(Topic ID: 259252)

T2 diamond in the rough


By Langless28

39 days ago



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  • 39 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Joenature
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 39 days ago

Started tearing apart a routed T2. Game was actually flipping fine. No major wear besides lifted inserts. No mechanical or electrical issues besides the standard burnt GI connectors on the driver board. That was repaired and I already refreshed the speaker panel and replaced all the speakers.

Hoping to do a full restore.

My timing is to get everything off the playfield, cleaned, inserts removed and glued back in*, and all ready for New England spring time to throw some clear and do touch up once it gets warmer. Also in that time frame clean all metal parts and rebuild all mech. Attempt to save all plastics. If that’s not possible I’ll buy a set from Peter in butham.

Tonight I plan to remove switch matrix wiring harness and all mechanicals left on underside. Too is completely stripped. Wire forms basically just slipped out with little resistance.

*the images and more or less great on the inserts but I believe they have to be removed and reglued and releveled. I haven’t seen anyone just remove them without scraping off the art. Hopefully I can do that here.

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#2 39 days ago

if the inserts are only raised , they can be pushed back into place ... just sayin

#3 39 days ago

That looks like the T2 I have been restoring

#4 39 days ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

if the inserts are only raised , they can be pushed back into place ... just sayin

I get that but they need glue to prevent it from happening again. I don’t hear a lot of people going that route on here. Maybe a thin CA glue from the back.

#5 39 days ago

Wow.
That PF looks darned good!
Diamond Plate comes through!
Look at that dust/grime!
It will be fun to clean it once it's totally depopulated.
Makes me want my own restoration project!
Good luck!

#6 39 days ago

Ok got everything off playfield. Keeping rails on for rigidity until I decide on what to do with the inserts. In the meantime I’ll clean the top with ME and 99% IPA to see what real dams ge dirt/ repaints are in store.

I’m going to leave underside t-nuts installed. They are really hard to take out and chip wood upon removal. I’ll carefully and lightly sand the underside of the playfield, glue and hammer down the thread “mushrooms” and apply a water poly underneath.

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#7 39 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

until I decide on what to do with the inserts.

Apply heat press down with a wood block and epoxy dabs from the back.

#8 39 days ago

Pretty amazing that the printed area between your "timer" insert and the VUK saucer is still intact on a routed game, it's usually worn to death.

#9 39 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Pretty amazing that the printed area between your "timer" insert and the VUK saucer is still intact on a routed game, it's usually worn to death.

I agree. I bought the operators party zone too and it cleaned up very nice too. I think they might have been at a vfw or similar. But oddly zero cigarette smell if that were the case.

#10 38 days ago

Not a huge update. Playfield is off rotisserie and onto a table for cleanup. I am working from the back to front to get a feel for cleaning aggressiveness etc. This ball trail absolutely sucks. Its so minor i would hate to repaint the whole section just for it but its not coming out. There was very bad ball cracks before the hole. I used 320 grit sandpaper very slowly to see if i can get it out before i hit paint. The dirt must be in the paint layer which sucks. I will continue going slowly on the ball trail to see if i can work out the last bit of dirt otherwise i'll need to re do the whole section. there is the planking/ cracks but overall great shape playfield. I will also throw a small amount of wood glue on a toothpick and wipe the inside of all the raised screw holes, then I will use a ballpeen hammer to knock the wood back down.
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#11 38 days ago

Looks like you're making some great progress. Just wanted to tag along.

#12 37 days ago

Completely nerding out on this one. I really wanted to see what the dirt was and how it’s lodged into the paint/clear.
Ball cracks suck because it splits the paint layer. Small specs and stuff you can actually get a gauge for how deep they are embedded into the clear then I can scrape them out with a scalpel. Not saying I’m doing this for the whole playfield but if I can get just the major areas like light blue in front of the flippers I think it beats the time that would take to repaint it all.

Also I the ball cracks. Since it’s cracked through the paint layer, I feel the paint, smear, wipe excess might work well before any sort of clear coat. I’ll try this one the playfield is 100% clean and ready.

Happy Friday night!!
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#13 36 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

I really wanted to see what the dirt was and how it’s lodged into the paint/clear.

What is that, and where in the world did you get it?

#14 36 days ago
Quoted from RCA1:

What is that, and where in the world did you get it?

It’s just a microscope head that has an adjusted Boom arm. I took the picture through one of the eye pieces using my iPhone. Wish it came out better.

#15 36 days ago

What do you do in New England in January when it’s 66 degrees out. Clean your lamp boards and have a Bloody Mary.

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#16 36 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

What do you do in New England in January when it’s 66 degrees out. Clean your lamp boards and have a Bloody Mary.[quoted image][quoted image]

Use the dishwasher

#17 36 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Use the dishwasher

Yeah but then I can’t bring my dishwasher outside and drink a Bloody Mary!

#18 35 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

drink a Bloody Mary

Mine were called Gin Marys.

#19 35 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

It’s just a microscope head that has an adjusted Boom arm

"just"
Progress looks good!

#20 34 days ago

Small update. Preparing for a vacation.

