(Topic ID: 197932)
Linked Games
Terminator 2: Judgment Day
Williams, 1991
Topic Gallery
Walnut Creek, CA
Spent all evening cleaning and rebuilding the pop bumpers. The playfield needed a slight countersink drilling for the pop bumper fin shank screws. Also re wired the lighting, and finally added some awesome metallic stickers to the po bumper caps.
Also had some chroma pinball nuts lying around figured why not
Looking Better than new!
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Quoted from Soulrider911:Spent all evening cleaning and rebuilding the pop bumpers. The playfield need a slight drilling for the pop bumper bolts. Also requires the lighting, and finally added some awesome metallic stickers to the po bumper caps. Looking Better than new!
Looking good.
What drill did you use? I am not looking forward drilling in mine..
Nice, nice, nice.
How did you recreate the serial number tag?
Are you cleaning the boards? With what? Do you guys think deionized water (pure) would work? I think mfg use this for final cleaning.
Still waiting for cab decals to start mine
I am planning on adding t-molding to the backbox. I hate the end grain plywood look. New games use this. I dont know how others feel about that but i think will be a nice enhancement.
tezting u know what... I actually did not need to drill... I think you can get away with not drilling if you use the right fin shank screws.
The originals have a very shallow depth top. If you end up drilling I used a pretty small countersink bit. You only need to just graze the surface... I actually drilled a tiny bit too deep.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Annnnd this just happened cracked the surface trying to install those stupid metal dowels my heart just broke a little
Does the tip of the flipper hide it? If it does you will never see it.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Annnnd this just happened cracked the surface trying to install those stupid metal dowels my heart just broke a little
what happened? Was it to tight?
Quoted from Soulrider911:My suggestion don't even install them, I have never understood what they are for Anyway
Can you tell what went wrong? That might help prevent others to do the same mistake ☺️
tezting ya I was simply tapping it in with a hammer. However bring that they are compression dowels I did not pre drill as I assume they are supposed to fit right,,, but this playfield with the added clear coat made the tolerances too tight and crack city. That being said slightly open the holes more if you plan to install them. Again I have zero clue what purpose they serve
Quoted from Soulrider911:tezting ya I was simply tapping it in with a hammer. However bring that they are compression dowels I did not pre drill as I assume they are supposed to fit right,,, but this playfield with the added clear coat made the tolerances too tight and crack city. That being said slightly open the holes more if you plan to install them. Again I have zero clue what purpose they serve
Spot to align the flippers. Put a toothpick in the hole... not sure why they 'invested' in putting the pins in tho.
Quoted from Malenko:I always thought they were they to stop death saves/ bang backs.
Flipper alignment was what I assumed.
Almost all the ball guides are in. Lots of drilling required to make all the various posts and hardware fit.
Wiring harness is complete, bulb boards back in with color matched 2SMD leds. Also lot the lock holes with red bendies.
Added mr. T1000, and a bunch of awesome chrome decals to the targets. Starting to look good!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Lots of drilling required to make all the various posts and hardware fit.
So the pre-drilled holes are not worth anything? 
Decals from RetroRefurbs look great!
Quoted from Soulrider911:post holes harness
Sorry for all the questions but you are helping me a lot. But what is that? I know What post...
tezting sorry typo, you will need to bore the post holes.
Quoted from Soulrider911:tezting the majority of the holes are ok... it's all the post holes that need to be bored. Also just an FYI I have noticed the clear coat is very soft and you can easily scratch it.
Took a break from the playfield today to put the decals on the backbox, they came out amazing! I know folks are indifferent on the chrome ed decals but for me... it's more terminating 
Quoted from Soulrider911:Took a break from the playfield today to put the decals on the backbox, they came out amazing! I know folks are indifferent on the chrome ed decals but for me... it's more terminating
Looks great! Is the warning decal also from the same supplier?
Yes! Pete @retrorefurbs. And they did a great job, it's a matte finish so it really retains the original look. I ordered one from some other seller for my POTC ( only seller I could find that makes stern ones ) and it came in gloss... never even put it on cause it would look terrible.
This one is awesome quality, and using a heat gun and a soft terry cloth you really get it bonded and free of defects.
I dont dislike the chrome ones, I just like the UV reactive stuff on the factory art.
