(Topic ID: 317901)

System 7 - Laser Cue - Stuck in audit

By MaxAsh

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Ran into an interesting one today. Working on a Williams System 7 game. MPU and driver are clean. Power supply section is crazy hacked up. I'll have to get some pictures, but trust me when I say there's some weird stuff going on there.

When you power up the game, it doesn't boot. There's a flash on the LED of the MPU showing a zero for a second before it goes out. Here's the weird part: the flippers, slings, and pop bumpers all work as soon as you power the game up. It's not in attract mode and it's not booted. It's as if someone direct wired to the non-controlled solenoids so they could sort of play the game even though it's not booting. I've never seen that before. Anybody else?

#2 1 year ago

Yeah, it's sounding like an interconnect issue. sidenote: it's always an interconnect issue. see also, "Board shows "0" and immediately crashes". It's prevelant in just about every single system 7 repair post on the entire internet going back 20 years.

Sounds like it could actually be booting and then crashing immediately. The normal behavior of the MPU board is to actually flash the LED and then show nothing on the LED digit.

Also, your description of the power supply section needs clarification. Are we talking about the AC section in the lower cabinet or, the "power supply board" in the head? Can you test that voltages are present @ the power supply and MPU with a meter?

#3 1 year ago

Yeah, interconnect is one of the first things I look at after reviewing the basics. The only reason I stopped right away at the power supply was because of how crazy it looked. I'm talking about the power supply board itself. Hacks and solder blobs, looks like someone started rebuilding it, but didn't have axial capacitors, so they jumpered a radial. No big deal, a lot of us have done that. Some other stuff. I'll take pictures and add them to the thread as soon as I can.

I have not gotten inside the cabinet yet to look at the transformer or anything down in there. So far I've just had a glance inside the head.

So you're saying a bad interconnect can cause non-controlled solenoids to all work, including flippers, even when the game has only been powered on with no boot cycle? I didn't know that if that's true.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Yeah, interconnect is one of the first things I look at after reviewing the basics. The only reason I stopped right away at the power supply was because of how crazy it looked. I'm talking about the power supply board itself. Hacks and solder blobs, looks like someone started rebuilding it, but didn't have axle capacitors, so they jumpered a radial. Some other stuff. I'll take pictures and add them to the thread as soon as I can.
I have not gotten inside the cabinet yet to look at the transformer or anything down in there. So far I've just had a glance inside the head.
So you're saying a bad interconnect can cause non-controlled solenoids to all work, including flippers, even when the game has only been powered on with no boot cycle? I didn't know that if that's true.

Yes, that's the typical behavior of a sys6/7 game where the MPU crashes after it boots. The game will kind of go into "ghost test mode with no displays".

It's kind of a unique behavior with crashing sys 6/7/9/11 Williams games.

#5 1 year ago

That's really interesting, I've never run into that when working on repairing a game before.

I'll set the game up in my workshop and start doing some tests on the voltages and everything. I may have a spare system 7 power supply somewhere. No idea if it works, but it's got to be better than this mess.

#6 1 year ago

snyper2099 thanks for chiming in so far

Okay, so some updates. Set it all up and tested voltages on the Power Supply (with just incoming power hooked up). Everything came out good except for the -100V for the displays. It was Zero. A closer look so a cracked/broken disc capacitor up in that section.

I dug in my pile of boards and found another System 7 power supply. Hooked it up, and all the voltages tested good. I plugged everything back in, powered on the game. (Note: Yes, you'll see in the pics that the GI is not connected to the power supply I swapped in. It was not connectorized on my replacement board. Didn't need it for testing purposes right now)

The displays flashed all 0's quickly, then went to Game ID on the P1 display, 04 00 in the Credit Display. Pretty standard. I had the coin door open, and tried the ON/OFF trick, no luck. I seem to be stuck at the Game ID display. But hey, the good news is all the displays looked good, and the game is at least trying to boot more than I thought it was when they were dead.