Cleaned lamp boards now reflowing common pins and lamp pads to remove divot. Doing minor repairs. 1 pin came out when I removed the IDC connector. 1 lamp pad lifted. High temp epoxied then pad down and will wire stitch to the traces when it dries tomorrow.

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#21 33 days ago

Lamp pad epoxied back down. Cleaned. Stitched back to both sides of the traces with 3 strands of wire and fresh solder all over.
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Hand cleaning this board and noticed the cap was super wiggly. Turns out the positive lead is disconnected. Wonder it’s purposed as game worked flawlessly before I took it apart.

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1 week later
#22 22 days ago

Have been traveling/ sick for the past couple days. New plastic set arrived so hopefully the restore turns out nice enough to accept these brand new plastics.

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1 week later
#23 13 days ago

It was a mentally straining day so I decided to do work using the least amount of brain power. Sorting beautifully polished hardware. All the top and bottom hardware is done, sorted and stored away. What you see in the tumbler is the first set of coil assembly parts.
Flippers
Ball drain kicker
Skull popper
Skull drop target assembly
All coils were ultrasonically cleaned and I will print new coil wrappers.

Next on the playfield is to level the inserts. I have been looking on the usual guides here but wish there was a more in depth tutorial on heating up inserts. Like temperature, how close should it be, etc etc. they are not lifted a lot so hoping to push them back level and glue with epoxy on the underside.

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#24 13 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Completely nerding out on this one. I really wanted to see what the dirt was and how it’s lodged into the paint/clear.
Ball cracks suck because it splits the paint layer. Small specs and stuff you can actually get a gauge for how deep they are embedded into the clear then I can scrape them out with a scalpel. Not saying I’m doing this for the whole playfield but if I can get just the major areas like light blue in front of the flippers I think it beats the time that would take to repaint it all.
Also I the ball cracks. Since it’s cracked through the paint layer, I feel the paint, smear, wipe excess might work well before any sort of clear coat. I’ll try this one the playfield is 100% clean and ready.
Happy Friday night!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you try Magic Eraser and IPA? That is pretty good combo to get ball swirls and deep scratches cleaned when used with caution.

#25 13 days ago
Quoted from Tensikka:

Did you try Magic Eraser and IPA? That is pretty good combo to get ball swirls and deep scratches cleaned when used with caution.

Yes that's my goto. Under the microscope these dirt particles go all the way down to the paint layer almost.

#26 13 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Yes that's my goto. Under the microscope these dirt particles go all the way down to the paint layer almost.

Have you read the HEP thread? Good reading about chemicals to clean dirty playfields.

#27 13 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you read the HEP thread? Good reading about chemicals to clean dirty playfields.

Yup, every day!

#28 13 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you read the HEP thread? Good reading about chemicals to clean dirty playfields.

Got a link to the particular post concerning which chemicals to use?

#29 13 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Got a link to the particular post concerning which chemicals to use?

No, it was pretty recent in the thread

#30 13 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Got a link to the particular post concerning which chemicals to use?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/120#post-5422827
was already tagged as a key post in his thread.

#31 11 days ago

I have to do the skull popper and flipper brackets again. I overcrowded the bowl and those may have interlocked. So they didn’t get clean and now there is metal to metal marks etc. I circled an area that it happened to. Everything is nice and polished.
Two mechs rebuilt.

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#32 10 days ago

4 more down. If anyone is curious I’m using Astro brite heavy paper for the coil wrappers. I use clear packing tape to make it more resilient and double side tape at the wrapper joint. It’s not 100% original but looks close enough.

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#33 10 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

4 more down. If anyone is curious I’m using Astro brite heavy paper for the coil wrappers. I use clear packing tape to make it more resilient and double side tape at the wrapper joint. It’s not 100% original but looks close enough.[quoted image]

Looks good. I used Papilio inkjet vinyl paper. Waterproof and durable.

#34 10 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Looks good. I used Papilio inkjet vinyl paper. Waterproof and durable.

Does it come in the needed colors? Or do you print the color?

#35 9 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Does it come in the needed colors? Or do you print the color?

I print the color. Nice and vibrant

#36 9 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Does it come in the needed colors? Or do you print the color?

I can send you one in the mail if you want to check out the quality.

#37 9 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I can send you one in the mail if you want to check out the quality.

I’d really appreciate that. I’ll pm you.

#38 3 days ago

Ok so I was waiting on some Marco parts to finish the mechs. Ran out of the flanged coil sleeves. Didn’t have the special thin washers on some ball popper assemblies. New drop target the replacement Sticker for the target sucks so I scanned mine in and will try to make a new one. But all coil assemblies are complete.

Moved onto ramp. Structurally almost perfect besides the top middle mount. Removed underside sticker and with flour and IPa, removed adhesive. Looks like new. Will get double side clear tape to put it back on. Cleaned ramp with novus 2. Then dawn dish soap and hot water. Flame polished it. It was my first time doing it with a kitchen torch. Came out nice. There is faint marks still but don’t want to risk bubbling the plastic.

Last I’ll flatten out the top middle mount which has sunken down and cracked. I’ll use my heat gun for that.

Want to finish this is because I’m getting a project pin this weekend.

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#39 1 day ago

You're doing great Mike. Keep up the good work dude!

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