(Topic ID: 145594)

System 11B volume cutting in and out

By In_Violation

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by xTheBlackKnightx
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

#1 6 years ago

Hi There,
I have a Swords Of Fury that the volume will get loud then quiet. It will do this randomly during a entire game while playing.
What should I check or replace?

#2 6 years ago

it appears to do this when the volume is turned all the way down.

#3 6 years ago

I'd try disassembling the potentiometer and cleaning it, or just outright replace it.

[edit]: According to another post, it looks like this might be the part:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_255426_-1

Just double-check the specs against your manual. I'm not sure if it's for all System 11's or not.

#4 6 years ago

Use a good contact cleaner like DeOXIT. Depending on the design you can usually get the cleaner into the internals w/o disassembling it. If you can't I'd just replace it.

#5 6 years ago

Spray some volume control cleaner into the cleanout hole of the pot. Then work the pot shaft back and forth a few times. Should be as good as new then.

#6 6 years ago

Just curious if this one would work?
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-10k-ohm-audio-taper-potentiometer?variant=5717292165

Jameco one is 1/4 watt
Radio Shack is 1/2 watt.

Radio Shack 200 yards away has a few in stock. So just curious.

#7 6 years ago

Increasing the Wattage rating is hardly ever a problem. It should work fine if that's the only difference.

#8 6 years ago

Most of the time the potentiometer windings in machines of this age (Williams System 11 or many other manufacturers) have not been adjusted or replaced for ages resulting in sound problems and this is one of the most common problems with these machines.
Earlier solid state machines normally control sound levels from a pot on the sound board itself.
Pot problems are more common so that the sound board capacitors, EPROMS, or other components themselves.
Other common problems including fading sound, large increases in volume at unexpected times, sound being cut out all together, squeeling (sometimes caused by the audio board too), static and or hiss (normally caused by the caps), and so on.
To clean the pots, I RECOMMEND you turn the machine OFF, to prevent damaging the speakers if you are in test mode.
If the speakers are old, large burst of sound frequency waves can cause them to start "crackling".
Check the soldering connections to the pot before adjustments. Cold solder joints will invalidate the test or cleaning of the pot.
Check all speaker connections both in the cabinet and in the speaker panel.
One loose connection can and will cause the sound to completely cut out in some cases.
Check for leads and case of the pot touching ANYTHING as this volume control is very close to other cabinet wiring and mechanisms such as the tilt bob.
This can cause shorts and ground faults.
Turn the potentiometer all the way to to left until it stops, then turn it all the way to the right.
Do this SLOWLY but FIRMLY several times, but be careful you can damage the pot with rapid fast turns.
Turn on the machine.
Adjust the volume.
If you getting NO VOLUME at all especially if doing "test turns" while adjusting, the simplest cause is the pot itself.
It is cheap and easily replaceable.
Do so before develing into audio board problems.
NOTE: There is a test button on many audio boards to make your life easier. Many people do not know that!
FINAL NOTE: Most EARLIER MODEL pinball machines (including System 11, pre-WPC, Whitestar, and WPC machines) do have not controls to make adjustments for mechanical, effects, music or calls independently. The only way to do this is to modify circuit boards and code programming, which is WAY beyond the average collector, but can be done surprisingly with a lot of work. The latest model of Stern machines DO.

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