Same issue though, flippers/pops/slings all work, but that's it.

Feels like it's time to move on to pulling the MPU/Driver and doing some inspections. One thing I noted, someone soldered a NVRAM module directly to the board, rather than socketing it. Ugh. I'll be looking at that first thing. I need to snag some more interconnect stuff, I used all my stock up recently on some System 3-6 games.

Based on some other similar threads (including some on this same game), guessing the RAM (or NVRAM possible fail install) is a likely culprit. Looking there first.

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#7 1 year ago

Pressing the diagnostic switch on the MPU results in an 8 on the LED display. If I am reading correctly that means IC19 CMOS RAM or memory protect circuitry fail.

#8 1 year ago

Don’t pull or diagnose anything…

Your game is booting and working as expected. It’s essentially booted to test mode. If you hold the FORWARD BUTTON down, it will eventually go to the end of settings and then go into attract mode and then you can add a credit and start a game, proving it has balls in it.

Your other power supply is probably booting the game, you were just missing a display voltage and could not see the digits.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Don’t pull or diagnose anything…
Your game is booting and working as expected. It’s essentially booted to test mode. There is no memory/battery/NVRAM to hold settings. If you hold the FORWARD BUTTON down, it will eventually go to the end of settings and then go into attract mode and then you can add a credit and start a game, proving it has balls in it. You need to add batteries (and maybe replace holder) or install NVRAM and It will boot fine every time.
Your other power supply is probably booting the game, you were just missing a display voltage and could not see the digits.
Please keep in mind that battery holder is likely bad on your board. They are always failed.

snyper2099 I actually did the above (holding the forward coin door button) and when it went through the settings and was supposed to go to attract, it clicked and went back to Game ID / Audit. I tried it with and without batteries, same results.

I removed the board to take a closer look. The NVRAM that was installed (and soldered direct instead of socketed) was done poorly. I just looked, and 3 solder pads were lifted from the board, under the NVRAM. Going to take a closer look now and do some testing, but I'm guessing I don't have good connection on several of those points.

And yep, the previous power supply was likely doing the same thing, just no displays due to -100V missing on it.

#10 1 year ago

Well, I fixed all the issues with that socket, verified it, installed new RAM. Still the same result. Stuck in audit mode.

Stepping through the audits back to reset doesn't fix it, the on/off with the door open doesn't fix it. Verified the coin door switch is registering open and closed as it should at the coin door end.

Interconnect? Memory protect issues on the board?

#11 1 year ago

I would probe the memory protect test point (TP3 I think) with the door open and then closed. Make sure it is low with the door open and hi otherwise.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I would probe the memory protect test point (TP3 I think) with the door open and then closed. Make sure it is low with the door open and hi otherwise.

TP3 shows 0.1 V when the coin door is open, and 3.8V when closed.

Pin 22 of the 5101 shows 4.84V

#13 1 year ago

Try this posted below on RGP BACK IN 2009. Same exact symptoms and a better explanation of what to do:

Another trick that should work if switching off/on quickly doesn't:
Reset to factory defaults and zero audits.
Open the coin door and the backbox. Coin door MUST be open for this to
work. Turn on game, you get 04 Audit mode.
Press the diag switch on the MPU board (lower pushbutton). The LEDs
should blink twice and displays go out.
Set all command switches to the RIGHT (off). Only set top switch #7
LEFT.
Press the top button called Master Command ENTER once briefly. Leds
blink once and go out.
Set switch #7 back to off. Power off the game.
This part is important. Close the coin door. Turn the game off and
back on TWICE.
The second time off/on you should get game over / attract mode.

If that procedure won't clear the game, you probably have another
fault with your MPU board or the memory protect circuit. As stated
before, the 5101 could be faulty.

Regards

-Richard

Keep in mind that a system 6/7 that has not booted and has corrupt info in ram will have extreme difficulty booting u less you perform a factory reset. Ignore the last 5101 comment because you have NVRAM installed.