I'm loving the dog photobombs, mine do the same thing.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Yes! Pete retrorefurbs. And they did a great job, it's a matte finish so it really retains the original look. I ordered one from some other seller for my POTC ( only seller I could find that makes stern ones ) and it came in gloss... never even put it on cause it would look terrible.
This one is awesome quality, and using a heat gun and a soft terry cloth you really get it bonded and free of defects.
Awesome, man! 
Can't wait to install mine! 
Minneapolispin yes sir Chroma Pinball: https://chromapinball.com/ they make tons of colors and both 6-32 and 8-32!!
Wescobar
Keep it up man. I am getting inspired to do mine.
I was going to do the chrome addition but decided to keep in the original theme with the flourescent colors, but i dont know if i will be able to get decals. Both themes look great.
Quoted from Soulrider911:minneapolispin yes sir Chroma Pinball: https://chromapinball.com/ they make tons of colors and both 6-32 and 8-32!! wescobar
Loved it! Just ordered a few too!
Hello hope all is well i have a t2 that I'm trying to restore but i could use a lot of help i never did a decal restoration. How do i sand the wood with out seeing scratches on the wood and how do i sand the wood filler and make the back box into a point because its kinda curved on my other machine but just to know. Also how did u get the decal for the back of the back box i need one i will pay you if u could get me one. If u respond to me to help another pinsider out it would be much appreciated thank you.
Quoted from Soulrider911:tezting the majority of the holes are ok... it's all the post holes that need to be bored. Also just an FYI I have noticed the clear coat is very soft and you can easily scratch it.
You should have waited like a month before you started putting top side stuff on, the star posts are really going to sink in. Love your resto.
man I don't want to speak ill of your talent because it is at a higher level than mine BUT why are you doing some of these cheesy T2 mods? i.e. the t1000, chrome bumper caps, and the lighted star posts.... No one is going to be able to see all of these nice parts and hard work when you blast the thing with UV light and put unicorn rainbow vomit GI lights everywhere... I know it's doing the work that you enjoy but, I feel like you're going to take away from the hard work by some of the mods you've done. I get it, it's yours, you're paying for it, do whatever you want but, man I would have liked to seen this one kept to the basics.
BTW I think your dog is shitting on the carpet
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Gremlin818 your in luck you can buy them right here: https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/wpc-backbox-warning-decal/ from
RetroRefurbs worth every penny, man i need to get on some kind of referral program with them
.
For your second question, I will try to document what it requires to get a smooth finish to your cabinet. In short heat gun and chisel to remove old decals. Then dhesive remover and a razor to scrape glue, Next then sand, then use wood filler to smooth any imperfections, then sand again, then paint the edges... finally light sand before applying decals. It sounds like a lot of work, and it can be. But the time you invest will show... my backbox looks pretty darn amazing... not perfect, but super smooth. Feel free PM me !
ypurchn totally with you I debated about the T1000 kinda looks like a tin can.. and I'm def NOT doing purple everywhere lol, just a few here and there to accent the plastics. and thank you for keeping me in check lol
Shipley
i have just finished my T2 chrome edition http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/coming-soon-t2-chrome-edition.36278/
if you need any help or advice feel free to pm me
Found some cool stainless steel T2 lane guides, installed cliffy protectors on all holes, polished the ramp supports and got th cannon wire form in
More backbox and cabinet fun, man these decals are looking good, and pretty proud of my wood filling skills, not bad for a first timer, the front looks smooth as butta
Once again pinball plating knocks it out of the park, their parts are more expensive with good reason
Quoted from Malenko:I always thought they were they to stop death saves/ bang backs.
the 'biff bars' as they are often called are for that. Guide rails that run the length of the flipper and only stand just above the playfield surface. The OP is talking about the rolled pins that are inserted into the PF near the flipper tips AFAIK
Quoted from Soulrider911:More backbox and cabinet fun, man these decals are looking good, and pretty proud of my wood filling skills, not bad for a first timer, the front looks smooth as butta
Once again pinball plating knocks it out of the park, their parts are more expensive with good reason
You may want to consider using metal stand-offs on your legs instead of the red plastic ones you are using. Especially with a freshly decal'd cabinet. They can still dig/pinch the decal. The standoffs keep the edge off entirely.
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