(Topic ID: 97921)

System 11 power supply on a Grand Lizard

By RDSKINSFAN

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by OpFlash
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 9 years ago

I have replaced the most of the caps and I just replaced R4 AND R1 resistors. Everything on the playfield is lite but no scoring display on all 4 displays. The display came on for a "few" 2-3 seconds at best and not the entire display. I tested the pins again after that, they are as follows...

Orange= Negative 100v is at .8
Brown= +100v is at 98.6
Gray= +5 is at 4.98

It must have a lot to do with the orange coming in at .8, but where do I go from here?

I assume the resistors are correct the spec are the same but the center color is different. Orginal (gold,red, white, orange). The new ones were (gold,black,white, orange) does that make a difference?

Also after I replaced the parts above it will not start a game when I push start. If I start the test mode all sounds and light work? What could have happened?

#2 9 years ago

Did you put one of the caps in backwards on the HV part of the supply?

#3 9 years ago

Orange, white, red, gold = 3.9K ohms, 5%.
Orange, white, black, gold = 39 ohms, 5%.

Correct resistor for that location would be 39K ohms (Orange, white, orange, gold) ...
Since -100V supply is gone, I assume the resistor in question is R4. If yours really is 39 ohms than the zener diode at ZR3 will be fried. Verify the color codes on R1 and R4.

#4 9 years ago

Vid, No the caps seem to be in there correctly, I double checked it before I solder them in. I heard if they were in there backward they would explode? Is that correct information?

GPE, The new ones were (orange white, black,gold, ). All of the specs were the same. But not to sound dumb...even though the ohms and resistance are the same the board will not work correctly if the the new center ring is "black" not "white"? And not to ask a dumber question, would any of this occur if R1 and R4 were in there backwards? I would guess it would mine are in there (if you are looking at the board itself) from left to right are, GOLD, BLACK, WHITE, ORANGE. It is my fault for not writing the colors down before removing the old ones.

#5 9 years ago

Electrolytic Caps installed backwards can make a nice 'boom' .. or possibly just fizzle away nice and quietly, just keep your face away until you make sure.

Resistors can't be installed backwards so orientation won't matter.

But if the resistors truly are Orange, white, black and gold (gold is tolerance, always last character when reading stripes) then the part is definitely a 39 ohm resistor and cannot possibly work and will take out the Zener diodes (and maybe more).

Orange = 3 (first digit)
White = 9 (second digit)
Black = 0 (exponent of multiplier) --> 10**0 = 1 ... so 39 x 1 = 39 ohms
Gold = tolerance of 5% (or silver for tolerance of 10%)... either would work.

The ones you need must be 39000 (39K) ohms with color coding of Orange, White, Orange, Gold (or occasionally silver).

#6 9 years ago

Thank you, I will have to order new ones and get back in a week to see if they help.

#7 9 years ago

Ok the scoring displays came back on, THANK YOU!~ however player 3 and 4 look ok,1 and 2 are on but I can not read the text running across them. Secondly the game will not start a game? All lights are on and working correctly but when I push the start button...Nothing? What now?

3 weeks later
#8 9 years ago

when you push the start button does the game try to eject any balls out? or does nothing happen. was the game starting before you replaced all the parts on the board?

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