Beaumont, TX
Awesome.
I did not realize a blinking D20 was good and no one picked up on it from my initial post above.
Back to DMD board crap.
(Topic ID: 277735)
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Don’t think it is DMD board.
New board makes no difference.
Unplugging all DMD cables has no effect.
Game is not fully booted.
Not just that the DMD is blank but coin door buttons have no effect.
Plus no controlled lamps anywhere.
Quoted from Arcade:I did not realize a blinking D20 was good and no one picked up on it from my initial post above.
Actually 3 of us keep saying that a blinking D20 means the MPU board booted up. It doesn't matter that the DMD is blank. It really did boot up.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:This part is normal. The sound board makes a single "bong" upon successful boot.
Just making it clear is all. 
This is where it gets interesting.
Quoted from Arcade:Plus no controlled lamps anywhere.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:your game might have had the default settings restored as if the batteries were removed.
I have seen this in the past before, with a game I worked on the past that had batteries on the MPU. When I pressed the ASIC chip, it caused the default setting to be restored. For what seemed like a brief period there was an issue between the ASIC and RAM losing communication and ended up resetting the RAM. Yes, indeed. I helped to cause this issue when I asked to press on the ASIC chip.
You can't tell that it reset the default settings since the DMD is not working at the moment, which is why you feel the game is not booting, even though it has.
If you were able to press the far left coin door button, it would reset the game and go into attract mode.
Quoted from Arcade:Pin 1 = 113.2
Pin 2 = 91.5
Pin 3 = Key
Pin 4 = Ground
Pin 5 = Ground
Pin 6 = 7.07
Pin 7 = 12.83
Pin 8 = 64.9TP1 = 18.53
TP2 = 6.92
TP3 = 12.02
TP4 = .615
TP5 = Ground
TP6 = 87.8
TP7 = 26.2
TP8 = 20.6
So, after reviewing everything closer, you still have your original problem with pin 7 at the DMD measuring 12.90v. Normally this is 12 +/-.25, so the highest this ever should be is 12.25v.
So with the current DMD controller board in the game, can you test pin 7 at the DMD and TP3 on the driver board again? If TP3 is 12.90v, your driver board has an issue.
I think your DMD issue and your coin door issues are going to be related to this high 12.90v.
I feel compelled to jump back in to make sure that we're not going down the wrong path.
The +12V supply to the DMD is generated on the DMC. It appears to be used by the Babcock display but not the Cherry display. I am unsure if the Vishay display uses it.
It is generated by a 12V Zener diode.
It is unrelated to the +12VR (regulated +12VDC) on the power board. That is generated by the LM7812 and is ONLY distributed to the CPU board via J114. This is measured at TP3.
The source of the +12V is J117 and that is +12VU. That is often +15V (it is unregulated) and it is measured at TP1.
Quoted from Arcade:Thanks guys.
I will take readings at the mentioned points.
I did of course try the left button on the coin door with no luck.
So can you test the other 3 coin door buttons? Need to see whether problem is with one or all 4.
Now it seems pretty important to measure the 12v out of both DMD controller boards that were being used, whichever game they may be in currently.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:So can you test the other 3 coin door buttons? Need to see whether problem is with one or all 4.
Now it seems pretty important to measure the 12v out of both DMD controller boards that were being used, whichever game they may be in currently.
I tried all 4 coin door buttons. None of them worked.
I will be home in an hour or so.
Which pin is 12volt out on the DMD board?
I don't have access to.the schematics, but I think it is pin 2, mirrored of what it would be at the DMD power connector, which is pin 7 there.
You could measure it at the DMD if that is easier for you. There is only wire I'm between so you will have the same result.
Can you measure the 12v on the other DMD controller board you were using to test with? Just making sure that was not also damaged since it was in the project game.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Can you measure the 12v on the other DMD controller board you were using to test with? Just making sure that was not also damaged since it was in the project game.
This is the replacement DMD board
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Can you measure the 12v on the other DMD controller board you were using to test with? Just making sure that was not also damaged since it was in the project game.
This is the replacement/test controller board. The other one is her bad one to begin with.
Is this one testing bad now with the numbers I gave?
Does the other DMD controller also measure around 12.90v in the other game? Trying to see whether there is an issue in the game or only on the DMD controller board.
I am concerned of the 12v at J604 pin 7 going to the DMD on both DMD controller boards.
Ok J 604 pin 7 measures 104 volts. Yikes, can that be correct?
I would have to put her old board back in the game to measure it. It is just on my work bench.
Im happy to pop it back in and measure but I would bet it has the same output.
Quoted from Arcade:Ok J 604 pin 7 measures 104 volts. Yikes, can that be correct?
Seems it should be the 2nd pin from the other end of the connector.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Seems it should be the 2nd pin from the other end of the connector.
Thanks. Will get it in the morning.
I looked all over for a pin 1 marking but could not find it.
Feel stupid but there seemed to be no pin 1 indicator on the board.
Looking like Game rom issue.
I put this MPU board in my Whitewater and it booted up everything just fine. So the ASIC is good
Then on a whim I put the board back in T2 with my Whitewater rom installed and it booted up great.
Well except for no DMD still but I think I may have a high power issue because Whitewater has a color DMD that does not use high power.
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