Littleton, CO
Just got this put back together(bought it from some one in pieces) won't power up..... F5 fuse blown will this prevent power to whole game
(Topic ID: 148310)
Linked Games
El Dorado City of Gold
Gottlieb, 1984
Topic Gallery
Newmarket, ON
It would make is so you don't see the controlled lights, even if they work, so it would look dead if you also had a display issue. If you still have nothing after replacing the bridge, it had to be replaced anyway. You may find that there's another bad bridge rectifier too, they go bad a lot when they are old. You have to start somewhere when firing up a game. Always make sure the power supply is good and working flawlessly before trying to diagnose other issues you see. I bet you'll find that the A2 power supply has header pin issues (solder cracks), they most often do. If so, this may keep the 5VDC from getting to the CPU board.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from wierdeer:thanx steve so do you know if it would cause total power loss?
You can still have 5VDC header pin (A2J2 & A2J3) issues and still see the correct voltage at the test points. If so, none of the boards will work in the game, thus no sounds or activity. The 3 bridge rectifiers are located down where your fuses are on the right side of your second picture above.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Logic_Probes Look for "17 Testing a Bridge Rectifier".
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from wierdeer:How do I test them with a multimeter? I'm not the brightest bulb in the box
Yes, that's how it done but you need to remove the heat sink to do the job. I'd just upgrade/rebuild it and replace the caps too while I was at it. This will effect that mess on the Q1 transistor (needs fixing too) so if you're not comfortable with that, you may have to get someone to do it for you. I recommend Chris Hibler, he posts on this site and does excellent repair work for a reasonable price.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from wierdeer:Should I just re float solder on back of power supply at tho pin locations
LOL, thanks ....... I think.
Steve
Quoted from wierdeer:steve you are a pimp for taking the time to help me
None of those fridge readings are bad.
In the first pic, you are measuring catecorner.
Is the PS creating 5VDC?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Yup, no 5VDC being made to run the boards. Possibly the Q1 regulator is toast. From your picture, it looks like someone did a hack job on it to try and get it to work.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from wierdeer:There is an led that says 5v that does not light up
OK...so that's a problem.
Test to see if the input voltage to the PS (connector on the left side of the PS in your pic) is correct, per the manual.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
That heat sink is not soldered to the board.
I can see that someone hacked the rehab of that PS pretty bad.
I see a 30 ohm resistor there for R10. That's not right.
See: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Updates_and_Repairs_for_the_System_80.2F80A_Power_Supply_Board
And BTW...repair the board. Don't go for the aftermarket board that is available. This board is much, much better.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from wierdeer:Can I send it to you? Lol
You sure can.
I've repaired a great many of those, and I'm happy to help.
See the contact link, below.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
North Adelaide
Why what looks wrong with it I just don't know what to look for. I'm new to this and this board already looked pretty burnt before I gave it to another hack job looked pretty similar as when I gave it to him but with new parts
Quoted from wierdeer:Can I send it to you? Lol
Send it to Chris Hibler. Nice guy and super fair to deal with.
That is a cool game and worth getting right. I have not seen one available out here. I play it a lot on Pinball Arcade.
From your pictures of the A2 power supply, no upgrades have been performed, the Q1 regulator is patched in place instead of repaired, the capacitors all look original and I'll bet that none of the header pins have had the solder re-flowed. The power supply has issues that need to be corrected before any other troubleshooting can be done. To try and do other troubleshooting right now would be a waste of time and have you (and people trying to help you) chasing your (their) tail.
To be blunt, unfortunately, from what I'm reading, the repairs and upgrades to the A2 power supply sound like they're a little above your skill level at the moment. You'll need to send it (and probably the other boards to be checked/repaired/upgraded) out to a qualified tech like Chris to get that game working without wasting time and money by trying to do it yourself.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from wierdeer:Why what looks wrong with it I just don't know what to look for.
That's a good decision, it'll give you time to learn a little more before you have to dig into your game again. There are many here that will be more than happy to help you learn more.
Steve
Quoted from wierdeer:Sending to Chris for sure
definatly sending out to chris obviosly you guys now that the ps is screwed up so i tested the plug on left side of ps with my multi meter set at 20vdc and didnt get a reading higher than 0.14 sound like somethin wrong? i just ordered the manual but dont yet know how much voltage to look for but i would asume it would have to be 5v or higher to have 5v come out of the board
Quoted from blownfuse:From your pictures of the A2 power supply, no upgrades have been performed, the Q1 regulator is patched in place instead of repaired, the capacitors all look original and I'll bet that none of the header pins have had the solder re-flowed. The power supply has issues that need to be corrected before any other troubleshooting can be done. To try and do other troubleshooting right now would be a waste of time and have you (and people trying to help you) chasing your (their) tail.
To be blunt, unfortunately, from what I'm reading, the repairs and upgrades to the A2 power supply sound like they're a little above your skill level at the moment. You'll need to send it (and probably the other boards too) out to a qualified tech like Chris to get that game working without wasting time and money by trying to do it yourself.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
yeah pretty new to pin ball restore thing funny thing is i had a job many moons ago soldering on circut boards but i always had someone handing me the rite flux and rite solder and iron cant remember jack about any of it. was a pretty short lived job but i thought i was pretty good at it.lol ( i was kidding myself)
so i tested the plug on left side of ps with my multi meter set at 20vdc and didnt get a reading higher than 0.14 sound like somethin wrong? i just ordered the manual but dont yet know how much voltage to look for but i would asume it would have to be 5v or higher to have 5v come out of the board
I checked its just fine .... Traced 120 Ac volts from wall to transformer to coin door switch back to back of cab fuse witch is also good ....I'm thinking that somewhere at the transformer or a connector some where is not letting substantial amount of power thru the harness to the ps...... Idk just a thought
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