System 80B “Night moves” trouble shooting

0

#1 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Hi guys, I’ve been trying to figure out how to get my Gottlieb Night Moves machine up and running.
I bought it not working. Previous owner had said it slowly started going out.

Now when plugged in and flipped on, only 3 play field lights glow and a blinking red light on the sound board show. There is a humm or static from the speaker.

I’ve sent out the MPU for repair, it had acid damage, and has been restored and tested by the shop, deemed working.

I have reflowed all the pins on all the boards.
I checked all fuses visually and with continuity using a multimeter.

Problem I have is I don’t know where to test for voltage.
I have a good multimeter, but I don’t know exactly where to probe? I don’t want to get shocked, lol.

Can some one draw or explain what contacts I’m probing on the PSU?
I’ll upload a image of the PSU.
Thanks guys!

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#2 2 years ago

FRN

Friengineer

Pinside member

10y 70,550 1,830 5

J1 is the three pins, space, two pins. That's the bottom of the PS. The two pins on the right are Ground. The three on the left are 12V DC input.

Measure J1 harness for 12VDC.

J2 is six pins. All 5VDC output pins. Should be able to measure voltage from ground to any of the pins.

Adjust Res Pot to change voltage.

Measure voltage at MPU. My PS supplies more than 5vdc but by the time it hits the MPU it's around 4.9V

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3

#3 2 years ago

FRN

Friengineer

Pinside member

10y 70,550 1,830 5

Also one cannot post 80B schematics because of someone owns the bullshit ass copyright

0

#4 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Thank you.

Seems like after taking a closer look at the fuses actually installed, they don’t seem to match what is required....

So here’s what is installed:
F1: 1A 250V *
F2: 6 1/4A 250
F3: 1/4A 250V
F4: 8A 250V
F5: 10A 32V
F6: 8A 250V
F9: 1A 250V
F9A: 1A 250V

F8: 5A 250V
F20: 8A 250V

* Is it ok that F1 is using a higher amp and a different voltage than required listing? It states “.5A 32V”

Problem is I can't seem to locate a “.5A 32V” fuse on eBay or Amazon?!? Do they exist?

Also F8 and F20 do not state the volts required, just “115V AC”, do they fuses use 32V or 250V?

Also while probing the PSU, I literally got no reading, the numbers bounced and never really stopped at anything close... I had the machine on and probed using a auto multimeter. (See pic)

Bad PSU? Or is it the fuses?
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#5 2 years ago

FRN

Friengineer

Pinside member

10y 70,550 1,830 5

I would NOT over fuse. I could be wrong but I would replace the fuses with the correct amperage and forget about those 32v requirements. 250vac will work.

Here's a great place to source pinball electronics including fuses.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp

You should run a continuity test on each of the fuses to see if they are good. Pull the fuses out of the holders when you do it.

Also here's a good tech resource:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#/media/File%3AGtb_sys80_1st_gen_boardset.jpg

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1

#6 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from Friengineer:
I would NOT over fuse. I could be wrong but I would replace the fuses with the correct amperage and forget about those 32v requirements. 250vac will work.
Here's a great place to source pinball electronics including fuses.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp
You should run a continuity test on each of the fuses to see if they are good. Pull the fuses out of the holders when you do it.
Also here's a good tech resource:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#/media/File%3AGtb_sys80_1st_gen_boardset.jpg

Each fuse was tested for continuity, and all passed.
I've ordered a new "1/2A x 250V" fuse for F1.

How can I test the Bottom of the cabinet Transformers and Lugs?

I've read the PinWiki several times, but it doesn't state if the machine should be ON while testing the Lugs? LOL, I don't want to get shocked!

0

#7 2 years ago

FRN

Friengineer

Pinside member

10y 70,550 1,830 5

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
How can I test the Bottom of the cabinet Transformers and Lugs?

Alligator clips. Clip one end to your DMM and the other to the lugs. Turn game on. Read measurement. Turn game off, switch lugs.

Radio shack, homedepot, hardware store should have a set of alligator clips.

0

#8 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from Friengineer:
Alligator clips. Clip one end to your DMM and the other to the lugs. Turn game on. Read measurement. Turn game off, switch lugs.
Radio shack, homedepot, hardware store should have a set of alligator clips.

Thank you.
The Bridge Reflectors have been tested and all reading about .48 to .49.
I replaced all fuses with new ones. All with the correct voltage.

