(Topic ID: 133759)

System 80 power issue

By Gr8snook09

8 years ago


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  • 80 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Gr8snook09
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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There are 80 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 years ago

Okay, since I have to depend on what others see/report and without seeing your game myself, I'm stumped. I tried all the basic stuff given the information in this thread and even went into some odd areas from past experiences for troubleshooting. I'll have to wait for the report from Fred to see what he discovers if anything is damaged. If he can give you an effect, the cause can be diagnosed.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#52 8 years ago

I'll jump out a window if he says everything is good! Lol.

2 weeks later
#53 8 years ago

Boards are back to Fred. We'll see what he says....

1 week later
#54 8 years ago

Well Fred said there was nothing wrong with the boards....so I guess I'm screwed. I don't know what else to check. I've replaced every edge connector, every molex pin, caps, boards, fuse block and fuses, bridge rectifiers...ugh !

#55 8 years ago

Anyone know how to test the voltage coming directly out of the transformer? I haven't tried that...not sure it's the problem but I need to try and eliminate everything in the bottom cabinet.

#56 8 years ago

Go back and check every molex pin you changed and make sure they are making connection from one end to the other, they might look good but still might not be working get your dmm out and check them

#57 8 years ago

I don't think the connectors are the issue since I unplugged all connectors except J1 and I still get the voltage drop when plugging in J2. I think maybe the transformer isn't pushing out what it should when J2 gets plugged in...remember no other connectors are connected I've unplugged every single other plug trying to narrow it down to a connector.

#58 8 years ago

Did you check fuse holders? Tight. No voltage drop should be seen across the holder. Power on and fuse in.

#59 8 years ago

Replaced all fuse holders, but I will double check them.

#60 8 years ago

On a small side note....anyone know how to keep the star gate ramp tube in place? Is it supposed to be glued to the factory plastic straps??

#61 8 years ago
Quoted from Gr8snook09:

On a small side note....anyone know how to keep the star gate ramp tube in place? Is it supposed to be glued to the factory plastic straps??

Nope. Just tighten the straps.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#62 8 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Nope. Just tighten the straps.

Dang! Mine still slides little by little.

#63 8 years ago
Quoted from Gr8snook09:

Dang! Mine still slides little by little.

Perhaps a dab of hot glue or some mounting tape.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#64 8 years ago

In Review:

Remove A7J10 - the connector associated with the sound board and A2J2 of the power supply.

1. At the C1 capacitor in the bottom of the game measure the voltage between the two exposed terminals.
Expected reading 12VDC. This is the output of the bridge rectifier and smoothed by the capacitor C1.
2. With A2J2 of the power supply connected, check the voltage between the two exposed terminals of C1.
Expected reading of 12VDC.

If all measures as expected, continue. If not, there is a problem on the bottom board that will need to be addressed.

3. Remove A2J2 of the power supply.
Measure input voltage at connector A2J1 pins 1 and 2 (pin 2 is +12VDC, pin 1 ground) -- not the test point.
Expected reading of 12VDC.

4. With J2 of the power supply attached measure A2J1 pins 1 and 2 again.
Expected reading of 12VDC.

Please report results.

#65 8 years ago
Quoted from minnesota13:

In Review:
Remove A7J10 - the connector associated with the sound board and A2J2 of the power supply.
1. At the C1 capacitor in the bottom of the game measure the voltage between the two exposed terminals.
Expected reading 12VDC. This is the output of the bridge rectifier and smoothed by the capacitor C1.
2. With A2J2 of the power supply connected, check the voltage between the two exposed terminals of C1.
Expected reading of 12VDC.
If all measures as expected, continue. If not, there is a problem on the bottom board that will need to be addressed.
3. Remove A2J2 of the power supply.
Measure input voltage at connector A2J1 pins 1 and 2 (pin 2 is +12VDC, pin 1 ground) -- not the test point.
Expected reading of 12VDC.
4. With J2 of the power supply attached measure A2J1 pins 1 and 2 again.
Expected reading of 12VDC.
Please report results.

So with DMM set to DC put one lead on one terminal of the cap and the other lead on the other? Does it matter which goes on which? Should it be done with power on? Also on my schematic it shows pin 2 as the ground, not 1 or were you referring to the lead color?? Thanks for answering these beginner questions. I'm pretty new to this, but trying to learn!

#66 8 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Perhaps a dab of hot glue or some mounting tape

I was going to try some weld-on gel

#67 8 years ago

Measuring the voltage at the capacitor you should place the black or negative probe on the negative marked terminal of the capacitor. The Red or positive probe should go to the unmarked positive terminal of the capacitor. The game should be on. Exercise care in making this measurement to avoid shorting the two capacitor terminals together with a probe. You might consider using clip leads to reduce the danger of the shorting the two capacitor terminals.

