Just recently took on a T2 to fix up with 2 issues. DMD is Garbled as in photo, and game will reset periodically.
Below is what I have done so far with the DMD issue.

1. Re-seated J101 and 102 as per pinwiki for the game reset issue. Have not pulled the main board off yet to check solder joints.
2. Swapped all ribbon cables with known working ones.
3. Swapped the DMD itself with a known working one.
4. installed a new DMD high power replacement board that just fits over the top. (also pictured here).
5. Checked all voltages below are my readings on the 8 pin DMD connector and the main board test points.

Pin 1 = 113.2
Pin 2 = 91.5
Pin 3 = Key
Pin 4 = Ground
Pin 5 = Ground
Pin 6 = 7.07
Pin 7 = 12.83
Pin 8 = 64.9

TP1 = 18.53
TP2 = 6.92
TP3 = 12.02
TP4 = .615
TP5 = Ground
TP6 = 87.8
TP7 = 26.2
TP8 = 20.6

Any help with my next steps is much appreciated.
IMG-8934 (resized).jpgIMG-8935 (resized).jpg

I am now really suspecting a failed 6264 static RAM at U24 because at startup my display does look exactly like this before changing to the lines.

If anyone has a link to this IC chip I would appreciate it. All that comes up when I search for it is NVRam replacements.

IMG-8936 (resized).jpg

Took my DMD controller board out of a working game and installed in T2.
Display works great. I will replace u24 once I find someone that sells one.
And if that does not work I guess a new board. (which I can only find at Big Daddy so far).

Thank you so much.
Will the 70 work just as good or better then the 55?

Got it.
Thanks again.

Well after leaving my good DMD board in with the game in for awhile now the display is starting to act crazy again and the game reset.

So I am going to order a main board upgrade kit and replace the common failure points on the main board.

This.
I had it wedged under the ground braid.

Main board is the giant ass board with all the test points on it. Power Driver.
What is C31 and How do you measure it?
I have already reseated J101, j114 and j210.
I have also already pressed on all socket chips.

It reads 6.30 at C31

Yes
I will post a pic and the tp voltage reading in a bit

Test point reads 5.86 with J114 unplugged
Here is a photo of the board

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Here is a photo of MPU as well

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Ok.
I noticed c5 had been replaced as well.
I can remove the board tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks for the help.

When my Addams Family had a 5 volt issue years ago it was the little c2 cap just to the left of c5 that had leaked and destroyed the traces under it.

As an aside, this game has been running fine in the house it is in for years without anyone working on it. Or so she tells me.
All the resets just started happening recently.

I will check that tomorrow as well.
But she has owned this game for many many years with no issues.

Had to run up next door where the game is and I’ll be damned.
Great guess.
Now how to fix ?
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That will be a tomorrow task.
But I will get on it as soon as I can.
Thanks.

Same here. Just up the road a bit.
Should be a non event for us here in Beaumont.
Galveston and the surge are the concern.

Ok. Had a few extra min to run by the house and get a photo of the plug.
Also checked the fuse in the box and it is an 8 amp slow blow.
Not a 4 like stated on the box.

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Ok.
I will take that out later today

And away we go.
Only 1 jumper wire.
Here is the entire backside of the driver board and 4 close ups of each corner.

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I can put in a new battery.
Edit. New battery installed.
Want me to put the board back in and test the test points again with J114 unplugged?

Will do

Here are the new readings just J101 and 102.

TP 1 = .997
TP 2 = 5.03
TP 3 = 12.04
TP 4 = .371
TP 6 = 90.6
TP 7 = 27.1

So TP 6 and 7 are way off base from what I can tell.

Sure

Same readings on TP 6 and 7

Sorry forgot about TP8. It is 22.1
TP 1 is now 18.6

Sounds good.
And yes those guys are always welcome in my tech threads.
Chris fixed my Addams Family driver board many years ago for me when the C2 cap destroyed the board traces.

I can tell by the way C2 is raised off the board that it has already been changed at some point.

Ok. Just so I don't do anything stupid, I read this as unplugging J101 and 102 and putting one lead on J101-1 and the other on J101-2 set to AC readout.
then on the next line I can put a lead on either J101-4or5 and the other lead on either J101-6or7 to get my readings.
Correct?

