These should be pretty easy to fix. The non alignment of the cannon first: You will find a curved slot that holds a switch on the bottom of the cannon mechanism. You will also see a switch that is pressed by a post off the bottom of the mech. The one hitting the post is the home switch. You will need to change its angle so it is tripped when the thing is aligned. All you need to do is lift the play field with the cannon in the 'home position'... currently out of alignment, and loosen that switch and twist it by a small amount so it activates later/earlier as needed. Tighten again, and then start the machine. It should home now. Repeat until you get it right. See pic attached for switch I'm talking about. Once you see it, it will make sense. I'll bet yours is just loose. You might need to change the position of the one in the curved slot too. That one controls when the thing reverses.

As for the flippers, assuming the flippers themselves are responding the correct button, it sounds like you have the wires on connector J110 reversed. Not sure if the orange or the white ones or both, but that is where the flipper signal is sent to the switch matrix / CPU. I've attached a screen shot of the proper positions for the wires on this connector. If they are wired like this, then check these wire colors where then enter the CPU board in the little plugs toward its bottom. They could be reversed at that end.

Good luck. This is a great machine.

Screen_Shot_2016-01-04_at_10.17.49_PM_(resized).png

IMG_0172_(resized).jpg

I'm having an issue with my T2 cannon as well. The ball will roll down and appear to set perfectly in the cannon, but then it sits there and the cannon won’t swing out to make the shot. I have to give the game a little hand tap on the right side of the cabinet. I don’t have to bang it hard. All it usually takes is tiny little tap and then it starts moving. Is this just a switch that isn’t making contact or something? Before I start tearing into it, I thought someone here might have an idea.

Could it be "gunked up" that bad with old grease........mine when it sits for more than a week or two...when first played my cannon moves really slow the first few swings then is fine..in my case I believe I'm warming up the "gunk"...everyone says it's easy to open up and clean...but I've yet to make that leap...............Joey

MN pin that just sounds like the little microswitch in the cannon needs adjustment/replacement. The ball triggers that switch so the game knows the ball is in the cannon ready to fire.

I'm hoping that's what it is. Do the contacts just get dirty? The cannon has worked flawlessly for a year or so, but recently started having this issue where I had to give the side of the cabinet a little love tap.

Adjust the metal spring to compress further when the ball rolls over it. The switch might not be making contact and your little nudge helps it do so. Or the switch might be going bad.

Mine did the same thing. I would suspect the switch that detects the ball sitting in the gun. Try going in switch test and roll the ball in the trough and see if it registers. Do that several times to see if it is intermittent. The other thing to try is to jump into diagnostics when in the game and the situation occurs to see if the switch is registering.

Having fixed several 'flakes' of this nature lately, I would endorse the idea or switch and diode replacement. Switches like this one that take a lot of jarring, and in addition, above the PF so are exposed to cleaners and wax over the life of the machine. As a result, they are particularly vulnerable to gunk and fatigue of diodes. Especially now that these things are getting to be 25 years old! So, even if adjusting can get it going again, I'd spend the $5 and get the part, and use the time to really eliminate the problem.

In my experience, these old machines develop enough problems that coming back to old ones is just not fun.

2¢

Does this help you:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-gun-cannot-find-home-error#post-2714214

In switch test T.1 , press left flipperbutton.
What does it show in diplay ? sw#11 or sw#12 ?

same for right button but that would obvious the opposite one.

Left flipperbutton should trigger sw#12

That should be correct but you're saying it is backwards in test.
I was hoping the PowerDriverBoard (rottendog ?) has a mixed-up flipperswitches output but not sure what's going on then.
PDB_Col1_R1_R2_(resized).jpg

In that case the powerdriverboard itself might be the cause of this.
From the pictures in post #15 it looks like a non-original board. Possible this board has different wiring from PDB -> CPU-board.

Yes, in the last picture I see RD used the same id# for the opto-coupler (U8) and assume they did also with U7.
RD_Untitled-1_(resized).jpg

With another picture from the web we're about to locate the problem.

Can you measure with machine 'OFF' and short ribbon-cable removed:

-continuity between U8-5 (brown arrow) to J113-5 (brown dot) -> should have continuity
-continuity between U8-5 (brown arrow) to J113-3 (red dot)

-continuity between U7-5 (red arrow) to J113-5 (brown dot)
-continuity between U7-5 (red arrow) to J113-3 (red dot) -> should have continuity

-continuity between U8-4 (blue arrow) to J113-1 (blue dot)

RD_pdb-1_(resized).jpg

My guess is that you have continuity at two points where it should not.
If so,..I would modify the board by cutting leg 5 of both IC's and wire them vice-versa.

Maybe RD used the wrong schematics of the WPC-PowerDriverBoard, here is a picture with switched pins from the manual:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-flipper-works-but-not-flipper-switch#post-2001669

I',m not familiar with the RottenDog board and possible there are different ways to solve this.
One option, as said above, cut leg 5 of both opto-couplers and wire them crossed.
Or maybe it is easier to cut 2 traces on the board and swap them there.
RD_mod_(resized).jpg

If you can make a picture of that area, maybe I can find an easier way to do this or if someone else has done this before, let us know.
I will check in the morning because it is already April over here.

Perfect !
Glad I could help in this one.

A little note though, this 4N25 is used to 'read' the status of the flippercoil and has 75Volt on the upper side and the switch-matrix on the lower side, separated by an opto-coupler. Now be 100% sure that the red wires (switch-matrix) have no open insulation so that 75Volt and switch-matrix can touch together. Maybe a drop of glue to secure it in place.

RD_4N25_(resized).jpg

Nice work solving this one guys! I wonder if Rottondog knows they have the optos wired backwards?

I just found this on the RD website:
"Terminator 2 - Supported ONLY with boards built after Feb 2012" , so yes RD knows.

That would mean that all pre-fliptronic WPC-machines with RD WDB089 board built before Feb 2012 do have a lane-change that works inverted.
Only with the T2 video-mode it became obvious that it was wrong designed.
Good to know, saved into my memory

It looks like RottenDog used the +12V to supply the optocoupler in series with a 560 Ohm resistor where the original board has a 3K3 ohm / 5W to coil power.

When the optocoupler fails and start conducting, (as it sounds from your description), it wouldn't hurt any parts on the original board. Here with the RD-board it feeds the flippercoil between +12V and +72V through R210 and will burn the resistor eventually.

If you are sure the optocouplers are OK now, you can safe replace the resistor.
I think a value between 560 and 1000 Ohm / 0.25Watt will work just fine.

Inspect the diodes on the flippercoil as they can give nasty spikes if the diodes are not working / broke loose from coil.
Maybe the optocoupler got blown from such voltage spikes.

Can you test the LED in one of the blown optocouplers using the standard diode test? If that diode is failing shorted, it might cause the resistor to overheat.

I agree with zaza, suspect the flipper coil diode.

The cap on the flipper is to preserve the contact points of the EOS switch and shouldn't cause this problem. Hopefully the flipper coil diodes will be the cure.

This has been driving me nuts, I assumed this was the case.
On a pre-fliptronics WPC, I was getting 12 volt feedback through my coils without the 50 volt source plugged in... I've been staring at the main manual for the longest time before I looked at the rotten dog one. It's nice to have confirmation from a second source... just seemed really odd to me. Think I've spent enough time on this goose chase.

thanks for posting.