Ok guys you are steering him off course. You need to think simple first. First before anything else, check the relay board for cracked solder joints. Most likely problem is solder joints on this board, usually the ones on the relay points that connect to the board. If they look cracked then heat up you solder iron and get them to re-melt or reflow again. I have used this on at least 2 System 11 machines to fix relay issues.

Yep, there is your problem I bet, those are bad.

Oh geez, i got the other guys pic confused with original poster.

Yours looks pretty good. So now what to do is look if you have the same kind of board mounted on the head for GI up there. (on the board with all the lights) I know some sys 11 do. Then switch the boards around and see if the GI on the playfield works now. This will tell you if it is the relay board real quick.

So DR Dude doesn't have another relay on the back of the board like seen here on Elvira?

gi relay (resized).jpg

I would still do some continuity checks first at the relay board just to be sure you are not missing something easy. I am guessing you checked voltage by putting your probe on the exposed wire at the connector and not the pin on the board itself. If that is true, with the machine off, do continuity check from the wire on the connector to the other side of board at the connector pin. Even better would farther down the trace to the relay mount hole. This is to make sure plug can actually sending power to board all the way to the relay. I am talking the wires for the solenoid portion. Not high power wires for the lights. (I need to download the manual to get wire colors)

(about your latest post) Sorry to hear anther problem now. This is why I steer novices away from doing tests on live running games until the last thing. Not saying you did something but better safe than sorry and many tests can be done to rule things out without ever even turning the machine on with a multimeter in continuity mode.

You said wiring was a mess on this machine so you need to do basic troubleshooting first before jumping stuff with machine on.

Always check wiring from head to the part that doesn't work first. (with machine off) Multi-meter once again in Continuity mode unplug the connector for what you are having problems with either at the interconnect board or even better all the way to the CPU board. Put probe on wire and then other probe on the wire at the part on the playfield and see if you get beep or buzz. Then you know if wiring up to that point is good. You can do this for anything that is not working, lamps, coils, and switches. Check both colors of wires for each feature not working. Super easy and super safe. If you don't get buzz you move your probes closer to the other probe by finding another exposed wire point and checking again. Keep doing this until you get buzz. Now you know from the buzz point to the previous test point you have an issue in the wiring. As an example I had one machine that the problem was the resistor on the interconnect board. So I only got buzz once I put my probes from CPU connector to the input of the interconnect board from the CPU. So I knew the interconnect board had the issue. I do this step first for everything because normally your problems are just disconnects in wires because of failed solder joints are connectors that are bad.

I am getting out of this at this point, but do these steps and you will easily troubleshoot basic wiring issues on your machine. Most times that is your problem because of vibrations you get at the playfield.

This way of testing is also a good habit to get into if you ever want to fix up an old EM machine. There is no transistor to jump so continuity checks are your go to testing for just about everything.