I am suspecting my Power Supply. But my PSU isn't like other System1 or System80 machines. It has a AUX PSU attached.

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#9 2 years ago

LXL

Isochronic_Frost

Saratoga Silverball

7y 221K 9,403 108 1 1

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
Thank you.
The Bridge Reflectors have been tested and all reading about .48 to .49.
I replaced all fuses with new ones. All with the correct voltage.
I am suspecting my Power Supply. But my PSU isn't like other System1 or System80 machines. It has a AUX PSU attached.[quoted image][quoted image]

Why does it have an auxiliary power supply? That’s probably your issue. Lots of those aftermarket ones are crap and not reliable.

I actually have a spare transformer for Night Moves if you need one. Post pictures of what your unit looks like

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#10 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Why does it have an auxiliary power supply? That’s probably your issue. Lots of those aftermarket ones are crap and not reliable.
I actually have a spare transformer for Night Moves if you need one. Post pictures of what your unit looks like

That’s great, I’m glad I found someone with the same machine as me.
Looking at the manual, the PSU and Aux PSU are both listed on there, so does that mean there are not aftermarket? I ordered a replacement PSU and Aux PSU, just to rule them out. Hopefully they are the right ones?
What PSU are you using? Or what is your setup look like inside the black box.
I seem to have everything “original” or at least listed on the Night Moves manual that I have.

As for the Transformer, how would I go in checking mine is working correctly? Where do I probe?

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1

#11 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

I was able to test the PSU.
Coming into J1 I’m getting about 15.1 on all three wires and the 4th wire is ground.
Once it goes into the PSU, I was able to adjust the pot to 5.14. J2 going out at 5.14 (see pic).
Then I tested a eprom chip on the MPU, not sure how to test the MPU but I set the meter at 20 DCV and picked up .50 (see pic) not sure if this is correct!?
Need some more guidance to continue testing...

I still get no display, no sound, no play field lights (just 3 lights are on), blinking red light at the sound board, and adding coins and pressing buttons does nothing. No ground mods have been installed.

I posted some extra photos of the machine and inside the black box.

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0

#12 2 years ago

FRN

Friengineer

Pinside member

10y 70,550 1,830 5

What is the voltage at the blue/purple capacitor on the MPU. I found in the past, my PS had 5V coming out but by the time it hit the capacitor it was at 4Ish volts. If that's the case play with the trim pot to get more volts.

The game won't boot without 5V at that point in the MPU.

Also, you should buy this:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php

The piggyduex removes the daughter board card from the system. The daughter board's solder points try out and are a pain in the ass to repair.

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2

#13 2 years ago

???

Robotworkshop

Pinside+ Frequent

7y 80,800 3,379

Quoted from Friengineer:
Also one cannot post 80B schematics because of someone owns the bullshit ass copyright

Not so for Night Moves as it was marketed by another company. Manual with schematics are on IPDB.ORG

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=3507

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1

#14 2 years ago

???

Robotworkshop

Pinside+ Frequent

7y 80,800 3,379

Quoted from Friengineer:
What is the voltage at the blue/purple capacitor on the MPU. I found in the past, my PS had 5V coming out but by the time it hit the capacitor it was at 4Ish volts. If that's the case play with the trim pot to get more volts.
The game won't boot without 5V at that point in the MPU.
Also, you should buy this:
https://www.pinitech.com/products/gottlieb_piggydeux.php
The piggyduex removes the daughter board card from the system. The daughter board's solder points try out and are a pain in the ass to repair.

I'd hold off getting that new board unless there is a confirmed problem with the MPU with the existing daughterboard. I've never had to change one yet. Still have the original in my Night Moves.

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1

#15 2 years ago

???

Robotworkshop

Pinside+ Frequent

7y 80,800 3,379

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
That’s great, I’m glad I found someone with the same machine as me.
Looking at the manual, the PSU and Aux PSU are both listed on there, so does that mean there are not aftermarket? I ordered a replacement PSU and Aux PSU, just to rule them out. Hopefully they are the right ones?
What PSU are you using? Or what is your setup look like inside the black box.
I seem to have everything “original” or at least listed on the Night Moves manual that I have.
As for the Transformer, how would I go in checking mine is working correctly? Where do I probe?[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm running the original power boards in my Night Moves. The adjustment pot on the original board sucks. I replaced mine with a sealed precision 10-turn version. I'll have to get a picture.