#14 1 year ago

Interesting. I will give it a try in the morning, thanks

#15 1 year ago

I just remembered, this MPU doesn't have the DIP switches on it. I know some system sevens do, but this game does not. The position where they would be is blank as you can see from the pictures. So I don't think I can perform that procedure.

Sidenote: I realized if I pressed the diagnostic switch with the door closed, it changes from displaying "8" to "9" (which is the same error, except it's letting you know the coin door is closed). This verifies that The board knows whether the coin door is open or closed.

#16 1 year ago

I thought you said you socketed the NVRAM. If that is true, you could attempt to boot the game without the ram installed, then install it and try the double flip power trick. I know it does not make sense but it has worked for me in the past.

If that gets you nowhere, the next steps I would do are to verify game roms with a PROM reader, replace sockets, repair interconnect... or send the two boards off for troubleshooting when you reach your limit.

#17 1 year ago

I would try a new 5101 or NVRAM next. Also triple check you repaired the traces correctly and completely. Continuity check upstream and downstream components on the traces. Do you have a logic probe? If so, Probe the address, data, R/W and chip select pins to make sure they are pulsing.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I thought you said you socketed the NVRAM. If that is true, you could attempt to boot the game without the ram installed, then install it and try the double flip power trick. I know it does not make sense but it has worked for me in the past.
If that gets you nowhere, the next steps I would do are to verify game roms with a PROM reader, replace sockets, repair interconnect... or send the two boards off for troubleshooting when you reach your limit.

snyper2099 Correct, I socketed the position. I tried booting both with and without RAM installed, same result.

Schwaggs I went through all the traces, they appear to be correct. The ones that were damaged at the solder pad, and the ones that looked okay. I can always check again though. I have tried (3) 5101's I had on hand, including from a working game. I could order another NVRAM module, but I'm starting to think perhaps something failed elsewhere in the Memory Protect circuitry.

I could take a trip over to Allan Davidson I guess, I've done it before and he sorted things quickly with his test rig when I had a weird problem on a System 6.

#19 1 year ago

The memory protect circuit is pretty simple. Easy to trace out with a logic probe.

#20 1 year ago

Looks like I have a reason to swing by Allan's place anyway, as I'm picking up some stuff from another Pinsider not far from there as well. I think I'll just go ahead and haul the boards down to see if he can sort the issue quickly (he usually does). We exchanged some emails and I think that's the best bet. Plus, I always learn something hanging around his shop.

Either way, I'll report back what I find out. Going to go swap another driver board on there, just for kicks, since I have two known good ones.

#21 1 year ago

No change swapping in either of the extra working driver boards I have, so if it's the interconnect, it's going to be the headers on the MPU side I'm guessing. I'll check those out and reflow them perhaps.

Still leaning towards memory protect issues, but we'll see.

#22 1 year ago

Update: The issue is fixed, and the game is booting happily now!

Issue: It turned out to be the 5101 socket/traces. Despite everything seeming to be okay continuity-wise, it turned out that pin 12 had a broken trace that ran under the chip. It was hard to see, and even after having Allan re-socket the chip just in case, it was still missed. Some oscilloscope poking around found that the expected result on pin 11/12 looked off, which brought forth a third inspection, finally noting the almost invisibly broken trace. A nice clean repair to that trace solved the issue, finally.

Sometimes you need a second set of eyes, and a solid triple-check of some things to find the answer, even after you think you've checked it out.

Thanks to all for their help! Happened to get another System 7 board up and running while there, so at least I've got a backup for the next project.

Time to focus on making sure everything works, now that the board is booting up. Going to mark this thread Solved.

#23 1 year ago

Nice work, guys!!! I had a similar issue on an MPU I was trying to fix a while back, had me spinning my wheels for quite some time... Broken trace under a chip I had just recently replaced+socketed

#24 1 year ago

Thank you for posting the fix. There is always a chance it could help others in the future.

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