(Topic ID: 21137)

System 7 (BK) switches work in test, not game. *SOLVED*

By catboxer

11 years ago


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#1 11 years ago

Hello, I'm reposting this from RGP to see if I can get some more help on this problem. I have a black knight that refuses to recognize the balls in the upper ball lock. However, in test mode all switches work perfectly. In a game, I can manually load 3 balls into the trough and it will start multiball. If manually loading 1 or 2 balls, the game does not respond, and does not kick a ball into the shooter lane. All Solenoids are working properly in test.

Here is what I've tried:

-2 Different Driver boards
-2 Different MPUs (1 brand new Kohout Repro)
-Tested each switch individually = No closed switch causes another switch to register.
-Removing all 3 balls and raising all drops = No stuck switches
-Verified all switches are reporting their correct # in the matrix
-Verfied wire colors and diode direction going to switches.
-Triple checked main trough switches are functioning and wired correctly.
-Switch connectors to driverboard reseated, wiggled, etc. (work in test, there is continuity)

All switch tests were done with a real ball.

I'm out of ideas, please help!

Post edited by catboxer : It Fricken Works!

#2 11 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Hello, I'm reposting this from RGP to see if I can get some more help on this problem. I have a black knight that refuses to recognize the balls in the upper ball lock. However, in test mode all switches work perfectly. In a game, I can manually load 3 balls into the trough and it will start multiball. If manually loading 1 or 2 balls, the game does not respond, and does not kick a ball into the shooter lane. All Solenoids are working properly in test.
Here is what I've tried:
-2 Different Driver boards
-2 Different MPUs (1 brand new Kohout Repro)
-Tested each switch individually = No closed switch causes another switch to register.
-Removing all 3 balls and raising all drops = No stuck switches
-Verified all switches are reporting their correct # in the matrix
-Verfied wire colors and diode direction going to switches.
-Triple checked main trough switches are functioning and wired correctly.
-Switch connectors to driverboard reseated, wiggled, etc. (work in test, there is continuity)
All switch tests were done with a real ball.
I'm out of ideas, please help!

Did you use the ROMs from the original CPU in the Kohout or different ROMs?

viperrwk

#3 11 years ago

New ROMs came with the board. The originals were definitely suspect. So rather than pay 30-40 bucks for just ROMs, I bought a new board to take it out of the equation.

#4 11 years ago

Assuming you've tried both driver boards on the new CPU and have tested the switch matrix with the harness disconnected, and changed the IDC connectors for the switch matrix, eliminating anything wrong in the backbox, I'd look for a problem in the switch wiring on the playfield. Many times people rewire something the wrong way and all h***breaks loose - all with one improper connection.

Also, assume the ROMs are all correct - blue flipper and all. If you can, reburn a set and see what happens. This does seem a sticky problem.

viperrwk

#5 11 years ago

Both driver boards switch matrix test out OK when tested at the board. Pins 1-46 respond.

It seems like its an issue with the column wiring but it only affects switches 41-43. 44-46 work fine in game.

At one point those upper trough switches were definitely changed out from leaf to microswitches. I found the wiring diagram in the coin box. Using that wiring diagram it looks correct. I tested the diodes on all switches in the column and they are OK too.

I found that the ground strap was missing from the wingnut in the backbox. That gave me some momentary hope, but connecting it didn't help the switch issue.

#6 11 years ago

You said when you loaded two balls it didn't recognize them but it did if you loaded three. What if you switched the switches around? Does it behave the same way? I wouldn't trust that just because a switch works in test it would work the same in game.

viperrwk

#7 11 years ago

FIXED IT!!!

The switch matrix diagram in the BK Manual is INCORRECT! It lists the primary trough switches left to right as 17,18,19. In fact they are 19,18,17.

Thanks for everyones help trying to resolve this. The ONLY way I figured it out was by rechecking the microswitch installation sheet. This showed me switches 17 and 19's wire colors were flipped. This went against what the manual said, but it works!

#8 11 years ago

Cool! You should post this over on RGP as well.

viperrwk

#9 11 years ago

Nice job fixing a very obscure problem!
Way to go Sherlock

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

The switch matrix diagram in the BK Manual is INCORRECT! It lists the primary trough switches left to right as 17,18,19. In fact they are 19,18,17.

Thanks for posting this.

i don't have this machine, but people new to pinball might think that the manuals are absolutely correct.

This is just not the case (for many older games); and it's good that this be pointed out.

Robert

#11 11 years ago

Sorry I didn't see this post earlier.....That's a fairly known problem with the BK manual...It's been discussed on RGP numerous times. EG:

http://rgparchive-removed.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=364051

#12 11 years ago

Oh man, where were you before I brought that new MPU? Haha!

The thing is, this one did start a game, that guy had the luck of one of the 3 main trough switches being broken. I suspected the upper trough because it would not do anything once you locked a ball up there.

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Sorry I didn't see this post earlier.....That's a fairly known problem with the BK manual...It's been discussed on RGP numerous times. EG:
http://rgparchive-removed.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=364051

Searches aren't always going to turn up answers like this because the last thing you're going to assume is that the manual is wrong. Even people like Korn in his thread over there and Rob Anthony in this thread - http://rgparchive-removed.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=393858&highlight=black+knight+trough+switch&page=2 - didn't mention this at all. (BTW I respect both those guys immensely and this is not a slight to them in any way - they both know more than I could ever hope to but no one can know or remember everything.)

The reality is that there should be a place to document known manual errata on IPDB so people like catboxer don't go crazy. Would make all of our lives easier.

viperrwk

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

The reality is that there should be a place to document known manual errata on IPDB so people like catboxer don't go crazy. Would make all of our lives easier.
viperrwk

Agreed....Since helping people out on Pinside the past year, i've identified 3 gross errors in various Bally/WMS manuals that had us scratching our heads. Actually, EVERY manual for 80's era Bally's PSU's are wrong on the High Voltage Diode/Bridge orientation. Based on the manual and the actual configuration on the board, two of the diodes are swapped.

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

EVERY manual for 80's era Bally's PSU's are wrong on the High Voltage Diode/Bridge orientation.

Yes, and it's not just Bally, Williams in their hayday, it seems like they just copied parts of the previous manual (unchanged from previous game) and stuck it into the next manual. So if there was an error there it's in the next one too.

So the errors are everywhere.

Robert

7 years later
#16 4 years ago

Ive got the same issue, the balls stay locked in the top lock at times and do not get ejected, however all switch tests come up as working. What exactly was the fix? to swap the switch wires from 17, 18 and 19?

thanks in advance

2 weeks later
#17 4 years ago
Quoted from burninatorus:

Ive got the same issue, the balls stay locked in the top lock at times and do not get ejected, however all switch tests come up as working. What exactly was the fix? to swap the switch wires from 17, 18 and 19?
thanks in advance

I re-read the above posts and it looks like you just need to switch the non-common wires for 17 and 19, leave 18 alone. So, switch that one wire on both switches. <------>

Then in switch test, from left to right, confirm in switch test it registers as 19-18-17.

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