It sounds like that flipper is not making contact with the EOS switch
Have you tried adjusting the EOS switch?Is the EOS switch installed
in the correct position?

Check the wiring on the coil lugs and make sure they are
correct

Check the EOS switch for power and ground and make sure it's working.

Does the EOS switch work in the Switch test?

It sounds like your EOS is fine, but your hold winding on the coil could be broken. Have you checked the hold winding for continuity/resistance?

Have you cleaned the cabinet switch? Sometimes it can be a problem if you aren't getting good contact and voltage to the coil.

It doesn't matter which way the capacitor is wired, it is just there to reduce the spark when the EOS switch opens and closes.

I dont know if this will help from Pinrepair
Flipper Wire Colors.
From game to game, Williams often used a consistent set of wire colors for flipper wiring (unfortunately, this is not always the case, as seen in the picture above). In the picture below, the flipper coil lugs are labeled "lug1" to "lug3". Here are the wire color break down for most games:

Lug 1 (outside banded diode lug, two winding wires, 50 volts):
o Lower Left flipper: Grey/Yellow
o Lower Right flipper: Blue/Yellow
o Upper Left flipper: Grey/Yellow
o Uppper Right flipper: Blue/Yellow

Lug 3 (outside non-banded diode lug, one winding wire):
o Lower Left flipper: Orange/Blue
o Lower Right flipper: Orange/Green
o Upper Left flipper: Orange/Grey
o Uppper Right flipper: Orange/Purple

Lug 2 (middle lug):
o Lower Left flipper: Blue/Grey
o Lower Right flipper: Blue/Purple
o Upper Left flipper: Black/Blue
o Uppper Right flipper: Black/Yellow

Is possible that its probably a bad coil?Did you check the coil for any broken wires.
Wires going from the coil to the lugs.They break off sometimes.
I think BR has a BK

There are some pics here http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=311

dont really know how to help ya.
I just recently fixed a Whirlwind problem we had.. the right side flippers were just weak, no problems otherwise. I never knew that the switches right inside the flipper buttons needed to be FILED.. those are apparenly tungsten-type switches, and the power to the flips flows through them. I filed them a little bit and Whirlwind is a superbeast now, I tell ya what.

have you tried that?
should I take some pics in the morning of our upper flipper wiring? it has a top right flip, just like BK2k.

EDIT: yeah, what stangbat said.

Hopefully these can help SC, these are from the Whirlwind upper right flip.

Hmmm....S%$^

pics won't load

Can someone with a BK2K take a pic of the Upper right flipper coil and the lower right flipper coil?

Here you go:

17072011831.jpg 17072011832.jpg 17072011839.jpg 17072011840.jpg

Wow, I didn't realize how different the flippers on these the two games were. Not sure mine would have helped now that I see it.

Oh well, way to save the day O-A

If the EOS switch is not working in the switch test then the problem is with the switch and or wiring to it not the coil.
Check the switch for power and ground. I think on that machine The switch should be closed when the flipper is at rest and open when the flipper is up.
Check ground wire for continuity.

It has been like this since I got the machine a year ago. The flippers have been working fine. It has had a hard life, as it was still out on route until I bought it so anything may have been done to it in the past to keep it working.

I've just had a shuffle around of pins today, and the BK2K has gone into storage in the garage. I can't do anything more to it at the moment, or get any more pictures. I'll give it a good check over when its set up again.

Hope you sort that top flipper out soon SC.

Just had a thought whilst looking at the schematics for BK2K. Are the connectors on the upper playfield interconnection board OK? They are on J1 & J2 pins 5 & 6. Those connectors tend to get hot & burn, especially on the GI circuits (it's one of the jobs I need to fix on mine). You may be suffering a voltage drop once you start drawing power through the top flipper coils.

I really don't know.
have you filed those flipper button switches yet?

edit: you sure those New cabinet switches are wired correctly?

Is the transistor that controls the hold part of the coil blown? That's what it sounds like to me. If you're not sure, take a pair of gator clips, clip one end on the transistor and one on the ground. If it fires then, you've got a blown transistor.

With System 11, there isn't a lot on the boards that can effect the flippers. And if there is a problem on the board, you'll most likely see issues for all the flippers.

There is no separate transistor to control the low power hold voltage. The hold voltage is always present, and comes into play when the EOS is opened and the low resistance of the high power coil is removed.

My only guess at this point is to check what type of coil you have. Is it by any chance a series wound coil instead of parallel wound?

On Pinrepair, System 11, Section 3h, the section titled "The CPU Board Flipper Relay K1", it mentions "transistor Q67 (2N4401) and a 7402 at U50 and a 7406 at U56, and ultimately the 6821 PIA at U10." However, if the transistor is bad, you'll have no flippers at all.

Glad to hear you got it fixed.

Good to hear that. My Whirlwind, although also a System 11b, isn't set up like that. It only has one EOS on the bottom flipper.

I had a problem like that on my CFTBL and it was a bad diode on the coil. I know it's a WPC game but...

Excellent, good to hear you got it figured out.

I was thinking the same thing when I saw O-As pics. Pretty weird

Great news SC, Now you can battle the Black Knight. I'm missing mine now it's in storage already!