(Topic ID: 256803)

System 3 sound board will not boot (MA-1629)

By arolden

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by arolden
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

Hi everyone

Trying to diagnose issues with a System 3 sound board. I got this board with a bunch of spare boards in totally unknown condition. I placed it into my Tee'd Off and it did not boot. The main LED was locked on and pressing reset did nothing.

So, I connected the board to my test bench with Marco's test ROMs installed. With the test LED connected to pin 17 of T3, when power is turned on, the test LED locks on and the main LED stays off. Pressing reset makes the test LED dim momentarily before it locks on again. The main LED doesn't change.

With the test LED connected to pin 17 of N1, when power is turned on, the test LED starts to flash and the main LED stays off. This looks to me like the board is waiting for input/reset. When I press reset, the test LED dims and stays that way. No change to the main LED.

So it seems to me that when hooked into N1, the test ROMs attempt to boot the board, while they do nothing when hooked up to T3. I have already replaced H2 and H3. I have also tested A3, which appears to be good. It seems to me that the 6502 at T3 is the most likely suspect. If I need to replace this, can I replace it with a faster processor or do I need to stick with 2 Mhz? Faster processors are more readily available, and cheaper.

What do you guys think? Thanks in advance for any advice.

#2 4 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

can I replace it with a faster processor

Yes. You can. A "faster" processor is only capable of faster speeds if the clock input drives it to those speeds.
I would diode test both RAM chips against a known working board for comparison.
RAM failures seem to be more common than anything else on that board.
Be careful...the traces and through holes are very delicate.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#3 4 years ago

+1 on changing the RAM

#4 4 years ago

I have already replaced both RAM chips at H2 and H3.

#5 4 years ago

If the 6 pin power supply power connector ever got mixed up while that board was connected, there are possibly 2 additional chips that can fail:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_3#Mixed-Up_6-pin_Power_Supply_.26_Driver_Board_Connectors

74HCT374 (A3), 74HC08 (G5)

Since those are 7400 series chips, you can test those in a tester (if you have one, which I highly recommend) when you remove them to see if they are actually bad or not before placing an order for replacements.

#6 4 years ago

I don't have a tester but I tested A3 and G5 with my meter in diode test. No issues - results are the same as on my working board.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

I don't have a tester but I tested A3 and G5 with my meter in diode test. No issues - results are the same as on my working board.

A multimeter can pick up on dead shorts, but has trouble with logic issues.

Components and chips can also fail when under load, which a multimeter wouldn't always pick up on.

#8 4 years ago

Good point. I'll try and figure out how to use my logic probe and see if that gets me anywhere.

#9 4 years ago

OK, I did some investigation with my logic probe and found a couple of things. Can someone help me interpret these results?

A3 gives the same readings as my working board. However I get different readings for G5 pins 11-13 (bottom left of schematic). These are a gate that output to G4 and then to the 6502 at T3. I get an unusual reading with my probe at pin 6 on T3 (where G5 outputs to) as well as odd readings at pin 20 (A11). Plus the output voltages at T3 are almost 0 whereas these were 2 volts on my working board.

So from this I am beginning to suspect G5 is bad. Is that a reasonable conclusion?

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#10 4 years ago

Between the odd readings and it being a known failure point, if it were me, I would remove it, test it to verify, and replace it.

#11 4 years ago

OK, I replaced it and verified all traces. Still no improvement.

#12 4 years ago

I am starting to wonder if G3 is involved here. G3 sits between A3 and G5. It gives me different probe results to the working board, too.

G3 is an 74LS377 but I don't have any in stock. Could I substitute a 74LS374?

#13 4 years ago

Another interesting note: if I touch the logic probe to pin 13 of G3, the LED turns off and the board is dead until I press reset. Not sure what the significance of that is. Pin 13 is an input.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

G3 is an 74LS377 but I don't have any in stock. Could I substitute a 74LS374

Doesn't look like it. The datasheets are completely different.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Doesn't look like it. The datasheets are completely different.

