(Topic ID: 100397)

System1 1a fuse blowing (Newbie)


By NoMonkey

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Nighthawk128
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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System1PowerSupplySchematic.jpg
Tab.jpg
Diode.jpg

#1 5 years ago

I'm new to the pinball repair game and have recently picked up my first machine, a Gottlieb Solar Ride. It's in decent shape cosmetically by my assessment although it's not in working order.

I've been using pinrepair.com to pretty good success in terms of understanding exactly what it is I'm looking at but I'm still a total newbie when it come to diagnosis.

When I turn on the machine, some playfield lights come on but that's about it. I'm not getting any voltage to the power supply and have found that the 1a fuse behind the smaller transformer is blowing which I assume is the cause.

I've recently purchased some new bridge rectifiers (400v 35a according to pinrepair) which I plan to install today as one was out of tolerance although I'm not sure that's the problem and don't want to blindly begin replacing things past that!

Any help would be great appreciated.

Thanks,

John

#2 5 years ago

Staring with the bad bridge is a great start.

#3 5 years ago

Great, thank you so much for the reply. Replacing the bridges tonight and will post my results.

#4 5 years ago

Well, I replaced one bridge and it wasn't until afterward I realized it's only blowing the fuse with the power supply connected. Could I just need to do the ground mod? Any tips on where to begin diagnosing why it surges? I've read they have a fail-safe built in that can cause this to happen, I'm just not sure on how to find the culprit.

Thanks again,

John

#5 5 years ago

First of all I would suggest you go to the Gottlieb Club they have on Pinside - you will find people like Blown Fuse who rock at helping on these games. I know very little about them myself. However, I will say most people are not going to help ya until you do the Ground Mod because they know you can be chasing your tail for a long time for no good reason. I have seen a great video on how to do it - looks like a simple enough job, however I do not expect it to solve your problem. However, it will get you to the next step of help.

#6 5 years ago

Thank you, coz. I truly appreciate the push in the right direction here!

#7 5 years ago

You need to disconnect the output cables of the power supply and see if it blows the fuse then. That would be the top and the right side cables. Let me know after that.

#8 5 years ago

With the power supply disconnected, the fuse doesn't blow. If I connect the ps without anything connected to it, the fuse blows after about 2 seconds.

#9 5 years ago

I'll check my notes but I think that is for the 69VAC for displays. Pin 6/7 for the input of the power board. I'll get back to you.

#10 5 years ago

Ya, that happens when someone plays with them and forgets the mica paper and the plastic plugs to isolate tabs from touching ground, for example. I think this is simple but I have to look at my notes.

#11 5 years ago

Then you need to rebuild or replace your p/s board depending on your experiance. About 40.00 to rebuild. 85.00 to replace with aftermarket. I like keeping factory boards in mine for looks. Aftermarket boards are designed better and have less heat when running so last longer.

#12 5 years ago

All voltages check out at the connector. I'll go ahead and order the rebuild kit and post back once that is complete. Thank you all for your help!

#13 5 years ago

On any pin, always best to start off with nothing connected. Verify your Secondary winding outputs first, then check out the power supply physically. Inspect caps for leakage and age, test diodes and rectifiers, look for cold/bad solder joints. Then fuse by fuse/section by section plug in connectors and go through the psu until all of your voltages are squared away. At that point, do the same with the rst of the boards (diodes, cap, physical inspection and solder joints) and start connecting power to boards, starting with the mpu. If you can get the mpu to boot, then you can inspect the playfield itself for missing diodes, resistors, caps, loose wires, damage. Connect the playfield last once you have verified all the boards are reading proper voltages and don'r blow fuses. Reason being that you want to isolate playfield issues from board issues. Hope that helps.

#14 5 years ago

Excellent advice guys, and I have a good board to take a pic of to show you what I mean about the tab not touching ground. TIP31 at location Q2 is part of the 60VDC conversion so be sure it's isolated as with LIC1 and Q1 (Sure these are fine because if LIC1 was shorted, diodes CR3 and CR4 blow apart, Traces would melt around CR1 and CR2 for Q1). The four diodes at location CR6,7,8,9 make up a full wave rectifier to make the incoming AC to DC. Check those and can be tested on the board to discover a functional short. Crossing my fingers it's simple. Tab.jpgDiode.jpg

#15 5 years ago

System1PowerSupplySchematic.jpg

#16 5 years ago

Big Daddys has parts kits for this p/s with everything you need. Check his site out, lots of good stuff there.

#17 5 years ago

I can fix you up with a parts list from Digikey, your location is unknown so it's tough to recommend a place. Big Daddy ent is great for USA customers.

#18 5 years ago

A parts list I created you can buy direct from digikey i mean, complete minus resistors

#19 5 years ago

Wow, again, thank you all for the excellent replies.

I've updated my location. I've been ordering parts from mouser as I can't seem to find any place nearby to pick up electrical components. If you know of a place within 30 minutes of me that would be awesome!

It does look like perhaps the mica paper is missing but haven't fully verified that yet. I've gone ahead and ordered a rebuild kit from Big Daddy as it appears some work had already been done to the ps and I'd like to ensure everything is solid before proceeding.

On the schematics, where are those coming from? I have a blue book on Gottlieb systems that came with the machine as well as the original manual. I assume those will be invaluable but again, I'm very new to this, including working on electronics in general. The last thing I want to do is butcher this machine so definitely feel free to give me any pointers! I've been relying on pinrepair and pinwiki to keep my on the straight and narrow.

#20 5 years ago

I find Digikey reasonable and I order often enough I don't wait long, I use their "Bill of materials" for williams stuff and others. I don't touch stern units, I just don't like them lol. Like preferring GMC over Ford so I have no good reason to hate them. I bought from Marco ages ago the Gottlieb System 1 Service Manual, it's about 25$ and as well Pinball Resource sells them and they have a very good parts selection for those machines. The schematic I posted I just googled that one for you. Someone put some very helpful information on that. Gottliebs licence holder is real anal about that info being out there so you'll end up purchasing that service manual most likely.

You'll learn little things like disabling slam switches by jumping a cap on the MPU which will alleviate potential headaches down the road. Taking fine paper (I use 1200 Grit) to just clean the stack switches for the Tilt and Game over relays. That cleans things up like flickering GI lighting and other oddball things.

I forgot to mention, that fuse should be a 1/4A fuse for the 69VAC supply. Other then that, I hope you enjoy the experience. Just ask any time I love these old machines

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