(Topic ID: 192698)

System 3 replacement boards


By bronco-jon

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by ForceFlow
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 2 years ago

    What is everyone using when your system 3 board(s) has seen it's better days?
    I just picked up a Williams SS Hot Tip that has been sitting for many years with the batteries left on the board.....yes, they leaked and made a mess on the board. The machine is in too good of shape not to fix.

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    #2 2 years ago

    Just fixed a Hot Tip with almost the exact same problem. Because of the location of the batteries it wasn't actually that bad to fix. That left chip and the two roms can be replaced with a single combo rom in the far-right rom socket (not populated on your board). Replace the interconnect and ROM+CMOS ram socket for good measure and I bet it'll boot right up. There aren't many good replacement boards for early williams...

    #3 2 years ago

    If it becomes too difficult to fix though, Rottendog makes a replacement CPU/Driver board combo.

    Alternatively, you can always look at classifieds here, or throw up a wanted ad. If I recall correctly, the System 3-6 boardset are all backwards compatible (i.e. If you can find a working System 6 board, it'll work fine in a System 3 game, provided you have the right Flipper ROMs installed), and jumper the boards properly.

    #4 2 years ago

    You could always find a nicer original board to repair, or find a refurbished one that someone has already repaired.

    Also try a WTB ad in the marketplace if you can't find something listed for sale.

    Rottendog has a combo board for the MPU & driver board, but it's a little on the pricey side.

    #5 2 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Just fixed a Hot Tip with almost the exact same problem. Because of the location of the batteries it wasn't actually that bad to fix. That left chip and the two roms can be replaced with a single combo rom in the far-right rom socket (not populated on your board). Replace the interconnect and ROM+CMOS ram socket for good measure and I bet it'll boot right up. There aren't many good replacement boards for early williams...

    After cleaning it up some with just water and a small brissel brush (I need to go buy some vinegar) it actually doesn't look too bad. I cut what was left of the battery holder off and just left the prongs. I don't see any broken or corroded through tracers.
    do you think there is a chance of it being ok? I pulled the first three chips out and cleaned the sockets up best I could with what I have. is there anything else that works good on cleaning up the board? and do you know of a link you can send me that covers this repair you are talking about? thanks

    #6 2 years ago
    Quoted from bronco-jon:

    After cleaning it up some with just water and a small brissel brush (I need to go buy some vinegar) it actually doesn't look too bad. I cut what was left of the battery holder off and just left the prongs. I don't see any broken or corroded through tracers.
    do you think there is a chance of it being ok? I pulled the first three chips out and cleaned the sockets up best I could with what I have. is there anything else that works good on cleaning up the board? and do you know of a link you can send me that covers this repair you are talking about? thanks

    Vid's system 3-7 guide should give you a good overview: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

    I just pulled those three chips (IC 21,22,25) off completely, and replaced the sockets for 17, 19, + 20. Get a new rom for IC 14. If the corrosion reached the big connector along the bottom, replace it. Sand the corroded area till you've got nice shiny copper anywhere you had corrosion, clean it off with vinegar, water, and alcohol. Unlike other manufacturers (gottlieb, bally), the battery isn't near the reset area on williams boards, so the battery can do a lot less damage and they're more salvagable

    #7 2 years ago

    Thank you very much. the only problem is I don't see a IC14 on my board or on the schematic.

    #8 2 years ago

    You need to neutralize the alkaline from the battery leakage, or it will continue to eat away at the copper.

    Vinegar isn't acidic enough to neutralize. Take a look here:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid

    Then sand down to the copper where the batter damage was, add your new components, and seal exposed copper with clear nail polish.

    #9 2 years ago

    Thanks, great thread! If I'm lucky I won't have to sent it off to get fixed. I don't have enough experience to do it myself.
    ...looks like those chips will clean up ok. do you think they will be alright? if not, where can I get some?

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from bronco-jon:

    Thank you very much. the only problem is I don't see a IC14 on my board or on the schematic.

    IC14 is the unpopulated rom socket on the right of the other ones. You can see the empty pads in your picture.

    Quoted from ForceFlow:Vinegar isn't acidic enough to neutralize.

    Interesting! I've always been told to use apple cider or white vinegar, *after* sanding. Then again by the time I'm done sanding I don't think there's much left... A pain though

    #11 2 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Interesting! I've always been told to use apple cider or white vinegar, *after* sanding. Then again by the time I'm done sanding I don't think there's much left... A pain though

    With zep, it attacks the alkaline chemically, so I actually end up doing a bit less sanding since most of the alkaline is removed before getting to that point.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from bronco-jon:

    Thanks, great thread! If I'm lucky I won't have to sent it off to get fixed. I don't have enough experience to do it myself.
    ...looks like those chips will clean up ok. do you think they will be alright? if not, where can I get some?

    Replace any parts that are hit with battery leakage with new parts. That leakage can spread like a virus and continue to corrode and damage the board if any of it is left behind.

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