(Topic ID: 163074)

T2 boards, what to replace to prevent future problems?


By Jakers

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by PinballManiac40
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

So I've had my T2 for a couple weeks now and I'm loving it. It's a routed game and definitely shows it, but it still plays good and I want to keep it that way. When winter hits and I take to hibernation in my basement, I plan on tearing down the playfield and doing a thorough cleaning and replacing of worn parts. My question is...are there certain parts of the boards that are known to fail and cause major problems? Certain capacitors or resistors that are considered preventative maintenance? I see Marco has a couple rebuild kits for the driver board and high voltage.

The parts on the boards look like they could be original or at least are very old replacement parts. I'm just looking to prevent any headaches in the future and replace anything thats known to cause problems.

Thanks!

Jake

#2 2 years ago

Mine is all original other than a connector or two I replaced on the GI.

Once I went to all LED though, the draw on those connectors is much less.

Another thing I did was remove the battery holder and install a remote one in the back box. Always do this. To all your games. Unless NIB obviously.

Other than that, my T2 is original everything else.

T2 club is a better place for this question fyi.

#3 2 years ago

There are some things you can look for now and replace, but most I'd just wait until you experience an issue.

GI connectors and headers J120, J121 and J115. Check for burned connectors/headers and replace now.
Replace the batteries with a remote holder or add NVRAM or go to Lithium batteries to prevent leaking on the CPU. Do that now.
Resets. I'd just wait and address these if it start happening. J101, J102, J114, BR2, C4, C5 and possibly +5V voltage regulator.
DMD HV section. Again I'd just wait, but look at the bottom 1/3 of that board and see if it looks toasty. If the DMD starts acting wonky, $5 in parts and some time and you can rebuild that area.

Off the top of my head that's all I've ever experienced as common issues. The rest of the stuff that can happen would be fairly rare unless you did something stupid like work on the game with the power on.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I'm just looking to prevent any headaches in the future and replace anything thats known to cause problems.

I wouldn't touch anything if I were you; you can cause more of these headaches screwing around with stuff then just leaving it alone.

#5 2 years ago

Agree with the others if it is working fine leave it alone. It really will not get much of a workout in a home environment.

#6 2 years ago

The only thing you should really do is get the batteries off the boards or replace them if you haven't already.

#7 2 years ago

I would not replace any boards since it is working.
I only suggest upgrading to NVRAM on the MPU to remove the batteries for good.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Resets. I'd just wait and address these if it start happening. J101, J102, J114,

and J210 in this order.

#9 2 years ago

Thanks guys! I've already checked the connectors and none of them look burned. 2 look newer so I assume at one point they were burned and replaced. I replaced all the bulbs (half were burned out) with LEDs so there's less stress on the boards. I also replaced the batteries with Energizer Ultimate Lithiums.

Thanks for the helpful info. I'll leave the boards alone for now.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I also replaced the batteries with Energizer Ultimate Lithiums.

Good alternative if you don't go with NVRAM.

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