(Topic ID: 360242)

T2 > TP 6 reading75vdc (Not 50)

By SpaceTimeGuy

45 days ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 37 days ago by barakandl
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#1 45 days ago

Hi ... I have had a T2 for a couple months ... Recently, the trigger on gun is working intermittently ... It seems to work when the game is first turned on but as you play the game longer the trigger works less and less until not working at all (sometimes) .... Initially, I thought it was a bad switch to launch the ball ... but then started thinking maybe it was a power or board problem.

All LED's on board are working correctly (as it says in the owner's manual). TP1 is a little high at 15.7vdc (instead of 12vdc) .... TP 6 is 75vDC (instead of 50V) ... this is suppose to be a DC measurement correct ? Other TPs were good .... Could the trigger issue be related to the high 50Volts ?

Also, (not sure if related) the lights for the white arrow inserts (for stand up targets on left side of PF) started working intermittently after playing a few games ... and I noticed the left red eye light in skull went out after a few games but was on when I turned game on the next day ... Including this info in case all of these could be related ??? (High 50V? (Board problem?) ... or Connector problem?

P.S. TP 4 didn't have a voltage listed in manual it said "ZC" so I didn't know how to test that ...

THANKS for any help?

#2 45 days ago

It's fine don't worry about it

Nothing to do with switches or lamps.

#3 45 days ago

There are 'unregulated' voltages in your pinball, and these run quite a bit higher than expected. The 50v coil power very commonly runs 70v plus. The unregulated 12v runs 16v. This is normal.

'ZC' is a weird board thing that you don't need to measure... it's not like voltage, it's a signal that the board uses, and while other people have had trouble with this circuit, I never have.

Lamp boards have connectors. With vibration the connectors break the solder connections where the pins for the connector go into the green lamp boards. The fix here is to take the board out of the game and re-solder the pins to the board with a tiny bit of fresh solder. Your eye bulb lamp may just need a fresh 555 bulb, with the wires at the bottom of the bulb moved around to make good connection. (There is a Tests-Test 10 - Lamps and Flashers that is helpful here...)

Inside the front door are some test switches. You need to find 'Tests', 'Test 01 - Switch edges'. Then you can pull the trigger and see if the computer is registering the switch properly.

It is very common for the switch to fail (you'll have to pull the 'gun' assembly off, take the two halves apart and replace the black microswitch to fix a bad switch). It's common for a wire to break to the trigger switch, this may involve pulling the gun assembly, but it might be visibly broken on the inside of your cabinet where the gun connects.

More rare is for the 'coin door interface board' to have soda or something else spilled on it on the inside left of your cabinet, and the switch connector contacts are crudded up. Soap and water for the board and connectors can help with this.

Finally, if your CPU board in the backbox has EVER had battery acid (alkaline) damage, it's possible that the computer board that registers the switches is damaged. I wouldn't expect this, but it's possible.

You are seeing a lot of separate problems, not probably a single problem. That's because your machine is 30+ years old, and things are needing attention now that a decade ago we didn't need to worry about.

Don't panic. Just fix the problems one by one.

Test mode is your friend.

Keep asking questions here.

Let us know what you find!

#4 45 days ago

PinRetail Thank You for detailed advice on all of my T2 issues ... I will take a look at things you recommended and report back !

#5 45 days ago

Always a good resource along with finding Pinside threads on these common items.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC

1 week later
#6 37 days ago

PinRetail

Sorry for delay in reporting back on my T2 problems ...

So I starting checking things you mentioned (details at end of this post) ... Then I had an idea > I have only had T2 for a few months ... A month or two ago I removed the battery on CPU and installed a remote AA battery holder ... (New battery holder did NOT have a diode installed on it) (MPU was clean / no battery corrosion) .... So I removed the batteries from new remote battery holder (in case that was causing problems) ... Then I had a thought > Is the diode only necessary when there was a rechargeable battery originally installed on the board ?

Anyway, after removing the AA batteries (I played the game on a couple different days) > I have NOT had any more problems with the trigger switch or the white lights under PF for stand up target bank ... I did reinstall the batteries and have played game on a couple/few more occasions ... On one occasion I did have an intermittent problem where the ball would get stuck under the apron and not kick out to shooter lane (evidently one of the switches wasn't registering) ... I have played the game on a couple occasions since then and had no problems ...

So ... I am not sure what is going on ... I am going to secure the remote battery holder to the bottom of the head (just in case it is moving around a little when I nudge the game) and pushing/pulling on wires to board connectors .... Unless anyone has suggestions > I will just play it and hope no more intermittent problems arise ...

P.S. Am I correct in my thinking about replacing battery on MPU > that only need a diode on wires to remote battery holder IF original battery was a rechargeable ? (T2 had AA batteries so don't need a diode to block electricity to the remote battery holder ??)

Coin door interface board looks like new ... I did switch edge Test and single switch Test and the trigger switch tested good (but trigger switch was working at the time)

THANK YOU!

#7 37 days ago

there is a capacitor that holds the voltage up. If that is out of circuit it measures closer to 50v.

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