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1

#16 2 years ago

???

tommy_pinball

Pinside member

Orillia, ON

4y 17,300 18

If not done already, you are going to need to replace the edge connector pins on your connectors mating to the MPU board.

I worked on this board, removed the rotten reset components, cleaned the board, replaced the reset section with a MCP130-460DI/TO & tested the board thoroughly. The original daughter board was perfect and functioned as it should with no broken traces, good and solid. So unless it was mishandled on installation I wouldn't worry about it.
However, the board's edge connector fingers were in rough shape at one point. They were cleaned and re-tinned by someone else so unless the pins in the connector shells are replaced you will have nothing but problems including most likely no +5V to the MPU logic. You can purchase the pins, removal tool & crimper from Ed at Great Plains Electronics.

As mentioned by Robotworkshop there is probably nothing wrong with the original Power Supplies other than a possible flakey 500 ohm adjustment pot.

Brent

0

#17 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

Here is a video that i made a while ago on the repining process. Hope it helps

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#18 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

If you havent already, i would take every conector on every board and unplug and plug back in 4+ times and then power back up and see if there is any change. Just as a starting point. Doing this will sometimes clean up the pins and connectors. Sorry late to the conversation, but this is where i would have started.

0

#19 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

I am very pleased with the advise and help.

These are all the things I’ve tried so far.
My machine still does not boot.

- Sent out MPU to tommy_pinball for repair, it had battery leakage and acid damage.
- I reflowed every “Pin” connector on every board inside the black box.
- Changed out every fuse to a new one, matching specs listed on manual and on boards.
- Adjusted my current “Pot” to 5.1v
- Tested the Bridge Rectifiers
- The power plug had the third prong “ground” cut off, so I added a new 3 prong power adapter.

I ordered a new PSU and Aux PSU, they arrived today and will add them once I get home from work and report back.

I have not messed with any “edge connector pins” yet. I have never done those and will probably need guidance on restoring them.

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#20 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:I have not messed with any “edge connector pins” yet. I have never done those and will probably need guidance on restoring them.

Start with unpluging and replugging everything a few times then, if no change, check out my video above

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#21 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

Im on vacation this week or else i would be much more invested in this project of yours. Ive owned many gottliebs and have owned my Night Moves for 10 years. If your still working on this next week youll have my full attention. Best of luck!
Keep posting guestions. Ill chime in when i can

0

#22 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from swampshroom:
Im on vacation this week or else i would be much more invested in this project of yours. Ive owned many gottliebs and have owned my Night Moves for 10 years. If your still working on this next week youll have my full attention. Best of luck!
Keep posting guestions. Ill chime in when i can

Thanks a bunch! Enjoy your holiday.

I’l check out that video later tonight.

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#23 2 years ago

???

Robotworkshop

Pinside+ Frequent

7y 80,800 3,379

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
Thanks a bunch! Enjoy your holiday.
I’l check out that video later tonight.

You’re going to enjoy that game once you get it running. It is surprisingly good and everyone that plays it loves it. Plays better than many full size machines. Definitely one of the top cocktail pins made. Too bad they didn’t make more of them. I wonder how many survive.

0

#24 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from swampshroom:
Here is a video that i made a while ago on the repining process. Hope it helps

Good news and bad news for me. Lol.

So I watched your video about re-pining.
I found on my MPU that the J1 Connector had two pins that were damaged and thus not making contact with the board via edge connector. The schematic for that molex plug is
Pin 1 : Ground
Pin 2 : Ground
Pin 3 : >empty<
Pin 4 : +5V
Pin 5 : +5V

Pin 2 and 5 are missing the “ramp” inside the connector. That was my good news! I may have found the reason why my MPU wasn’t booting? Question: Does it need both +5volts and both grounds to boot?
Looks like both grounds go to the same place and both 5volts also meet up. (See last pic)

Bad news for me is; I have to wait “patiently” lol, for the parts to arrive.

Can I test it with alligator clips? Before the parts arrive? Or is it ok to directly solder to the MPU, or will that damage the tin?