Got it.
I will measure all that today.
I sure hope it does not turn out to be a through hole issue as repairing those is above my skill level.

TP 6 at power on starts immediately at 87.8 stays that way for a long time.

AC measures the following unplugged.

J101 1-2 = 11.34

J101 4,5-6,7 = 16.73

J102 1,2-3,4 = 20.0

J102 5,6-8,9 = 2.5 (triple checked)

J112 1,3-4,5 = 14.75

I can find 250 and 257
But not 260. Where is the little guy?
And with game on or off when I find it?

Edit. Just can’t find a resistor higher then R257

Thanks

R260 measure 5.3 with leads one direction and 10.14 with leads swapped.

224 measures .09 and .09

We are using horseshoe/Omega setting on the meter. Sorry about not being a meter expert. Lol

This is our meter for reference

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Thanks. I will put it in correctly.
Will check my on hand supply but it will be tomorrow night at the earliest.

Thanks for all the help

Yes. I will take the photo tomorrow. No problem.

Thanks. Will do

I will have to go to my local Electronics shop Monday. These are all I have on hand at the moment.

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Is this good?

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Great. I’ll change it out tonight

Changed.
TP6 is still 90 volts at power up

Resistance
R224 is 0.5
R260 makes the screen go blank.

New AC readings.

AC measures the following unplugged.
J101 1-2 = 11.6
J101 4,5-6,7 = 0
J102 1,2-3,4 = 0
J102 5,6-8,9 = 0
J112 1,3-4,5 = 14.6

Makes no sense that ac measurements would change unplugged. But I simply can’t get a reading on those pins anymore.

Yes. I had the power on.

I will try the AC again but I could only get those two readings.
I realize that nothing should have changed.

I know what I did wrong.
I was testing pins 4 and 5 together and pins 6 and 7 together instead of 4 to 6 and 5 to 7.

Getting readings now

AC measures the following unplugged.
J101 1-2 = 11.6
J101 4,5-6,7 = 17.10
J102 1,2-3,4 = 20.1
J102 5,6-8,9 = 65.3
J112 1,3-4,5 = 14.6

Power off resistance is 0.5 on 224
And the numbers are all over the dial for the new 260. They will not stay still.

TP 1 = 1.12
TP 2 = 5.06
TP 3 = 12.04
TP 4 = .385
TP 6 = 90.5
TP 7 = 26.9
TP 8 = 22.5

No

And thank both of you for taking the time to help with this.
So much appreciated

Well luckily I have many other WPC games.
I can try tomorrow to plug this one in on the other side of the room with all my other working WPC games and see if anything reads different. And I can test the TP points in the exact same outlet.

Don’t know how to check for correct transformer or power selection plugs but I do have another meter at work I can bring home and eliminate that as well as the wall outlet.

Different circuit and new meter just used.
All readings are the same.

Other WPC game on same circuit reads good on all test points.

At this point I am willing to try anything.
I have never had to return a game to someone unfixed.

Thanks.

I am away from the game but I can do that.

Only part I don’t understand is measuring the AC voltage with the new board. Won’t they be exactly the same at J101 and 102 no matter what board is installed?

Seems like only the test point DC voltages would be any different.

Thanks guys.
I will check all this out in a couple of hours.
Away from game for awhile.

Part number checks out.

Here are photos of all 4 sides of my input plug.

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Wow.
Well done chart
Thanks a million for taking the time to do this.

I already have them unplugged.
But before I get started is it just as simple as it looks?
Set meter to AC voltage and put both leads in the matching colors?
Even the two purple 110 volt? Always scary measuring this one so I want to double check.

Got it

So far I have just done the purple 110 wires.
They read at 130 volts

All yellow measure 9.26
Red = 11.6
Red/white = 20.3
White = 101.0
Yellow = 65.3
Green/white = 14.8
White/blue = 17.2

Not sure I understand the 20 Vac grey, green and white area
Is that enough?

So looking like I should swap wires 4 and 7?

