(Topic ID: 192698)

System 3 replacement boards

By bronco-jon

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by ForceFlow
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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    #2 2 years ago

    Just fixed a Hot Tip with almost the exact same problem. Because of the location of the batteries it wasn't actually that bad to fix. That left chip and the two roms can be replaced with a single combo rom in the far-right rom socket (not populated on your board). Replace the interconnect and ROM+CMOS ram socket for good measure and I bet it'll boot right up. There aren't many good replacement boards for early williams...

    #6 2 years ago
    Quoted from bronco-jon:

    After cleaning it up some with just water and a small brissel brush (I need to go buy some vinegar) it actually doesn't look too bad. I cut what was left of the battery holder off and just left the prongs. I don't see any broken or corroded through tracers.
    do you think there is a chance of it being ok? I pulled the first three chips out and cleaned the sockets up best I could with what I have. is there anything else that works good on cleaning up the board? and do you know of a link you can send me that covers this repair you are talking about? thanks

    Vid's system 3-7 guide should give you a good overview: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

    I just pulled those three chips (IC 21,22,25) off completely, and replaced the sockets for 17, 19, + 20. Get a new rom for IC 14. If the corrosion reached the big connector along the bottom, replace it. Sand the corroded area till you've got nice shiny copper anywhere you had corrosion, clean it off with vinegar, water, and alcohol. Unlike other manufacturers (gottlieb, bally), the battery isn't near the reset area on williams boards, so the battery can do a lot less damage and they're more salvagable

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from bronco-jon:

    Thank you very much. the only problem is I don't see a IC14 on my board or on the schematic.

    IC14 is the unpopulated rom socket on the right of the other ones. You can see the empty pads in your picture.

    Quoted from ForceFlow:Vinegar isn't acidic enough to neutralize.

    Interesting! I've always been told to use apple cider or white vinegar, *after* sanding. Then again by the time I'm done sanding I don't think there's much left... A pain though

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