Photos for reference.
1D4E093D-758B-4785-B9C1-F5220992D7BB (resized).jpeg6292D192-1A1C-404B-98C5-5092F60B7AE5 (resized).jpegBAB299CE-64CD-4579-BE11-5042040C9DAD (resized).jpegE8105EBB-605B-4D86-81E7-5A54F6039F5B (resized).jpeg

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#25 2 years ago

LXL

Isochronic_Frost

Saratoga Silverball

7y 221K 9,403 108 1 1

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
Good news and bad news for me. Lol.
So I watched your video about re-pining.
I found on my MPU that the J1 Connector had two pins that were damaged and thus not making contact with the board via edge connector. The schematic for that molex plug is
Pin 1 : Ground
Pin 2 : Ground
Pin 3 : >empty<
Pin 4 : +5V
Pin 5 : +5V
Pin 2 and 5 are missing the “ramp” inside the connector. That was my good news! I may have found the reason why my MPU wasn’t booting? Question: Does it need both +5volts and both grounds to boot?
Looks like both grounds go to the same place and both 5volts also meet up. (See last pic)
Bad news for me is; I have to wait “patiently” lol, for the parts to arrive.
Can I test it with alligator clips? Before the parts arrive? Or is it ok to directly solder to the MPU, or will that damage the tin?
Photos for reference.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Yeah, if they’re not all making contact. Those were probably destroyed by the acid damage and thus failed. The new AUX PSU and the other thing you bought are probably not necessary. Sys80b is still extremely reliable once you cut out the useless reset board, and fix any battery issues.

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#26 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Yeah if they’re not all making contact. Those were probably destroyed by the acid damage and thus failed. The new AUX PSU and the other thing you bought are probably not necessary. Sys80b is still extremely reliable once you cut out the useless reset board, and fix any battery issues.

Ya luckily I have the option to return them.

Right now, I’m chomping at the bits to test it.

Lol, I’m to impatient to wait for the parts to arrive.
I want to know if I can alligator clip the wires to the board and attempt to power it on?

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#27 2 years ago

???

Robotworkshop

Pinside+ Frequent

7y 80,800 3,379

I had to repin that connector on mine and one other. Pretty normal

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#28 2 years ago

LXL

Isochronic_Frost

Saratoga Silverball

7y 221K 9,403 108 1 1

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
Ya luckily I have the option to return them.
Right now, I’m chomping at the bits to test it.
Lol, I’m to impatient to wait for the parts to arrive.
I want to know if I can alligator clip the wires to the board and attempt to power it on?

I think an alligator clip would probably work for testing? Don’t solder directly. Those edge-connectors are discontinued and impossible to replace. Only replace the 2 you need to. I’ve heard that any spare pins are going for crazy prices now.

0

2

#29 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

The pins that are in the connector from your pictures are not the really expensive/unattainable ones. The expensive ones are the ones in the black connectors in the harness that goes between the main MPU and the driver board. The connector in your picture, re-pin that whole thing at your earliest opportunity.
The alligator clip idea is a good one. It will help you keep trouble shooting and fixing while your wating on parts.

0

3

#30 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

So I decided to alligator clip the J1 connector to the MPU to test, while my parts are being shipped.

We have life!

The machine powered up

I ran a test and I don’t really know what I was looking for, but other than some field play lights being out, I noticed that under switch matrix, switch 27 and 47 are closed, is that ok?
Edit: never mind, I read the manual and understand what switches are used for

Also one large yellow bumper has a light that remains lit all the time, not sure how to fix that.

This is my first time working on a pinball machine, so as I continue going through the list, I am going to have more questions, thanks for helping me out, I love learning.
5182AA0E-4090-4AF1-91DB-C4C7CD421D79 (resized).jpeg7A80BC5D-FD6E-4098-81DE-F850EF605255 (resized).jpeg87CD2D49-9EB4-46F8-9F22-ED49D04788B3 (resized).jpegDDB5A878-3770-4B0A-9BD6-AFE99EC4B6D5 (resized).jpeg

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#31 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

Congratulations! Good job sticking with it. The large yellow pop bumper lights are always on. It looks out of place because your left pop light is burnt out. Get a new bulb in there. Looking at your playfield, it looks great. No paint loss on your inserts.
Let us know if you come across more questions.

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#32 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from swampshroom:
Congratulations! Good job sticking with it. The large yellow pop bumper lights are always on. It looks out of place because your left pop light is burnt out. Get a new bulb in there. Looking at your playfield, it looks great. No paint loss on your inserts.
Let us know if you come across more questions.

Thanks.

I’ve had this machine open for a while and dust is on the play field, what’s a accurate way of cleaning it without ruining it? Also how many balls are suppose to be inside the play field 3 or 5? The machine came with 5 balls, but were in a box inside the black box, I’ve noticed if I add all 5, the game acts up and doesn’t spit them out right.

