(Topic ID: 58804)

T2 drop target - full replacement?

By GVeers

10 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by LTG
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 10 years ago

Hi all,

I've just finished putting in LEDs for my first pin, T2. Next on my list is the drop target, which does not raise itself after it's been hit. The arm (item 8 below) does not raise high enough in the solenoid, even after I cleaned out some metal gunk that was blocking it. The manual also shows a "segmented" arm, rather than the single metal rod found in my pin. This makes me think it's simply the wrong part. Finally the solenoid also looks a little burnt, so I figured I should replace the whole assembly. Any thoughts? Thanks!

IMG_20130801_204137_220.jpgIMG_20130801_204137_220.jpg T2_SkullDropTarget.jpgT2_SkullDropTarget.jpg

#2 10 years ago
Quoted from GVeers:

The manual also shows a "segmented" arm,

Why do you think it's segmented ?

The line drawing shows the coil sleeve sticking down.

Coil looks like crap, solder joint should be cleaned up. Plunger looks dirty. Right coil sleeve in there ?

LTG : )

#3 10 years ago

Yea, coil don't look so good, but it's wired wrong also....both purple wires should be on the same lug and the blue alone.
Wiring.jpgWiring.jpg
Mr.Hibler has solved two of these for me, but I went to my machine to verify...see I'm learning Chris

#4 10 years ago

Nice, thanks fellas. ncbk, do you happen to know if the plunger goes all the way into the solenoid? Mine does not so I'm assuming it's the wrong part.

#5 10 years ago

Actually disregard my last post...it's pretty clear either way that I need to replace both the solenoid and plunger.

1 week later
#6 10 years ago

I replaced the coil and plunger, but now it's apparent the original wiring blew a fuse and killed a transistor (Q20) on me. I'm a novice when it comes to soldering (much less desoldering) so I'm nervous when it comes to board work. The way I see it, I have three options...

1) have someone else do it. Not really my style.

2) get a cheap desoldering tool and hope for the best:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

3) get a Hakko 808 to make it as easy as possible.

I guess 3) is probably the option with the best lasting value, though I only own one pin and I'm not sure how hardcore I'll ever be in fixing these things. Right now I'm waiting to see how good a deal the group buy on the Hakko is. Thoughts?

#7 10 years ago

4) Practice on a junk board before you work on your game board.

LTG : )

8 years later
#8 1 year ago
Quoted from GVeers:

Hi all,
I've just finished putting in LEDs for my first pin, T2. Next on my list is the drop target, which does not raise itself after it's been hit. The arm (item 8 below) does not raise high enough in the solenoid, even after I cleaned out some metal gunk that was blocking it. The manual also shows a "segmented" arm, rather than the single metal rod found in my pin. This makes me think it's simply the wrong part. Finally the solenoid also looks a little burnt, so I figured I should replace the whole assembly. Any thoughts? Thanks!
[quoted image] [quoted image]

Resurrecting an old thread as this is relevant to my T2.

I've been working my way through multiple issues and this drop target is hopefully my last problem. It does not work in game or solenoid test and is wired the exact same way as in the quoted picture. If you look at the schematic, there are only 2 wires shown but every picture I've seen has these 3 wires so I'm not sure where the second purple wire is coming from unless they are redundant.

Also, the solenoid part listed is AE-26-1200 and mine has been changed to an AE1-26-1200 that has a diode. I'm guessing it fundamentally doesn't make a difference but I'm also not sure.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

that has a diode. I'm guessing it fundamentally doesn't make a difference but I'm also not sure.

Yes, if you wire it up wrong you blow stuff up.

Cut it off. The diode for it is on the driver board, so if the wires are mixed up, nothing bad happens. It still works fine.

LTG : )

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes, if you wire it up wrong you blow stuff up.
Cut it off. The diode for it is on the driver board, so if the wires are mixed up, nothing bad happens. It still works fine.
LTG : )

To be clear are you saying cut the diode off the coil assembly or cut the "extra" wire off the lug?

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

To be clear are you saying cut the diode off the coil

Cut the diode off.

LTG : )

#12 1 year ago

So I did this in steps.
First I rewired the coil and put the 2 violet wires on the same lug and the solenoid didn’t activate.

Then I cut the diode and when I tested it melted the cover off the coil and blew fuse 104

I feel like I’m missing something obvious

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#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

First I rewired the coil and put the 2 violet wires on the same lug and the solenoid didn’t activate.

If the diode was on for this, you blew it's transistor on the driver board.

LTG : )

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

If the diode was on for this, you blew it's transistor on the driver board.
LTG : )

So that means the diode on the board is bad too, right?

I need to test and order a new diode, transistor and coil. Everything else works fine, the wiring to the driver board is correct… any other suggestions?

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

So that means the diode on the board is bad too, right?

No. It means you wired the coil wrong when it had the diode on it.

Diodes were dropped from WPC games ( not 3 lug coils like flippers ) so you can harm anything if you put the wires on the wrong sides. The coil will still fire, you just don't send a surge back to the board.

LTG : )

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