You are correct, I reversed the pins for the 12VDC input and ground. Pin 2 is ground/black probe, pin 1 is the 12VDC/red probe.

Don't forget to remove the sound board connector which is easy to overlook because of its location, mounted in bottom cabinet left side.

#68 8 years ago

The first reading I took with everything unplugged except J1 and power on was 14.3. DMM black probe on "-" and red on "+". DMM on DC. Dial set at 200 in the section marked V.
With J1 and J2 plugged in it reads 13.1

#69 8 years ago

I might have just figured it out(maybe not sure yet). The IC Chips are on the MPU board with the blue clamp down holders (the ones with the little lever on the side). Pretty sure one or more of the chips weren't centered when I received this new board. When the MPU was shipped back to Fred and tested in another machine he must have centered the chips (I never checked them when I first got it). I just popped in my old MPU and I got no voltage drop. My old MPU has the chips soldered in. Also when the MPU was shipped back to me Fred said to make sure the chips are centered, however when I got the board back it was damaged so I returned it today. When I receive the replacement I'll test my theory. But it's all I could think of. Would an off center chip cause that voltage drop??

#70 8 years ago

1. Your bottom cabinet is making 12VDC just fine.
2. It is getting to your power board that does the conversion to 5VDC just fine.

If what you are saying is that the socketed chips are not completely down in their sockets, it
sure can be your problem if the chips are attempting to get power thru a bad connections.

It becomes clear when you say the original board does not have the problem, but the new
board does. Something is amiss with the new board.

#71 8 years ago
Quoted from minnesota13:

1. Your bottom cabinet is making 12VDC just fine.
2. It is getting to your power board that does the conversion to 5VDC just fine.
If what you are saying is that the socketed chips are not completely down in their sockets, it
sure can be your problem if the chips are attempting to get power thru a bad connections.
It becomes clear when you say the original board does not have the problem, but the new
board does. Something is amiss with the new board.

Right! And I never did check the seating of those chips! Been pulling my hair out. We'll see what happens when the MPU board comes back from Fred.

1 week later
#72 8 years ago

Ok so the replacement MPU board will be here tomorrow and I want to make sure that once the machine is delivering a steady 5.0 volts with both A2J1 and A2J2 connected to the Power supply board and A2J2/A1J1 connected to the MPU that I get the correct order of systematically plugging things in to check for problems. What order should I go in? Displays first then interconnect, play field switches, lamp drivers and soundboard last ??
Thanks for any help in powering this thing up correctly!!

#73 8 years ago

Ok. Getting 5.0v with everything hooked up. Game booting. Go to start a game and all the lights on the play field blink in unison and the ball won't kick out. There are 3 balls in the trough but aren't advancing. Never had this issue prior to this. Where is the best place to start on this problem. If the trough switch isn't working would all the play field lights blink in unison? I can't remember if it does this in waiting for the ball to kick out. Little by little ill get this baby bulletproof!! (I hope...lol)

#74 8 years ago

I would go into solenoid test and verify that all of the solenoids are operating such as the solenoid that serves the ball.

If all is OK with the solenoids, then with balls removed and all drop targets up, go to switch test and first make sure
there are no stuck switches. Then check the trough switches.

You may have to remove the apron to see the ball release solenoid function. Sometimes the ball trough and ball release
mechanisms have problems. Recently a the ball release mechanism was sluggish and would not release a ball. Someone had oiled the shaft and it was gummed up.

#75 8 years ago

The solenoid tests all worked but like you just said the solenoid that first feeds the balls into the trough was very weak. What exactly do you mean by a "stuck" switch ?? Thanks !!

#76 8 years ago

Is the solenoid really weak orr is the mechanism sticky? Take it apart and clean it before pursuing "weak solenoid."

Stuck switch is a switch that is normally open that is stuck closed. The switch will need to be adjust to be normally open and
then closed with ball interaction or drop target down.

#77 8 years ago

I couldn't locate any stuck switches. Actually the solenoid that kicks the ball up the trough to the solenoid that pops it out to the shooter lane is fine. I had thought it was weak because it was trying to flip 3 balls up the trough. When it does them one at a time it is fine. It will only kick the first ball up though.

#78 8 years ago

Still trying to find out why the balls don't continue to advance and the game won't start. Credits register when coins are inserted, press credit button and player one flashes zero as it should, drop targets don't reset, play field continues to blink and ball doesn't eject.

#79 8 years ago

Also...The trough has all 3 balls in it, past the first switch and on the second switch. The eject solenoid works during the solenoid test so it has to be something with the last switch before the eject solenoid, no??

#80 8 years ago

I'm going to start a different thread with the start up issue since my power issue has been solved. Thanks to everyone who tried helping on that one! On to this new one. Can someone close this thread as fixed, solved or however that works?? Thanks again folks !!

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