T2 - Backglass Lighting Issue

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

Connector and pins need to be replaced, that burn only gets worse.

Ed has tools and parts, size .156 - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

Pinwiki has wire colors to help straighten out that mess :

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Yeah here’s what mine looked like when I took it apart. The connector with pins needed replaced same as the board needed repaired ugh

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#4 5 years ago

???

Rickj427

Inactive member

Unknown

5y 2,250 3

Thank you for the replies! After further inspection, none of the pins look to be burnt. It also looks like only the 2nd and 4th pins are being used with the plug in question and the last 3 pins have a separate plug (still plugged-in in the picture). Do you know if J120 only uses 5 pins with 2 plugs? The plug that’s still connected looks like it came that way from the factory, but I’m not entirely sure. Is there any information I can find to show what each pin connects to and what the original plug looked like? Thank you!

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#5 5 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Rickj427:
none of the pins look to be burnt.

See what I circled. That is burnt, so is it's pin.

OP
Quoted from Rickj427:
Do you know if J120 only uses 5 pins with 2 plugs?

11 pin, just like J121.

LTG : )

dcea69e7c7a82f4a2789485e02030f021ee3a61d.jpeg (resized).jpg

#6 5 years ago

???

Rickj427

Inactive member

Unknown

5y 2,250 3

Ah I see what you mean! So the connector is bad, but pins are good. Would you recommend replacing the entire 11 pin connector?

#7 5 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

OP
Quoted from Rickj427:
but pins are good.

The pins aren't good. Discolored and have been hot. Whether you can see it or not.

OP
Quoted from Rickj427:
Would you recommend replacing the entire 11 pin connector?

Yes, and pins.

Connector and pins need to be replaced, that burn only gets worse.

Ed has tools and parts, size .156 - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

Pinwiki has wire colors to help straighten out that mess :

LTG : )

#8 5 years ago

ACE

pinzrfun

Pinside+ Frequent

Belleville, MI

11y 90,300 4,305 20

On yours it looks like there was a wire where that blob of solder is on the far right, and they moved it 2 slots to the left. My J120 looks totally different.

20190226_225445 (resized).jpg

#9 5 years ago

JON

Schwaggs

Gameroom Mods

10y 105K 4,760 10

OP
Quoted from Rickj427:
Thank you for the replies! After further inspection, none of the pins look to be burnt. It also looks like only the 2nd and 4th pins are being used with the plug in question and the last 3 pins have a separate plug (still plugged-in in the picture). Do you know if J120 only uses 5 pins with 2 plugs? The plug that’s still connected looks like it came that way from the factory, but I’m not entirely sure. Is there any information I can find to show what each pin connects to and what the original plug looked like? Thank you!
[quoted image]

Thats not normal - it is a hasty repair from someone that didn't have the parts to do it correctly. Looks like they cut off the burned/melted part of the original 11 pin IDC connector and re-used a 5 pin connector they had laying around.

Proper repair would be to replace the entire IDC connector with a new 11 pin IDC connector https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10848-11

Or better yet a Molex-style crimp-on connector:
Housing - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS156-11-LR
Pins - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113&cat=81
Crimp tool - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title

#10 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Ok, first my J115 is being redone (both the connector/pins and the board - all burnt there) -but my J120 and J121 look very different from the photos above.

Is this a diff version/rev?

Also - my GI & Back Box lighting is coming from my J115 connector (which is being replaced, but that's what led me to find the issue).

What's up? As mine "looks" factory, has one of these others been hacked to just get power to the lights? Why didn't they go back to using J115? (Or perhaps it too was burnt, so this was the quick fix?) Just throwing that out there, as I'm confused. lol (But I'm a newbie, so that happens a lot!)

T2 Connectors (resized).jpg

#11 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Here's more on my J115 connector issue...but again, this has been replaced with a new connector and pins and the board is now being fixed as we speak (text?) lol so hopefully my GI issue is resolved soon. Just wondering why the noted above differences?

Burnt J115 - 1 (resized).JPG

Burnt J115 - 3. (resized).JPG

J115 Burnt - 2 (resized).png

#12 5 years ago

JON

Schwaggs

Gameroom Mods

10y 105K 4,760 10

Quoted from Nikrox2:
Ok, first my J115 is being redone (both the connector/pins and the board - all burnt there) -but my J120 and J121 look very different from the photos above.
Is this a diff version/rev?
Also - my GI & Back Box lighting is coming from my J115 connector (which is being replaced, but that's what led me to find the issue).
What's up? As mine "looks" factory, has one of these others been hacked to just get power to the lights? Why didn't they go back to using J115? (Or perhaps it too was burnt, so this was the quick fix?) Just throwing that out there, as I'm confused. lol (But I'm a newbie, so that happens a lot!)
[quoted image]

The red connector in the picture above is most likely a replacement connector. Most every game I have seen has white/cream plastic connectors.

J115 is the INPUT to the driver board for the GI. This is power from the transformer into the board.

J120 and J121 is where the power leaves the board and goes to the actual backbox or playfield.

All 3 of these connectors are subject to burning/melting.

