(Topic ID: 251522)

T2 fuses 103 and 105 and display out.

By VolunteerPin

4 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by LTG
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 years ago

Help! My T2 has been playing okay except the skull drop target and gun switch we’re not working. Started troubleshooting that today and investigated (power off of course) and noticed a broken wire to the drop target. Easy fix. Resoldered it and turned game on. No display and some static type noises when I did turn on. Fuses 103 and 105 blown and ColorDMD out. Can hear menu selections but can’t see anything.

So, I desoldered that wire and put in new fuses. Same outcome.

More investigation (pin is new to me) revealed the pinstadium lights are anchored via alligator clips on a couple of flashers. (See photos).

I don’t understand why the display is out when neither fuse is responsible for the display and the fuses on the display board test fine.

My next thought is uninstalling the alligator clips since they are on flahlshers which I guess could potentially cause a short. I do not have but a few more fuses and so don’t want to guess and just keep blowing them.

I hope someone has some insight for my next move

Darin
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#2 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I hope someone has some insight for my next move

Undo this :

Quoted from VolunteerPin:

noticed a broken wire to the drop target. Easy fix. Resoldered it

Remove wire and tape the end so it doesn't short anything. Put in new fuses and try again. Maybe you stuck that broken wire in the wrong spot.

LTG : )

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Undo this :

Remove wire and tape the end so it doesn't short anything. Put in new fuses and try again. Maybe you stuck that broken wire in the wrong spot.
LTG : )

I did this minus the tape on the end. Fuses still blew. Additionally, that solenoid which I think is 28 shows a blue/yellow wire on the wire color chart. Besides there was no other wire connected to that post. Just a huge glob of Solder.

You think I should clean the crap off that post and try again? (See the second photo above)

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

You think I should clean the crap off that post and try again?

Yes, wire goes there.

What other short(s) you have in there and if they caused any damage, I have no idea.

LTG : )

#5 4 years ago

With ColorDMD the 100V supply on the display board is not used.

Carefully inspect all those alligator clips and make sure they are not shorting together. One of the worst ways to connect a mod.

Better yet, disconnect all the clips and clip them to the insulated wire (so you can remember where they go). Replace the fuses and see if the problem is resolved. Then cut off the alligator clips and solder the wires on at their proper positions.

#6 4 years ago

Will do that in a bit. I did resolder that wire. Fuses still blew. I like the idea with the alligator clips. Hopefully that will fix me.

#7 4 years ago

103 protects your flashers, likely the alligator clips on the flashers, maybe pulling too much current, maybe a short, they don’t look like they are connected very well, crossing over each other. 105 protects solenoids for the gun, among other things. You said you were fixing a switch for the gun so I’d go back and check your work there. Make sure nothing is touching the side of the cabinet when you lower the play field. As for why the dmd would be blank, that’s not entirely clear.

#8 4 years ago

I did move the alligator clips so they are now not attached. Still blew the fuses (lol, I'm running out...only a few more left).

I did mention the gun but I had not actually worked on it yet. Good thought on at least looking at it.

I noticed something I had not earlier. I guess I had not really paid attention. The board has a bunch of blackness to it and it looks like maybe a have a blown capacitor(s) (if that is correct terminology - I am terrible on board stuff) Could this simply be a board issue that I need to either get the board repaired or purchase a new Rottendog?
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You can see my blown F103 and F105 in the photo too.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I did move the alligator clips so they are now not attached. Still blew the fuses (lol, I'm running out...only a few more left).
I did mention the gun but I had not actually worked on it yet. Good thought on at least looking at it.
I noticed something I had not earlier. I guess I had not really paid attention. The board has a bunch of blackness to it and it looks like maybe a have a blown capacitor(s) (if that is correct terminology - I am terrible on board stuff) Could this simply be a board issue that I need to either get the board repaired or purchase a new Rottendog?
[quoted image]
You can see my blown F103 and F105 in the photo too.

As best I can tell, that looks to be driver Q20 that is toasty. That is the driver for the drop target coil you were working on. You will need to repair that part of your board.

Check the resistance of that coil. Check to see if there is a diode on that coil (there shouldn't be).

#10 4 years ago

Was the board over fused? Looks like some resistors almost caught on fire or something. The board is likely repairable but you need to clean that mess up and test some things.

#11 4 years ago

Send the board to ChrisHibler for repair. Send your MPU with it and have NVRAM installed.

#13 4 years ago

Okay. Thank you for that link! Chris has done repairs for me in the past maybe 5 years ago.

I think this makes sense with what I hear when I turn the game on as it does sound like a coil fires. Maybe we are on the right path.

I noticed when I was redoing the solder on the coil that I could not manually move the plunger and thought that was curious and wondered how the standup target resets. Is this normal or is that maybe fried and needs replaced?

I will ask Chris about the dmd not working. Hopefully that is all related.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Is this normal or is that maybe fried and needs replaced?

Sounds like the coil fried.

LTG : )

#15 4 years ago

thanks. I'll add it to my ever-growing stuff i need to order.

1 week later
#16 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Sounds like the coil fried.
LTG : )

You think I just need to replace the coil with this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AE-26-1200 or should I buy the entire assembly like this: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-bank-smart-drop-target-assembly-left.html

My boards are in transit to Chris Hibler.

I went ahead and sent the video board to him to just to make sure and get it bullet-proofed but I did notice that I had a loose ribbon connector at the DMD which might have been my DMD issue (of course, however, I did not recognize that until AFTER I took out the boards )

#17 4 years ago

Just the coil is plenty if that is all you fried.

Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I did notice that I had a loose ribbon connector at the DMD which might have been my DMD issue

Ed has them - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=52 if you need them.

LTG : )

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