I can’t swap the wires until tomorrow anyway but I feel strongly the mystery is solved.

Got it.
Tomorrow should be a good day

Yes I will measure unplugged first

It worked!!!!!
Luckily I had the correct size pin punch on hand so the swap took about 30 seconds.
All output voltages are within 1 volt of spec.

Now to measure TP voltages and then slap the game back together and see if we still get any game resets or DMD issues.

Here are the new TP readings.
TP 6 is still high but not a crazy as before.

TP 1 = 16.7
TP 2 = 5.16
TP 3 = 12.04
TP 4 = .440
TP 6 = 78.8
TP 7 = 23.4
TP 8 = 19.5

Not going to leave it on or play until I hear back from you guys if TP 6 is ok now or not.

OMG you are so correct.
These guys went above and beyond for this crazy mystery and I can’t thank them enough.

Unfortunately we still have game issues.
DMD still going scrambled and the game reset (actually just died) when I hit the game start button.
Rebooted for a second and the game booted up but with scrambled DMD

So the hunt continues

Unplugged the power cord from the DMD and the power going into the DMD controller board.
Was able to play an entire game.
I will keep playing until it resets or not.

This is one of the first things I tried when the game was at its owners house.

So far so good with DMD unplugged.
We shall see.

4 games in and so far so good.

What pins should have what voltages?

Ok.
What should they be?
I will also test going into DMD board at j606

120.8, 98.8, 0,0,0,O, 66.6

Measured with J606 unplugged from controller board

Game still running. No resets yet

J606 has 15.5 volts and 5 volts maybe this is causing my missing 5 and 12 volt readings

Yep.
5 and 13 on those pins now

Could a bad Dmd cause resets.
I have a spare known good one.
I already replaced the controller board earlier

Game is still running without a reset yet

Got it.
But I swapped displays and played an entire game with no issues
Will require further testing but so far so good.

I will be back with the game tomorrow night. I will check.

Here is what is happening now.
Also included is a photo of J116-118.

Now at power up I get 5 straight chimes and a message that the sound board has a U14 Checksum error.
However the sound works great.
Game starts and plays just fine.
But after awhile the display will start going crazy.
If I shut off the game and restart the display will be just fine sometimes lasting about 4 or 5 games before acting up again.

This is a replacement DMD controller board and a replaced DMD, but the issue still happens.

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Sure

So far so good with ribbon cable unplugged.
But it does introduce a high pitched squeal and what sounds like someone tuning in an AM radio.

After reseating u14 I did not get the error message this time though

Took a small vid of the sound but can’t figure out how to upload to pinside

4 games so far and no screwups.

Well,
Display went crazy on game 7
Had to shut it down

Took a short vid but can’t figure out how to get it off my iPhone to Pinside

Got some photos

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Also u14 error still there. Just could not hear the 5 bongs with the ribbon cable unplugged

And display is now always messed up. Even at power up

Still messed up even with cable unplugged

Yes I can. This board was pulled out of a currently working game though. Hope it did not get messed up as well.
U24 was my diagnosis for her old DMD board. Lol
Luckily I ordered 2 new 6264 chips when I placed my last order

I have a brand new rotten dog replacement but hate to possibly damage it as well.

Ok.
I’ll replace the cable tonight and if that does not work I’ll replace the board tomorrow as it is getting a bit late

Lol.
Cable went fast.
Did not work

I’ll try the rotten dog board real quick

No luck.
Even the rotten dog starts off ok then goes crazy even with the new ribbon cable

sounds good to me

Just put rotten dog back in my Addams Family and all is good. So not the DMD boards fault here

It’s not me. Lol.
The game is at my 80 year old parents house
Believe me. I would work all night.

Actually I was in Houston all day today.
Should have met up with you.

I certainly would love to find time.
Just so happens Saturday is my Birthday so will be super busy. But good busy

And I’m sure I have run past you at the Houston Arcade expo once or twice.

Much appreciated.

Thinking I will start by pulling the MPU board out. Reseating all chips and inspecting it and take good photos for you guys.
Maybe by some miracle reseating the chips will magically work.
Is this the board with the PIA chip that likes to go bad?