I will go through all bulbs and inspect them.
Is there a model number on the bulbs? I know some led lights run very hot and smoke/ burn out. I want to make sure I get the right LEDs.

I do have some paint stripping off the LED board; “Ball in play”, “Match”, “Credits”.
Is there a special way to repaint or vinyl them?

0D69F9A1-74FA-4C30-B8BA-A10B2AE47B9D (resized).jpeg

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#33 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

Here is a link to the most concise article on pinside regarding cleaning and waxing playfields
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide
Night Moves is a 3 ball game.

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1

#34 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

Here is the pinside article talking about incandescent pinball bulbs. Spaciffically 42 vs 47
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bulbs-44-vs-47
There are so many pinside forum topics regarding LEDing a pinball machine. Just start reading. It's a bit overwhelming. I personally love comet pinballs LEDs
https://www.cometpinball.com/
As for the text on your translucent blue screen. I would advise using water slide decals. Check out this article from Vid
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

Do not use naptha or rubbing alcohol or any other cleaner on the lettering on you blue screen. It will remove it so fast. As for the blue screen just use a damp cloth. But only use it on the screen, not on the playfield.

0

#35 2 years ago

LXL

Isochronic_Frost

Saratoga Silverball

7y 221K 9,403 108 1 1

Quoted from swampshroom:
Here is a link to the most concise article on pinside regarding cleaning and waxing playfields
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide
Night Moves is a 3 ball game.

Meant to respond sooner, Night moves is a 2 ball game!

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
Thanks.
I’ve had this machine open for a while and dust is on the play field, what’s a accurate way of cleaning it without ruining it? Also how many balls are suppose to be inside the play field 3 or 5? The machine came with 5 balls, but were in a box inside the black box, I’ve noticed if I add all 5, the game acts up and doesn’t spit them out right.
I will go through all bulbs and inspect them.
Is there a model number on the bulbs? I know some led lights run very hot and smoke/ burn out. I want to make sure I get the right LEDs.
I do have some paint stripping off the LED board; “Ball in play”, “Match”, “Credits”.
Is there a special way to repaint or vinyl them? [quoted image]

The score window is sold by PBR still, you can get a replacement. Water slides would probably be a lot cheaper. There are rubber spacers underneath it that are almost certainly rotten and if that’s the case you will notice the plastic window sitting slightly lower than the playfield, this will cause excessive wear.

Use Comet LEDs. I believe they are 6.3v
It’s pretty standard in pinball. The base number is what’s important

0

#36 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Meant to respond sooner, Night moves is a 2 ball game!

The score window is sold by PBR still, you can get a replacement. Water slides would probably be a lot cheaper. There are rubber spacers underneath it that are almost certainly rotten and if that’s the case you will notice the plastic window sitting slightly lower than the playfield, this will cause excessive wear.
Use Comet LEDs. I believe they are 6.3v
It’s pretty standard in pinball. The base number is what’s important

I troubleshooted the balls, and I also came to the conclusion, it’s a 2 ball game. When I added the 3rd ball, it would kick out another ball onto the plunger while another ball was in play. So yes, 2 balls. Thank you.

Also regarding the score board text, would acrylic paint work? I’ll look into a replacement board as well. Thanks for the link.

I ordered comet LEDs, but in the mean time, I noticed some lights are not turning on. I’ve swapped out bulbs to test and they never came on. The lights are for the standby info regarding game play instructions and pricing.
Can I get some help searching for a remedy?
Pics for reference, yes the bulbs look burnt or dark, but I can assure you, I replaced them with working ones and they didn’t light up.

17397C82-55E8-4B65-8582-835F4ED10892 (resized).jpeg

CA26AE4D-0FFE-4EFB-B7A2-6685BBF36EB9 (resized).jpeg

FAFAF1CE-7E7E-4D5F-811E-9F8F3EBD8207 (resized).jpeg

0

#37 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

Sorry my bad. Yep 2 ball

0

#38 2 years ago

LXL

Isochronic_Frost

Saratoga Silverball

7y 221K 9,403 108 1 1

OP
Quoted from Karloz25:
I troubleshooted the balls, and I also came to the conclusion, it’s a 2 ball game. When I added the 3rd ball, it would kick out another ball onto the plunger while another ball was in play. So yes, 2 balls. Thank you.
Also regarding the score board text, would acrylic paint work? I’ll look into a replacement board as well. Thanks for the link.
I ordered comet LEDs, but in the mean time, I noticed some lights are not turning on. I’ve swapped out bulbs to test and they never came on. The lights are for the standby info regarding game play instructions and pricing.
Can I get some help searching for a remedy?
Pics for reference, yes the bulbs look burnt or dark, but I can assure you, I replaced them with working ones and they didn’t light up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is called GI which stands for General Illumination. I’d highly recommend researching and learning all the common terminology in this hobby so when we help you, all of us are on the same page. Acrylic paint will probably not work, as it will be raised, impairing the smooth surface the ball needs to roll on.

