(Topic ID: 259252)

T2 diamond in the rough: Playfield completed

By Langless28

4 years ago


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  • 69 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Langless28
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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There are 69 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Finishing up GI sockets. All new and used color correct wire. Mcmaster did not have color-striped white. So I used the string color and just white 18ga. Tried to be neat about it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe too late for this, but Planetary carries color-striped wires, I just redid a number of them in my own T2. Turned out I needed a couple of colors I didn't order, I just stripped the stripes off what wire I did have with lacquer thinner and painted on the correct stripe color with Createx acrylics. Can't tell the difference once it's in the machine.

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Maybe too late for this, but Planetary carries color-striped wires, I just redid a number of them in my own T2. Turned out I needed a couple of colors I didn't order, I just stripped the stripes off what wire I did have with lacquer thinner and painted on the correct stripe color with Createx acrylics. Can't tell the difference once it's in the machine.

I was aware of this but completely forgot until after I ordered the wire from Mcmaster-carr.

FYI 50' of 18 gauge wire is ~$9 at mcmaster-carr and color correct wire from planetary is ~$2.25/ 10'. So its a decent price with not much markup for getting perfect re-wire jobs.

#53 3 years ago

Ok so switch harness and GI is 100% complete. Next will be placing lamp boards ad LED’s. Then cleaning and placing lamp harness.

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1 week later
#54 3 years ago

Current status. Topside build is on pause. Waiting for cliffy set and Mylar set. Bottom side is almost done. Few more coils to wire. Waiting to place target mech due to cliffy set.

I regrained all guides besides two long ones. Also need to polish wireforms which I have been dreading. Also building up plastics. FYI color comparison from @buthamburg’s set. Looks great!!

Also built lighted back panel thanks to Averell providing the decal. Waiting on quote back to get it printed.

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#55 3 years ago

It lives! Hooked playfield up to the back box. All lights/ GI/ flashers/ coils work as expected. Very happy about that.

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#56 3 years ago

Made a new ramp flap for the left metal ramp. Came out pretty good.

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#57 3 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Made a new ramp flap for the left metal ramp. Came out pretty good.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work. I did the same thing. I wish we had a group on here for templates for all games so owners had a resource to download templates to make their own.

#58 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Nice work. I did the same thing. I wish we had a group on here for templates for all games so owners had a resource to download templates to make their own.

Good point. I’ll make a CAD drawing of mine to provide.

#59 3 years ago

Looking really good. I have been following this thread to see the progress.

Slight off topic question, what is the name of this bracket? Trying to get some new ones but without the correct name, finding them is proving difficult.

Alberto

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#60 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

Looking really good. I have been following this thread to see the progress.
Slight off topic question, what is the name of this bracket? Trying to get some new ones but without the correct name, finding them is proving difficult.
Alberto
[quoted image]

The apron brackets is what I call them.

#61 3 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Made a new ramp flap for the left metal ramp. Came out pretty good.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You've inspired me, I think I'm going to redo this flap for mine too. Wasn't going to even though it's got a rusty spot underneath (which doesn't bother me), but it's get a worn area of blue dye on top (which does).

Quoted from Peruman:

Slight off topic question, what is the name of this bracket? Trying to get some new ones but without the correct name, finding them is proving difficult.[quoted image]

Arch retainer, part #01-5575. Looks like they're out of stock everywhere though.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-5575

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Nice work. I did the same thing. I wish we had a group on here for templates for all games so owners had a resource to download templates to make their own.

Best template is the original flap. Just gotta bite the bullet and grind it off.

#62 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

You've inspired me, I think I'm going to redo this flap for mine too. Wasn't going to even though it's got a rusty spot underneath (which doesn't bother me), but it's get a worn area of blue dye on top (which does).

Arch retainer, part #01-5575. Looks like they're out of stock everywhere though.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-5575

Best template is the original flap. Just gotta bite the bullet and grind it off.

I’d go with .007” ss spring stock too. Instead of the blue tempered stuff.

9 months later
#63 2 years ago

Good morning, I have not forgotten about this project. I was waiting for some cliffy's last October and then decided I finally wanted to finish my unfished basement. Half of it is a game room and the other half a theater room. I've always wanted this since I was a kid. Now that the basement is complete I can focus on finishing this up. Just minor assembly things that are left and a final vacuum and cleaning. I do have rock hard duct tape residue on my skull that I need to figure out how to remove and refresh the original skull. That and there is slight fitment issues with the skull and new plastic set/ existing mounting holes. Its not anything terrible, but just some very tight fits/ deflection going on that I need to sort out.

I also had to ditch the lighted backpanel. I tried using the double sided tape that is used to adhere graphics to the underside of ramps but any unevenness or bubbles showed very badly as dark spots when lit. I then cleaned off all that adhesive and tried optically clear adhesive that is UV activated. that would have worked GREAT, however, I used too little in some areas and again, showed up as streaky, dark spots. On my attempt to remove the translite material, I ripped it. I can work on that in the background (i want to try buying the image on backlit sticker material) but I want to get this completed in the next 2 weeks for some friends are coming over.
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#64 2 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

decided I finally wanted to finish my unfished basement. Half of it is a game room and the other half a theater room.

looking good. You should post your basement project in the game room thread

1 week later
#65 2 years ago

Before/ after of the skull. There was dried duct tape adhesive on the skull that I had to remove and it took some paint off so I decided to refresh it.

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#66 2 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Before/ after of the skull. There was dried duct tape adhesive on the skull that I had to remove and it took some paint off so I decided to refresh it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks very good. What did you use to refresh the chrome look?

#67 2 years ago
Quoted from harig:

Looks very good. What did you use to refresh the chrome look?

Rustoleum metallic silver spray paint. Black was hand painted in

#68 2 years ago

I’ll have better pictures soon but it’s done. It’s been so long I have not bothered to restore the cabinet so the playfield is 100% done. Threw it in and all worked fine, no issues.

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#69 2 years ago

Because this took so long I threw it back into the un-restored cabinet. I'll probably restore that thing next summer. Need to finish up with finish work in the basement and make more progress on my batman forever restore. Here is some pictures. I realized I am not good at taking playfield pictures. Ill take some pointers if you have them.
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