oxidation. Repair any traces that were eaten away, replace the components. Done!
Easy! 
Quoted from Soulrider911:flynnibus thankyou for your insight, I have th board in my hand and as far as "full of corrosion" I have to disagree
As others have already echo'd - It's still an issue. It's all over U16, U20, the resistor sets above and below U20.. the battery terminals.. the traces are showing signs of corrosion under the mask, and more. Just because the game boots does not mean it's fixed when it comes to dealing with acid corrosion. That board really needs to be depopulated in those areas, sanded, neutralized, and repop'd. That part of the board is also delicate to work on, so it's not for the timid. My point was please don't think just because it boots, it's 100%... and be sure to list it appropriately knowing and documenting the damage. It will become flakey moving forward if that corrosion is not eliminated and the board repaired.
flynnibus I agree with you just cause it boots does not mean it will last forever and to be clear... I was not selling a "flawless reconditioned board" Neither was I hiding anything.... it was as is? Not sure if you are trying to help me or get into a semantics debate. I appreciate all your insights. The listing has been removed, dunzo back to the restore
tezting I think you will be good.. it just took a little tweaking... you have one of these playfields correct?
Quoted from Soulrider911:. it just took a little tweaking...
So its all good now?
Quoted from Soulrider911:tezting I think you will be good.. it just took a little tweaking... you have one of these playfields correct?
Yes. That’s why I follow your thread extra close. Need to know what’s ahead.
tezting my suggestion is to test a ball through both the inner and out lanes when installing the lane guide, that way you can tweak as needed. Literally, a millimeter difference can affect the ball passing through or not. Overall the Playfield is pretty nice,,, I hope yours has a harder clear coat than mine does.
Right when I thought I was ready to play a game for the first time, i fire it up... the dreaded "check Fuse F114 & F115" message. I'm consistently blowing F114. So according to PinWiki, sounds like the Bridge Rectifier BR01, going to test tonight with my DMM. But probably will need help I'm still new to multimeters.
1 month later
It’s alive!! And everything works. Needs a few tweaks here and there. Had to adjust the ball launch guide so the ball hits the center target.
Still need to adjust back lock, ball keeps getting rejected other than that it’s looks just beautiful so pleased
Hey guys thanks so much for filling my build, I love sharing with everyone.
I will absolutely post a ton of pics, just waiting on my chrome lockdown bar (current one separated) but I have to say out of my games it’s by far the most eye pleasing!
Hi,
Could you please share what exact holes where missing?
I will tell Peter so that next run of playfields will not have the same mistakes. Hope you will help future buyers ☺️
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey there tezting sure see attached image, it was a GI hole, fairly large miss IMO.
Wow!
What about under the playfield? Where all pre drilled holes there?
1 month later
Well it’s been a while since I posted here. Some bad news... well, almost broke my heart lol. Had some friends over around Christmas to celebrate the finishing of T2. Game plays amazing!!! I have it so dialed.
So I walk in the morning after - mind you the game only got about 25 plays as I have 2 others - and I see this:
pay close attention to the advance, jackpot, and lite return lanes. MASSIVE ghosting. My heart basically broke. 
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D4F6F740-79B5-4A33-A938-D47F45E02039 (resized).jpeg
I have since talked with peter at Buthamburg, and he could. It have been nicer. Said he has not seen this at all. Turns out s few others did have this issue. He is sending me a brand new playfield, which I am very thankful for.... however I wish I did a ball test beforehand, I am NOT looking forward to doing this all again, as I’m also right in the middle of a fish tales restoration. But as they say shit happens, I’ll get er dialed back in.
Hey cosmokramer from I have been told you can test by simply dropping a ball on the playfield from about 6 inches up, ghosting will happen almost immediately.
I have not heard of CPR or micro Having this issue... basically dewaxing cleaner and or just not cleaning the inserts properly can result in ghosting as the clear does not adhere properly. <- that is per Ron Kruzman. I have a fish tales CPR and it’s fine. I dropped a ball in a few spots (not directly on the inserts)
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