0

1

#39 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
This is called GI which stands for General Illumination. I’d highly recommend researching and learning all the common terminology in this hobby so when we help you, all of us are on the same page. Acrylic paint will probably not work, as it will be raised, impairing the smooth surface the ball needs to roll on.

After researching GI, I was able to locate the T switch and found it was open, I bent the leaf so that it stays closed. And the lights came on.

My crimps and pins came in today, I replaced and removed my alligator clips and my machine is working great!

Thank you all for helping a amateur and being patient with me.

I have learned a lot.

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#40 2 years ago

JRB

JRBBRJ

Pinside member

Westminster, CO

4y 55,050 333 6

This thread is great. It’s the closest thing to an owners thread for night moves.
I’ve had mine for about one year and have received great info from Isochronic frost. Little did I know there was another night moves knowledge base close to me in Colorado.

So far I have had to rebuild a flipper (first time) and do some minor cleaning. This game is one of the favorites for everyone that comes over.

Have any of you brought yours to a show before? Could it handle that type of play for a weekend or is that just inviting trouble?

0

1

#41 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from JRBBRJ:
This thread is great. It’s the closest thing to an owners thread for night moves.
I’ve had mine for about one year and have received great info from Isochronic frost. Little did I know there was another night moves knowledge base close to me in Colorado.
So far I have had to rebuild a flipper (first time) and do some minor cleaning. This game is one of the favorites for everyone that comes over.
Have any of you brought yours to a show before? Could it handle that type of play for a weekend or is that just inviting trouble?

I love this site. I had to donate to join the site, but with the knowledge that here, it was well worth it.

It like a double edge sword, I hope I don’t have any more problems, but then again I want to learn how to fix these. I wouldn’t know where to start on repairing a flipper! Lol.

As for shows, since I am new to pinball, I didn’t know you can take a machine to a show, then what? It gets played by everyone and entered in competitions? Can they be sold there too?
I am in the valley, California, I am going to look up shows in the area. It would be fun to go to one.

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#42 2 years ago

JRB

JRBBRJ

Pinside member

Westminster, CO

4y 55,050 333 6

Yeah everyone would be able to play on free play at a show. Some people sell the machines they bring to shows.

For example if you bring a full size arcade or pinball machine to Rocky Mountain pinball showdown you get a free 3 day pass to event. I don’t plan on bringing a machine this year but if I bulletproof my night moves by next year I would consider it.

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#43 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from JRBBRJ:
Yeah everyone would be able to play on free play at a show. Some people sell the machines they bring to shows.
For example if you bring a full size arcade or pinball machine to Rocky Mountain pinball showdown you get a free 3 day pass to event. I don’t plan on bringing a machine this year but if I bulletproof my night moves by next year I would consider it.

What does bulletproof mean?

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#44 2 years ago

JRB

JRBBRJ

Pinside member

Westminster, CO

4y 55,050 333 6

That’s not a pinball term. I guess the technical thought would be a full shop on the game, also going through the boards making sure everything looked good, and finally getting around to installing a nvram.

Basically making sure it was ready to get played a few hundred times over a few days. In our basement it hasn’t been played more than 20 times in a single day.

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#45 2 years ago

OP

???

Karloz25

Pinside member

Unknown

2y 13,150 37

Quoted from JRBBRJ:
That’s not a pinball term. I guess the technical thought would be a full shop on the game, also going through the boards making sure everything looked good, and finally getting around to installing a nvram.
Basically making sure it was ready to get played a few hundred times over a few days. In our basement it hasn’t been played more than 20 times in a single day.

Ah, got it, basically insuring it will survive the abuse

0

#46 2 years ago

BKD

swampshroom

Pinside member

Aurora, CO

9y 46,550 183 5

A few years ago there was a NM at CO pin showdown. I've brought machines to showdown in the past. Not sure it's worth the free pass. Especially how difficult it is to get them in and out of my basement. Sadly not bring any games this year.