Take some very good pics of the flipper area that is causing this. Someone here will see whats wrong from them.

On pic #5 is there a burned off looking wire on the switch stack on that one flipper mech? Even enlarged, I cannot tell for sure, just something looks a bit crusty there.

Are any of the capacitor wire touching metal. Those should be insulated with shrink tubing

Can you take some with the P/F up against the backbox with out any angle, and not so much telephoto.

On the left flipper, does the switch have a diode? The diode is clear to see on the right flipper but not the left. Also on the left flipper, double check that none of the tags that you solder to on the switches are touching each other, one or two look a bit bent over..

Wrong place to post this. Moderator?

Moved to early SS.

Didn't anyone else besides me notice that these flipper coils are mounted backwards?

Older style coils mounted this direction. The were rotated to prevent the lugs from breaking.

Wrong....modern Williams' flipper coils were never mounted like they are in this game. This configuration will BREAK the lugs not protect them. Check the game's manual....

I'll clarify. Older style flippers were mounted this way. Reading vids flipper rebuilding instructions advises to reverse them to prevent the lugs from breaking. Additional wire is sometimes needed if the leads are too short from the factory installation. My space shuttle and pinbot were installed this way. In addition the coil stop is notched for the coil peg. So clearly they intended this orientation at one time.

You are correct. I apologize.

I completely overlooked the conical return springs. The front coil stop has no notch so you can't turn the coil around anyway. The front coil stop that is listed in the manual (01-7695) has the notch for the coil and the conical return spring seat. I wonder if this is when they were starting to change the orientation at the factory.

In line with the original post the right flipper coil has a broken index peg. Maybe the coil is bouncing around and touching something when you are playing the game.

Hmmm....I don't think the flashers are supposed to come on at all when you hit the flippers. I would suggest running through the coil test in diagnostics. For peace of mind it would be nice to know if the flashers and coils are all coming on when they are actually supposed to.

^^^^^^
This. Flashers aren't supposed to light up when just hitting the flippers on Cyclone. There is a lot of flasher activity in the game but the flippers alone aren't supposed to light the flashers.

My understanding is that you did a playfield swap here? I suspect you have something wired incorrectly. And there is no simple way to diagnose how you might have crossed a wire, especially if you're having GI problems as well.

viperrwk

Edit: Do what NoTrashCouger and Vyper say first

These flippers looks really clean. Did you recently rebuild them? If so I would redo them and flip the coils like eeriepinball recommends. If the index peg is in the way just cut it off. Flipping it around will take the index peg out of play by keeping the lugs away from the coil stop. I would also insulate the capacitor legs to make sure they aren't grounding.

2 other things to check:
1. Make sure the eos switch is not grounded to the screws that hole the mounting tab to the plate. I have seen this happen when the side of the eos was resting on the screw heads.

2. Make sure the screws that hold the switches to the tab have not pierced the coil wrapper.

If the flashers are LED, the will flash when hitting the flippers. I have the same problem on my Earthshaker and have yet to find a solution other than leaving some of the incandescent bulbs in place or putting resistors across the flasher circuit where the LED flashers are located (not recommended).

As for the GI fuse, my advice would be to check and make sure that nothing is grounding out the GI sockets when the flipper is fired. One of those GI bulbs looks pretty close to the flipper mech.

You have been focusing on the flipper mechanism area mostly, but do realize that the GI is not directly related to any of the switches or wiring at the flippers. There is the possibility that something in the moving mechanisms are coming into contact with your GI circuit physically, perhaps a lamp socket or tab. Also, don't rule out something "geographically" away from the flippers themselves. Check around your cabinet switches as well. Bang on the table a little and make sure it isn't vibration related (for example, hitting the flippers causing a vibration that subsequently makes something contact the GI that shouldn't.

You've got four 5A fuses for the GI circuits, are all of these blowing? Or just some of them?

You need to check your GI relay and the ferris wheel relay as they go over the copper gi wires. Could the traces be touching the bare copper? Also Gi relay wire is not fully seated. I didn't know that you did a P/F swap, you will need to triple check some of the wiring.

It is the yel/wht string going under the relays.

Are flashlamps that are comming on with the flippers 3c 4c 6c 7c ? If so its because they are LEDs. If you change back to #89 bulbs this will stop. You can remove some diodes on the aux power supply and add diodes to the coils if you want to run LEDs.

Nice job on the playfield. Underside looks great for a sys 11.

Do you know more about which diodes need to be bypassed to stop the flippers from back-feeding voltage to the LED flashers?

I have been trying to look for a solution to this issue for a while now.

Thanks,
--Scott

The diodes were move from the coils to the aux power driver board. That way when you change a coil it didn't matter which wire went where. To run LEDS you need to remove these doides (D3 D4 D6 D7) from the aux power driver board and reinstall them on solenoid 3 4 6 7 in the correct way. Look in the manual to find which is the power wire and install diode band facing toward the power wire. This is the same on all 11b and 11c games.

I had been meaning to fix this on my two sys 11, just did it.. works great!