#13 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Ahh! Thank you! Now it makes sense.

2 weeks later

#14 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Quoted from Schwaggs:
The red connector in the picture above is most likely a replacement connector. Most every game I have seen has white/cream plastic connectors.
J115 is the INPUT to the driver board for the GI. This is power from the transformer into the board.
J120 and J121 is where the power leaves the board and goes to the actual backbox or playfield.
All 3 of these connectors are subject to burning/melting.

Question- got my board back and the GI is all working and the backbox lights as well. The backbox flashers do not work though

Based on some hacks I’ve seen in this machine I’m thinking the original wiring is not correct. (I’ve added some photos of the diagnostic screeens but not sure it’s wired that way )

What I’m looking for is what PIN number on my J115 would feed power to J106 pin 1 (I think. It’s the one with the red wire)

I’m thinking I may have done a bad pin job and don’t want to take them all apart on J115 Just the one that feeds power to the flashers in the head

The diagnostic shows it coming from J107. But I’m Almost positive it’s this wire from J106

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#15 5 years ago

FNG

DumbAss

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 109K 2,976

Quoted from Nikrox2:
The backbox flashers do not work though
Based on some hacks I’ve seen in this machine I’m thinking the original wiring is not correct. (I’ve added some photos of the diagnostic screeens but not sure it’s wired that way )
What I’m looking for is what PIN number on my J115 would feed power to J106 pin 1 (I think. It’s the one with the red wire)
I’m thinking I may have done a bad pin job and don’t want to take them all apart on J115 Just the one that feeds power to the flashers in the head
The diagnostic shows it coming from J107. But I’m Almost positive it’s this wire from J106

J115 and J106/J107 have NO electrical connectivity. They are separate circuits running separate voltages and current type (AC versus DC).

If you have a problem with a flasher then check your drive transistor. The ones you have shown in the photos is where you should start.

#16 5 years ago

JON

Schwaggs

Gameroom Mods

10y 105K 4,760 10

Quoted from Nikrox2:
Question- got my board back and the GI is all working and the backbox lights as well. The backbox flashers do not work though
Based on some hacks I’ve seen in this machine I’m thinking the original wiring is not correct. (I’ve added some photos of the diagnostic screeens but not sure it’s wired that way )
What I’m looking for is what PIN number on my J115 would feed power to J106 pin 1 (I think. It’s the one with the red wire)
I’m thinking I may have done a bad pin job and don’t want to take them all apart on J115 Just the one that feeds power to the flashers in the head
The diagnostic shows it coming from J107. But I’m Almost positive it’s this wire from J106
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Power for the pins on J106 are input to the board on J102. That same input drives several other functions so if other flashers and such are working, I would not look at the input connector right away.

Have you checked F105?

Do the other flashers work? Both J107 and J106 get power from the same fuse for the same pins.

Have you confirmed the bulbs are good?

Re-seat the connector between the backboard and head. Look for wiring problems between the board and backboard?

#17 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Will do. Before I sent the Board off for repair they did flash. (Board is fine. Perfect). I’m the one that had to install a new connector and pins on all of the yellow wires on J115. The other flashers work and fuses “look” ok (I’ll check when I’m home to be sure ).

I was just thinking I may have not connected a pin correctly when I re- did the connector

But the landing points as shown on the screen (see photos ) do not match how it’s really connected

So not sure which pin to check that may feed power to the backbox flashers.

#18 5 years ago

???

wdennie

Inactive member

Canandaigua, NY

8y 37,350 1,321 17

I don't think they flash in attract mod.
Make sure the coin door is closed when testing.

#19 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Ugh!!! I’ve been testing with the door open! Lol. It can’t be that easy! I’ll def check that when I get home. Thank you!

#20 5 years ago

FNG

DumbAss

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 109K 2,976

Quoted from wdennie:
I don't think they flash in attract mod.
Make sure the coin door is closed when testing.

I don't believe T2 has a high voltage interlock switch. That was introduced with The Addams Family Gold Edition and later (practically - Twilight Zone and later).

#21 5 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from DumbAss:
I don't believe T2 has a high voltage interlock switch. That was introduced with The Addams Family Gold Edition and later (practically - Twilight Zone and later).

Addams Gold was after TZ.

TZ- approximately first third didn't have it, middle third had it not hooked up, last third of the game had it and hooked up and working.

LTG : )

#22 5 years ago

FNG

DumbAss

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 109K 2,976

Quoted from LTG:
Addams Gold was after TZ.
TZ- approximately first third didn't have it, middle third had it not hooked up, last third of the game had it and hooked up and working.
LTG : )

Thanks for the history and detail!

#23 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict

Once home realized didn’t matter. I was testing thru the diagnostic so the door would have to be open. So that was not an issue. And playing several games now they’re not on when the door is closes either

#24 5 years ago

LTG

Pinside member

Quoted from Nikrox2:
Once home realized didn’t matter.

Bulbs good ? 20 volts on the 20 volt test point ?

LTG : )

#25 5 years ago

NIK

Nikrox2

Pinside+ Addict