Looking forward to your review of the other sensor boards.

If you need a switch matrix for Time Warp let me know. I also have wiring diagrams.

Sorry you had trouble with the diagram. I send you a revised diagram for the Pokerino. I guess you didn’t get it. I’ve also revised the diagram on Facebook. The main difference is I showed a pink traveler because I didn’t know the actual color.

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We discussed adding .156 headers but decided that was not a good idea. Every time you add connectors you add another place for failure especially on the playfield where there is so much vibration. I think most people would solder the wires. The solder hole sizes and locations are the same as an original slider board. If .156 spacing was used it would make soldering wires more difficult. Besides once you install these boards you’ll have no reason to remove or replace them.
The multi boards have an additional column connection for jumper wires where necessary.

After you review the multi boards I think you’ll be impressed at how easy it is to install and no adjustment necessary. They work first time – every time.

Always love your reviews – keep up the good work.

Thanks

Bob

I just don’t like the idea of adding more connectors. How many problems have you had with a game because of failed connectors? Also the chance of solder splash seems greater installing the connector headers at .156.

The connectors may be good if you have to clean and adjust the sliders but these sensors don’t need to be adjusted or replaced so there is really no reason to remove them.

The problem is if I made the boards connector friendly it would make them difficult to solder wires onto the boards. The solder pads would be too small.

If you need connectors why not solder the wires to the board and install an inline molex connector. I believe Stern did this on their large target bank on Flight 2000.

Vid, Not that your words are falling on deaf ears. I have been working on a header layout design. Not sure yet – more design work to do. I’ll keep you posted. Whatever it takes to make these easy to install and use. And trouble free. That was the whole purpose of these boards.

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Nice wiring job. Very clean.

Thanks Vid for the explanation of the extension spring. Usually if the target doesn’t latch it’s because the coil doesn’t raise the targets high enough. In that case a small shim on the bottom of the target is all it takes. I’ve personally done 3 games and never had a problem.

Have you used the VHB disks to hold the magnets in place? I’ve had good results with epoxy and super glue but those disks look very promising.

Bob

frenchmarky,
I did some investigating today. You’re correct; some of the ledges are shallower than others. I pulled out 5 drop targets and measured the ledges. The average ledge is about 0.080 except one target seems to be 0.054. It does appear to be sawed off. It’s also the only one with the “T” shaped foot.

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So far everyone I talked to has had good luck with Gorilla brand super glue.

I broke a target trying to get the magnet off.

Contact me at [email protected] I have a free shipping sale going on this month.

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No problem noopy. I sent Troxel several boards last week. He should have them back in stock shortly.

Thanks for trying our sensor boards - You'll never go back to the old sliders.

4 or 5 years ago when we were testing these drop target switches I was concerned about the momentary switch. See this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-williams-drop-target-sliders-with-reed-switches

I found that the drop target switches made no difference if they were held closed. All the other switches registered normally. Switches on the same column, same row, or any other column or row. I’m sure the problem you are experiencing is on the driver board.