I'll order another then. I think the only other potential culprit is the 6502 processor. In particular the lower voltages at pin 37 and 39 make me think it's got issues. Is there a way to test these processors?

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Is there a way to test these processors?

You can do some limited testing with a logic probe, but currently, the only way to fully test a CPU chip is to put it in a known working board.

However, it's usually pretty rare that a CPU chip goes bad. Out of all the boards I've worked on, I've only seen a CPU failure a couple of times. It's much more likely to see a 7400 series chip failure since they are closer to where a malfunction/short actually happens in the logic & electrical chain.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

You can do some limited testing with a logic probe, but currently, the only way to fully test a CPU chip is to put it in a known working board.
However, it's usually pretty rare that a CPU chip goes bad. Out of all the boards I've worked on, I've only seen a CPU failure a couple of times. It's much more likely to see a 7400 series chip failure since they are closer to where a malfunction/short actually happens in the logic & electrical chain.

Alright, I've ordered another LS377. It'll take a while to arrive.

At this point I feel like I'm basically shotgunning the board which is what I wanted to avoid in the first place. Are there any other targeted tests I can do? Maybe the behaviour of the test ROM is a clue? MarAlb
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#18 4 years ago

Don't feel bad. These Gottlieb sound boards are tough to diagnose since they have two processors that talk back and forth. And, the boards are more difficult to physically work on because the parts seem to be jammed into the through holes and bent over on the solder side sometimes.

I would place two identical boards side by side and then methodically diode test every part, comparing to the known good board. It's a tedious method, but it works most of the time.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

2 months later
#19 4 years ago

I finally had some time today to do some more work on this board. I replaced the LS377 at G3. No improvement.

Will take another look at the schematics and figure out where to go from there. I'll get this bastard eventually.

#20 4 years ago

Did some more research into this today. I have replaced H2, H3, G3, A3 and G5. According to the theory of operation in the manual, A3 and B2 are the input latches. I have replaced A3 so this is working. A4 is then clocked which causes the IRQ input of each processor to go low, until A4 is cleared. This seems to work as the IRQ input goes high, so I think A4 is working as it should. However, I get different logic at G4 compared to the working board. Inputs and outputs high or low when they should be the opposite. G4 seems to be a hex inverter associated with both processors. I will replace it and see if there is any change.

I have no idea whether anyone else is reading this thread or if I am talking to myself, but hopefully when I get this board fixed someone will be able to follow my logic train...

#21 4 years ago

I’m reading and cheering you on brother.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#22 4 years ago

OK, so G4 was replaced but still getting a locked on LED. No progress.

At this stage I am just going to replace A4, then the processor at T3. Just need to wait for some more sockets to arrive.

#23 4 years ago

Another update. I have replaced A4, and after that made no difference, I replaced the processor at T3. Still no change. LED stays locked on.

I have now replaced basically every part of the YROM circuit. Now I can either start replacing parts on the DROM side of the board, or attack the CPU timer circuitry. I will have another go with my logic probe and compare to my working board and see if any other abnormalities come to light.
20200301_181951000_iOS (resized).jpg20200301_181951000_iOS (resized).jpg

#24 4 years ago

Damn. Keep pluggin’ away.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#25 4 years ago

Well, on the upside, at least you're half way through testing all the chips

#26 4 years ago

Having some issues finding 6502 CPUs in case I need to replace the other processor. Can I use a 65C02P4? Or a W65C02S8P?

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Having some issues finding 6502 CPUs in case I need to replace the other processor. Can I use a 65C02P4? Or a W65C02S8P?

Yes. Those will work.
Todd at BigDaddyEnterprises has them for sale.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

5 months later
#28 3 years ago

Made progress?

#29 3 years ago

Unfortunately, nothing new to report. I moved house recently, so I've had a lot of other things on my mind! My plan was to replace the other processor and see if that made a difference. No sure yet when I'll have time to do it, but thanks for checking in!

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